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So my daughter’s estranged husband was home one weekend, hopped on the Craftsman riding mower, ran for a half hour or so then it just quit. He figured out the fuse blew but after changing the fuse and turning the key on the fuse immediately blows again. He has since left, I live 5 hours away. Any thoughts about what might be causing a new fuse to blow that quickly? or what I might suggest she try?

Best guess is that a wire's insulation rubbed against something and simply shorted to ground. If mine, first thing I'd check would be under the seat.

Cusser said:

Best guess is that a wire's insulation rubbed against something and simply shorted to ground. If mine, first thing I'd check would be under the seat.

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thanks, I’ll take a look next time I visit.

A multimeter will be your best friend when troubleshooting this problem. If your daughter can get you the model number from under the seat we might be able to find you a wiring diagram to make it easier to troubleshoot.

ssn said:

So my daughter’s estranged husband was home one weekend, hopped on the Craftsman riding mower, ran for a half hour or so then it just quit. He figured out the fuse blew but after changing the fuse and turning the key on the fuse immediately blows again. He has since left, I live 5 hours away. Any thoughts about what might be causing a new fuse to blow that quickly? or what I might suggest she try?

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Hello S.,

For future reference:

It is best to provide us with the product identification label information of the machine. This reduces a lot of wild guessing. If you have a problem involving the engine, we will also need the numbers off of the engine as well.

The problem you describe usually involves the ignition switch that shorted internally.

It is best to pull the original one out to look at it closely at it before buying a new one. Not all switches look or function the same. There are tiny letters located next to each pin on the back of the switch that have to be identified and matched. I get most of my switched through eBay and they have always worked properly.

As mentioned earlier, be sure to check the seat switch wiring for any damage that can cause a short.

I wouldn’t go after the ignition switch before doing some electrical troubleshooting. Making any component assumptions could lead to added expense when not needed. Problem could be anywhere in the wiring and components between the switch and the solenoid. I agree it could be the switch, but could also be seat switch, brake switch, PTO switch, or wiring, depending on the model.