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Briggs 14hp IC not running right

#1

C

Chris_feldk

Hi all, I have a Briggs 14hp ic I just swapped on a mower, carb was junk and unrepairable unfortunately had to get a Chinese one. Anyways the motor won’t rev past 2300 rpm and has very poor throttle response, if you put it to idle then wide open, it just falls on its face until it finally picks up. Been dealing it with a week and it’s got me stumped. I’ve adjusted the valves, new spark plug and gapped it. Gapped the ignition coil and made sure it had fresh gas. The throttle plate on the carb stays wide open but is only running at about 2300 rpm, the governor never moves. Starting to thing maybe the valves aren’t seating properly or need new intake gaskets but If anyone had any ideas that would be great thanks.


#2

M

MowerNick

More than likely it is still the Chinese carb. 95 percent of those do not run right


#3

R

Rivets

If it came to me I would remove the carb and the remove the main jet and nozzle to make sure all orifaces are open. If you need more help posted back with all engine numbers, original carb number and replacement carb number. With those we can provide more help.


#4

C

Chris_feldk

I cleaned the all the orifaces and jets and still no luck. Probably a junk china carb. Ordered a oem Walbro. Will update when i get it and install it. Thank guys!


#5

Fish

Fish

Put up the Briggs model numbers, so we know what you have.


#6

F

Forest#2

Yep, post model type and code.

Manually move the throttle plate to the wide open [position.
This will normally bypass any governor control. If it then speeds up you will need to do a static governor adjust.
If that is a Twin make sure that both cylinders are producing power EQUALLY.


#7

F

Freddie21

Make sure you put in for a refund, or replacement, of that crap carb. All seller I have dealt with will provide one, or the other, and probably won't want the carb back as there's gas in it. They know what they're selling.


#8

F

Forest#2

As freddie21 says:
Make sure you put in for a refund, or replacement, of that crap carb. All seller I have dealt with will provide one, or the other, and probably won't want the carb back as there's gas in it. They know what they're selling.

If it came from Amazon they will usually issue a full refund after doing the on-line refund contact and may not want it back but if they do want it returned it's on them.

That return policy is the reason when I roll the dice on China crap carb's replacements I go to Amazon. I'm getting to where i can usually take two or three of them Nikki carbs and make one run correctly sometimes removing parts from a clone and installing into the real Nikki's.


#9

C

Chris_feldk

Yes it is a single cyl, i have the model number but when entered in my Briggs power portal on the model lookup it comes up as a 16hp so I'm not sure if the number is wrong or not. And yes i manually moved the throttle plate and still doesn't rev where it should.


#10

F

Forest#2

Post up the model, type and code for us?

Ignore what the HP says. (Briggs labeled hp of same engines how ever they want to and got sued for such)

If you use all the above info you will get on the correct page.


#11

D

Divot

I purchased a junk snapper riding mower for 75 bucks as a winter project many years ago . I had the same problem and went through about everything until I stumbled across a video and saw a guy (probably taryl fixes all) where he adjusted rpm’s by bending the plate that attached to the governor spring This was a Briggs 14 IC engine. I had exhausted every idea and this fixed it perfectly


#12

D

Denali94

Chris_feldk said:
had to get a Chinese one.
Click to expand...
Lordy you guys crack me up. 99% of you would not know where a part was made unless it was stamped on the part, the box or some other prominent location.


#13

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Denali94 said:
Lordy you guys crack me up. 99% of you would not know where a part was made unless it was stamped on the part, the box or some other prominent location.
Click to expand...
Quality control processes are generally different.


#14

D

Denali94

Scrubcadet10 said:
Quality control processes are generally different.
Click to expand...
Not disputing that issue. Just commenting that 99% of these folks could not identify the country of origin without some markings. And yet the flatware they use to feed their families is made offshore and they have never heard of Sherrill, New York.


#15

F

Forest#2

You say:
Ordered a oem Walbro. Will update when i get it and install it. Thank guys!

If you ordered a NEW replacement carb using the Walbro part number do not be surprised and get too depressed if you get a Nikki or even a Nikki clone, BECAUSE Nikki's are the replacements for thw Walbro's using the Walbro Briggs parts number.
Type in your part number in the search box on-line and look at the picture and most generally it's not a Walbro in the picture, but the replacement carb will most generally bolt on as a replacement as a generic clone.


#16

F

Freddie21

Here is a Walbro carb available on Amazon. I have ordered one to try soon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XD8JSJZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


#17

D

davis2

Denali94 said:
Not disputing that issue. Just commenting that 99% of these folks could not identify the country of origin without some markings. And yet the flatware they use to feed their families is made offshore and they have never heard of Sherrill, New York.
Click to expand...
I have. Used to live near there. I think someone bought the Oneida name, so they were Sherrill Mfg. last I knew.


#18

R

Rivets

Reported


#19

D

Denali94

davis2 said:
I have. Used to live near there. I think someone bought the Oneida name, so they were Sherrill Mfg. last I knew.
Click to expand...
Give that man a cigar. I too used to live near there. Yes, the Oneida name is gone, they are now Liberty Tabletop. Liberty Tabletop Flatware is made by Sherrill Manufacturing, the only flatware manufacturer in the U.S.A. And the only flatware used by my extended family.


#20

C

Chris_feldk

Carb came, it is genuine Walbro (has the logo and part numbers and Briggs stamp on it) and is made in Mexico not China. Threw it on as well as new intake o rings. Still runs like garbage and falls on its face anytime you pull it wide open and only getting up to 2200 Rpm and that’s with my finger holding the throttle wide open the governor never pulls it back. adjusted the valves again and still no luck. So at this point it still runs like garbage after a new gapped spark plug, valves adjusted, I’ve tried 4 different carbs adjusted the coil gap, new intake o rings and fuel filter. At this point im just throwing spaghetti at the wall and praying it sticks. I’m going to try a compression test next Or pull the head and see if something is wrong there or with the valves or valve seats.


