Blade not stopping after un engaging / Brakes / Shifting

[JMcGarva]

Hello I have a 2005 craftsman Model 1000. I got 3 questions.

One, how can I fix the blades. When I engage the blades they work fine. But when I go to shut them off, nothing happens. I mean, you can hear it try and slow down but the only way it does is if you turn off the motor.

Two, I have the the 5 speed manual with N and R. Sometimes I cant get the shiftier to move any. As in, say I need to back up, and its stuck in forward I have to move alittle forward to force the handle to change gears. I have a feeling the brake/clutch isnt being pressed far enough. (Since I have to have the brake/clutch pressed in order to change gears or start the motor etc) But I have it pressed as far as it goes..

Which leads me to question number 3. How can I get my brakes back. If I'm moving in gear 5, It takes me about 20 feet to stop. Thats un safe as can be. And being I have a drive way that has a hill to it, I roll all the way down and cant stop, even if I'm only going a few mphs. Now, the parking brake works fine and you cant even push the lawn mower.

I have a feeling, most of these questions can be fixed with a belt adjustment.. If being said, whats the best way to raise the lawn mower to get up neath. I have always drove the mower up on ramps. But Im trying to find a way to maybe get all 4 wheels off the ground or some sort... with out a lift

Thanks for your help
John

 

[ILENGINE]

Could you please get us the model number from under the seat. that will help us narrow down who made your mower, and what we are looking at, before we can give sound troubleshooting advice.

 

[JMcGarva]

Here ya go

 

[ILENGINE]

The deck problem. Look under the right side of the mower and find the deck brake arm that touches the spindle pulley. follow that arm back under the mower, and the other end will have a roller on it. That roller contacts a idler arm bracket, and when that bracket pivots to the rear when the engagement cable pulls it back. Now look where that roller contacts the idler arm. You may see what looks like a notch worn into the bracket. That notch will act like a detent and prevent the deck from disengaging.

I have found the only way to fix the issue for any length of time is to replace both the brake arm and the idler arm. If you don't replace the brake arm, it will wear a new notch into the idler arm before the end of the summer.

The brake problem could be due to grease contamination of the brake pads, The brake is located under the right side of the tranny in front of the axle. There is also a nut that holds a flat piece of metal with a slight twist were that nut is. That is the adjustment nut for the brakes. You may want to play with that turning it in slightly to see if that helps the brakes..

The last thing with the shifting. Does the mower shift OK when the engine isn't running. If the shift problem goes away then most likely the belt isn't disengaging all the way. The rod that goes from the clutch/brake pedal to the idler tension arm should have a way to turn the rod to allow for the belt to disengage further. If the shift problem is present even when the mower is off, then you probably have a linkage binding problem, and may need to spray some penetrating oil around where the shift rod goes into the tranny.

 

[JMcGarva]

The deck problem. Look under the right side of the mower and find the deck brake arm that touches the spindle pulley. follow that arm back under the mower, and the other end will have a roller on it. That roller contacts a idler arm bracket, and when that bracket pivots to the rear when the engagement cable pulls it back. Now look where that roller contacts the idler arm. You may see what looks like a notch worn into the bracket. That notch will act like a detent and prevent the deck from disengaging.

I have found the only way to fix the issue for any length of time is to replace both the brake arm and the idler arm. If you don't replace the brake arm, it will wear a new notch into the idler arm before the end of the summer.

The brake problem could be due to grease contamination of the brake pads, The brake is located under the right side of the tranny in front of the axle. There is also a nut that holds a flat piece of metal with a slight twist were that nut is. That is the adjustment nut for the brakes. You may want to play with that turning it in slightly to see if that helps the brakes..

The last thing with the shifting. Does the mower shift OK when the engine isn't running. If the shift problem goes away then most likely the belt isn't disengaging all the way. The rod that goes from the clutch/brake pedal to the idler tension arm should have a way to turn the rod to allow for the belt to disengage further. If the shift problem is present even when the mower is off, then you probably have a linkage binding problem, and may need to spray some penetrating oil around where the shift rod goes into the tranny.

Dang thats sounds like a lot of work. Any idea how much it will be to fix? I might as well bring it to a shop. I do know they charge 12.50 an hours for labor.. Any kinds of rough est. of how much? Thanks

 

[ILENGINE]

Is that $12.50 per hour a misprint. Around here the labor rate is $60-100 per hour. I would say you are looking at 2-4 hours labor plus parts.

 

[JMcGarva]

Well, I just brought the shop a tire to fix. And he said, its 12.50 an hour for labor plus the tube to fit it. If its 60 an hour, they can keep the tire, I will buy a new one for 30 dollars.

 

[Mikel1]

$12.50 an hour for a shop, Wow!
Now what's the deal with this tire,lol?

 

[JMcGarva]

$12.50 an hour for a shop, Wow!
Now what's the deal with this tire,lol?

That's what I was told. But the valve stem just pulled from the rim. Easy fix