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I was wondering if anyone knows what the head bolt torque is for a newer briggs 22hp v twin engine is. My repair book is older and doesn't mention the specs for this engine. The main difference is thar the head bolts are not the typical 1/2in bolts I usually deal with, they are smaller 3/8 bolts.

The engine number is: 44N677-0042-G1

Thanks for any help you can provide!

2. Install cylinder head assembly, Fig. 23.
a. Torque head bolts in sequence shown to 220 in.
lbs. (25.0 Nm).
3. Install push rods. Make sure push rods are inserted in
recess in tappets.
Note: Intake push rods are aluminum.

Just to comment on your repair information: I updated much of my small engine service data by going to Ebay and purchasing CDs to use in my laptop. I have quite a few that cover old and new models along with some for ATV's and Kawasaki mules I work on.

Um, missing a step. Need to lap the head and block area where the head gasket sits. 3 step bolt torque is kindly advised. Every head I've pulled after checking were never flat. Intek engine owners pay attention here. Those love to toss head gaskets.

slomo said:

Um, missing a step. Need to lap the head and block area where the head gasket sits. 3 step bolt torque is kindly advised. Every head I've pulled after checking were never flat. Intek engine owners pay attention here. Those love to toss head gaskets.

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So 18 foot pounds of torque in this case. Make sure to gradually tighten bolts in a sequence. Also, lap valves and remove carbon as needed. I always use copper spray on head gaskets.

Tiger Small Engine said:

remove carbon as needed.

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Right on right on......... All listed in everyone's engine manual as maintenance items.

Clean the cooling fins while you are there. Valve adjustments...... Turtle Wax on the deck.

Sorry for the late response, but thanks everyone for the input. I did clean the cooling fins. The head failed because of a bunch of debris packed into the fins. It ended up having a valve guide back out and bending the pushrods. Luckily it wasn't my mower but I was fixing it for a neighbor.

tkos115 said:

Sorry for the late response, but thanks everyone for the input. I did clean the cooling fins. The head failed because of a bunch of debris packed into the fins. It ended up having a valve guide back out and bending the pushrods. Luckily it wasn't my mower but I was fixing it for a neighbor.

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All caused by dirty slash clogged cooling fins.

bentrim said:

2. Install cylinder head assembly, Fig. 23.
a. Torque head bolts in sequence shown to 220 in.
lbs. (25.0 Nm).
3. Install push rods. Make sure push rods are inserted in
recess in tappets.
Note: Intake push rods are aluminum.

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Briggs changed the torque to 300 in/lb, but never updated the service manuals.

ILENGINE said:

Briggs changed the torque to 300 in/lb, but never updated the service manuals.

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Specifically is this for Intek engines, twins or??? That is 25ft lbs converted.

slomo said:

Specifically is this for Intek engines, twins or??? That is 25ft lbs converted.

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From what I am finding that torque spec maybe specific to the 44 series engines. Found a 40 series that is still showing the 220 in/lb but the 44 series is showing 300 in/lb. Also found that certain 21-28-31-33 series single inteks are 250 in/lb but other models are 220 in/lb and the OHV single service manual doesn't reflect that change either, but there is a APSI showing that change dated 2012 and the engine manual was supposed to be updated but shows the old information.

ILENGINE said:

Briggs changed the torque to 300 in/lb, but never updated the service manuals.

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Do you have a printed source for this information, or was it passed through a "grapevine" network? Was this on one particular v-twin engine design?

IL like me have dealer access to the Briggs info.

The APSI (advance product service info) # 87 has the changes for the 21-28-31-33 series. As for the 44 series in this thread we are referencing the Power Portal specs for this engine.

I have only posted the head torque spec. all other torques specs were deleted.

Thanks Star Tech,

Many of us have always worked with published manuals or CD copies and seldom see the updates that come along.

Auto Doc's said:

Thanks Star Tech,

Many of us have always worked with published manuals or CD copies and seldom see the updates that come along.