#21

F

Freddie21

Try a governor static adjustment. loosen the clamp on the governor arm, hold the throttle all the way open, rotate the governor arm max CCW and tighten the clamp. Compression test may show the issue.


#22

F

Forest#2

We have people on this site that knows small engines in and out but we NEED to have the EXACT model, type and code from the top of the valve cover.

We have asked you several times for this info but it just falls on deaf ears.

Can you tell us why you cannot give up this info?????

Excuse me if I have overlooked you posting such already.


#23

C

Chris_feldk

Yeah i have it just kept forgetting to write it down. model is 283h07 Type 0197E1 Code is 0403087E
I pulled the head today and saw a crack by the intake port and thought that was the reason why is runs like crap so i took a spare head off a parts motor i had and cleaned it and lapped the valves. Then put it on this motor, and nothing changed still runs like garbage. Also has 75psi of compression. But i did notice though it looks like the intake valve doesn't open very far so maybe that's why? I'm not sure but this has got me stumped and ready to cut my losses


#24

C

Chris_feldk

Freddie21 said:
Try a governor static adjustment. loosen the clamp on the governor arm, hold the throttle all the way open, rotate the governor arm max CCW and tighten the clamp. Compression test may show the issue.
Click to expand...
I would but the governor isn't the issue it never moves the throttle. It stays wide open and is never pulled back.


#25

C

Chris_feldk

Here is a link to a video of it running and what it does. (Click here) it needs to have the choke on then you can put it wide open then shut the choke off but it still is running way too rough and slow.


#26

F

Forest#2

You eliminated quite a bit of stuff.

What I would think about doing is check the valve lift. compare the exhaust push rod left to the intake. Compare the lift of each to each other. Look for as much as 1/4 inch difference in lift height, I've seen one lobe loose enough lift on those 28 engines, especially the intake and the compression release still operate but not get up to speed and sometimes detect by ear a sputter through the carb throat.
(why, I've seen a lobe wear down to where lift would not be correct)
You can find exact specs for the lift in a search.

You say you have adjusted both valves to around .005 but the lift on the intake looks suspicious.
If you find the valve lift ok check the flywheel key.
In your first post it appears as though you have never seen this motor run good. (you got it as a used motor to swap onto a mower)

Have you checked the magneto air gap as being .010-,012 and swapped the ignition magneto and also checked with the proper spark plug?
I've also seen ignition modules do strange things.

Do not operate that engine over about 15 seconds with the air cowling off, they will overheat fast.


#27

I

ILENGINE

Forest#2 said:
You eliminated quite a bit of stuff.

What I would think about doing is check the valve lift. compare the exhaust push rod left to the intake. Compare the lift of each to each other. Look for as much as 1/4 inch difference in lift height, I've seen one lobe loose enough lift on those 28 engines, especially the intake and the compression release still operate but not get up to speed and sometimes detect by ear a sputter through the carb throat.
(why, I've seen a lobe wear down to where lift would not be correct)
You can find exact specs for the lift in a search.

You say you have adjusted both valves to around .005 but the lift on the intake looks suspicious.
If you find the valve lift ok check the flywheel key.
In your first post it appears as though you have never seen this motor run good. (you got it as a used motor to swap onto a mower)

Have you checked the magneto air gap as being .010-,012 and swapped the ignition magneto and also checked with the proper spark plug?
I've also seen ignition modules do strange things.

Do not operate that engine over about 15 seconds with the air cowling off, they will overheat fast.
Click to expand...
You are correct. Lobe worn on the camshaft will limit valve lift and will act just like a governor and limit the engine rpm even with the governor spring holding the throttle plate wide open. The one I had in the shop limited the engine rpm to around 2000 rpm.


#28

C

Chris_feldk

Just check the flywheel key today, it’s not sheered and yes I only had the shroud off for the 20 seconds to show the carbs throttle movement. I did adjust the valves (intake .004 and exhaust .006) and did see that the intakes lift seems suspect and maybe that’s why it runs like this. And yes i gapped the magneto at 10 thousands and verified it is indeed the correct plug. I will find a spare coil off of one of my parts motors and swap them out. And the engine only gets to about 2000 rpm so this seems like what my issue is. Do you think I can take the crankcase vent off and stick a borescope in there to look at the cam or should I just pull the motor and open it up? Thanks guys I appreciate it.


#29

I

ILENGINE

Chris_feldk said:
Just check the flywheel key today, it’s not sheered and yes I only had the shroud off for the 20 seconds to show the carbs throttle movement. I did adjust the valves (intake .004 and exhaust .006) and did see that the intakes lift seems suspect and maybe that’s why it runs like this. And yes i gapped the magneto at 10 thousands and verified it is indeed the correct plug. I will find a spare coil off of one of my parts motors and swap them out. And the engine only gets to about 2000 rpm so this seems like what my issue is. Do you think I can take the crankcase vent off and stick a borescope in there to look at the cam or should I just pull the motor and open it up? Thanks guys I appreciate it.
Click to expand...
The intake and exhaust valves should have the same amount of lift. So if the intake is opening half as far and/or half as long as the exhaust then you have a camshaft lobe wear issue.

Just make sure to check the condition of the push rods. The push rods can collapse which will also effect valve lift height and duration


#30

C

Chris_feldk

Swapped out the intake rod with one that looks ok, and reset valve lash and the valve lift looks ok, runs a little better.. but still running about the same rpm. I'm most likely going to bet its the cam at this point.


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