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Blade on toro 20113 wont tighten - crank moving

#1

T

trooper1954

Hi guys,
Just mowing my lawn when the blade came loose...tried to tighten it but the crank is turning before it gets tight...any idea how to resolve this?
Thanks.


#2

R

Rivets

Check to see if the blade adapter is turning freely on the crankshaft. It should be tight to the shaft, if it turns separately from the shaft, the built in key has sheared and the adapter will need to be replaced.


#3

T

trooper1954

Check to see if the blade adapter is turning freely on the crankshaft. It should be tight to the shaft, if it turns separately from the shaft, the built in key has sheared and the adapter will need to be replaced.

Thanks Rivets for the reply.....here's the toro parts diagram but I'm not sure what you mean by blade adapter?

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#4

R

Rivets

Part number 5


#5

T

trooper1954

Yes..Next question is how do I remove it when I cannot undo the nut?
Thanks


#6

T

trooper1954

Rivets,
My apologies...Ichecked again this morning and the blade driver assembly does NOT turn on the crank...just unable to tighten or loosen the blade. Is it possible the thread may be stripped, and if so, I guess I'll need a new blade driver assembly anyway??
Any ideas as to how to remove the blade nut....maybe some heat or an air impact??
Thanks.


#7

R

Rivets

If the bolt just spins, then the threads are stripped in the end of the crankshaft. This is not good. You will have to get it out somehow. If it is stripped, you should be able to grab it with a vicegrip and work it out.


#8

Parkmower

Parkmower

Did you use a 2x4 or something to block the blade?


#9

exotion

exotion

Strap wrench on the blade adapter or vice grip on it and carefully work the nut out. If the blade adapter has sheared will need to be replaced or if the hole is stripped will need to replace


#10

T

trooper1954

HI guys,

Thank for all the help....I eventually got the bolt out with an impact...and just as Rivets said, the blade driver assembly had sheared the key....got a new one and all is well. The bolt was not stripped so that was a bonus. Also Rivets....a few weeks ago I had an issue with this same mower not starting.....you were right again....it needed a new coil!! Anyhow all is well and thanks everyone....I can now cut my knee high grass!! :laughing:


#11

R

Rivets

Wow, I got lucky twice. Glad to see it worked out for you. Don't spread it around, just dumb luck. I hope you tighten that bolt good, or you may be replacing the adapter again.


#12

exotion

exotion

Wow, I got lucky twice. Glad to see it worked out for you. Don't spread it around, just dumb luck. I hope you tighten that bolt good, or you may be replacing the adapter again.

It's almost like you might know a thing or two :) lol just playing


#13

T

trooper1954

Hi Guys,
Yes.....you guessed it.....another problem. I replaced the blade drive, but when I went to start the mower, I couldn't even pull the starter rope. Got back underneath and backed off the blade bolt...crank moves. Tighten up the blade nut....crank frozen. I see in the parts diagram there's a spacer at the top of the blade adapter...I thought this was still there from the old one....could this be causing the problem? When I removed the new drive assembly, it seems like the top of the assembly has marked the underside of the deck like it was too tight and needs something there to allow it to spin?
As usual, any and all help appreciated.


#14

R

Rivets

You need to put that spacer inside the new adapter, if you don't the adapter will ride too high and bind against the crankcase, causing your new problem.


#15

T

trooper1954

Thanks Rivets....found the old spacer in the bottom of the broken blade hub...should I re-use or get a new one?


#16

R

Rivets

You can reuse it with no problems.


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