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And sometimes even the dealers don't get updated information as quickly as we should. Like the time I was looking for a parts diagram for a Poulan Pro pushmower in August that had been on the market since March. Had to call Husqvarna and the tech support person had to put me on hold get in the elevator from the 5th floor and go to the basement to pull the product build sheet to get the part number and then get back into the elevator back to the 5th floor to give me the part number.

Or the mower I was looking for a parts diagram that the only reference was in French from a Canadian website.

Try Russian....If wasn't a for translator program I would be in trouble.

IL, Isn't it fun to do this Day In and Day Out. I know drives me nuts at times. But the customer sometimes just don't understand how much of a rat race it can be working on lawn care or any other equipment. Even servicing dealers have problems at times.

No wonder sometimes a customer hears me scream just to relieve the tension. Better to let it out than blow a gasket.

Around my area, I'm "blessed" (cursed) with people racking up their credit cards to buy $5000.00 dollar mowers instead of maintaining or repairing the ones that they have.

It is seldom I even sell a decent used mower these days because everyone wants new.

When it comes to weed eaters, chainsaws and blowers, the parts just to repair them have gone through the roof. Most are now throwaway anyway

Junk brands and poor-quality name brands have flooded the market.

Or they insult you by offering low ball yard sales price for the equipment. The last riding mower I tried to sale for $500 which included a 90 day warranty that I had over $400 in new parts installed, the best offer was $125. When that happen I just quit restoring mowers for resale. Even a self propelled walk behind that I had for $75 was low balled at $20.

So I became a repair only shop.

A few people on here get upset with us for wanting model numbers and trying to give out the correct information, where they would be happen throwing out suggestions and let the customer decide if it is correct or not, but don't realize that the customer may not know enough to decifer correct information from incorrect information.

Some days I spend more time doing paperwork then actually repairing items. Dealing with service manuals that haven't been updated since 2008 but working on an engine that was newly released in 2018 and is not covered in the manual that they ask you to use. Here is an example the 28P777 uses 220 in/lb head torque the 31P777 uses 250 in/lb. Or looking for parts diagrams for items that have been sold for 6 months and needing a warranty part but the diagram doesn't exist. Of worse says the part number is NLA on a mower that was produced this year.

My favorite is dealing with a diagram that has an incorrect part number but the part number will actually fit and work for a period before causing issues. Had a customer a few years ago that had a craftsman with a 48 inch deck that called for a 1/2 width belt that was the correct length but would bottom out in the pulleys allowing slippage. Had to get the part number of the complete deck and then back reference that deck to another mower to find the correct 5/8 width belt for that mower.

StarTech said:

Or they insult you by offering low ball yard sales price for the equipment. The last riding mower I tried to sale for $500 which included a 90 day warranty that I had over $400 in new parts installed, the best offer was $125. When that happen I just quit restoring mowers for resale. Even a self propelled walk behind that I had for $75 was low balled at $20.

So I became a repair only shop.

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Same here. Quit trying to repair mower for sale. People being cheap and not wanting to pay asking price. And then will go to an auction and pay what would of been your asking price or more. Saw a Southland 20 inch non self propel pushmower from 2014 go for $79 at auction last month. Or even trying to sell the same product as the box store, And they will go from your shop to the box store and buy that product and then want you to do warranty work on it.

What gets me are the guys who pick up units at garage sales, auctions, and curb finds, then bring them to me to get running so they can resell it. They get mad at me when I tell them it would cost more to repair than it is worth. Now I’m the bad guy because they are out $$$ because of their own stupidity.

Rivets said:

What gets me are the guys who pick up units at garage sales, auctions, and curb finds, then bring them to me to get running so they can resell it. They get mad at me when I tell them it would cost more to repair than it is worth. Now I’m the bad guy because they are out $$$ because of their own stupidity.

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Buy a tiller at auction for $25 and then complain it will cost $75 to repair.

Exactly!!! My good customers call me a miracle worker, these guys call me stupid.