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I need some help from a good mechanic.

I have a 61" Great Dane Chariot with a Kawasaki 25hp Engine # FH21VB09436. The lower bearing on the clutch that engages the blades has locked up. I removed the bolt that holds the clutch on & had trouble getting the clutch off, but finally got the bottom of the clutch off. There was a lot of rust on the surface where the bearing fit. The bearing was locked up and I cannot get the top part of the clutch to slop off. I suppose it is rusted on also. I tried heating the top part that fits on the pulley (or crankshaft, I can't tell exactly what it fits on) with oxy/acety torch, but had no success. If I could just replace the bearing so I could dis-engage the clutch, I would be back in business,

I don't know why it has rusted so bad, I try to just wipe the mower off with wet rag without wetting it down with water hose.

Please help me get the clutch off or let me know if the bearing can be replaced. Thanks

Most of the bearings in pto clutches are an oddball size so you will need to replace the entire clutch. If you put any heat on the coil area, it would be damaged anyway at this point, due to melting the epoxy that protects the wire coil. Penetrating and a puller may be the best avenue for removal.

ILENGINE said:

Most of the bearings in pto clutches are an oddball size so you will need to replace the entire clutch. If you put any heat on the coil area, it would be damaged anyway at this point, due to melting the epoxy that protects the wire coil. Penetrating and a puller may be the best avenue for removal.

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Thanks ILENGINE,
I didn't heat coil area or use very much heat, and only on the round piece where the bearing fits onto (it's about 1ｼ" diameter). I have several pullers and tried to use one, but the top piece of the clutch is round and puller has nothing to hold on to. Is the top clutch piece splined? I don't mind buying a new clutch, but I thought that if I could replace the bearing, I would not need to remove the top of the clutch. There seems to be nothing wrong with it except I cannot stop the blades from turning. I may have to weld 3 small pieces onto the big round top piece to give the puller something to hold on to.

graydog said:

[...]
The bearing was locked up and I cannot get the top part of the clutch to slop off. I suppose it is rusted on also. I tried heating the top part that fits on the pulley (or crankshaft, I can't tell exactly what it fits on) with oxy/acety torch, but had no success. If I could just replace the bearing so I could dis-engage the clutch, I would be back in business,

I don't know why it has rusted so bad, I try to just wipe the mower off with wet rag without wetting it down with water hose.

Please help me get the clutch off or let me know if the bearing can be replaced. Thanks

Click to expand...

When you do get the components separated you will undesratnd why applied heat wont work.

Time, an active penatration oil, and light taps using a small ballpein and
bluntnose 1/2" punch.
Repeat a set of short processes over the day and the clutch topend will fall off.
Do not use air hammers.

My experience has been these are designed as a component replacement.
New clutch when trouble comes.
However I have dissembled and repaired some,
"ILLENGINE" writes the bearings are oddball sizes.
They are.... poorly fitted also.
You will need to do some fine filing in fitting a new bearing.

From what I have seen the corrosion is down to bad design, the bearing housing
holds water and dust. A heavy dew or even an occasional splash is enough to sit
in the bearing, starting the corrosion. I always run the machine after a cleandown.

The spline is a cast-in-situ at manufacture type, again poorly designed and fitted.
Assemble all components using a grade molybond grease ("NeverSeize").

Trust the post may help some...

KK

Thanks, KK. I have a new clutch ordered. I'll keep oiling & tapping until it gets here. :laughing: I appreciate your help.

graydog said:

Thanks, KK. I have a new clutch ordered. I'll keep oiling & tapping until it gets here. :laughing: I appreciate your help.

Click to expand...

No problemo... my first took as long as "Bye Bye American Pie" took to play, I got lucky. The next I could have walked to China an' bought the assembly home in less time.
It **is** all luck of the draw.

Cheers...

KK, I cannot thank you enough. I did as you said and the clutch fell off within one minute. You saved me 2 x 60 mile round trips to shop & at least $100.

I forgot a problem I had back in 1965. I was replacing the tie rod ends on a 1960 Volkswagon. I pried and beat with a big hammer for an hour with no success. I had a VW mechanic friend come over. He started tapping with a tiny ball peen while prying and the tapered tie rod bolt fell out.

Here is a bottom view of the 3 pieces of the clutch, for anyone interested. If you have anything with a clutch like this or a 1960 VW, you'd better file KK's solution for future reference.

Click on this thumbnail to enlarge