Hi, hoping someone can help track this down. I just put a new battery in my 2001 268H because the old one wouldn't hold a charge. Turns out, the alternator doesn't seem to be working. The battery light is on now but the odd thing is, it will turn over, start and run fine when started cold but after running it now for 2 hours, there is no power from the switch to the solenoid...:confused3: The battery still measures a little over 12 volts but nothing is getting to the starter. Is this multiple issues, or a bad switch ?
Try this troubleshoot procedure. My guess is you have have a loose connection.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I thought this had all started last week when the battery lost a cell and the starter only hummed, but after thinking about it, the starter has acted strange in the past too. It will jump in and out while holding the key in start on a hot restart.
Battery is new, connections clean and tight. All fuses and their holders are clean. 12.9 volts at the positive terminal on the starter.
No power to the start terminal on solenoid. All connections before it are clean and tight.
No power at ground terminal on solenoid.
The only thing that happens when the key is turned to start is one or more of the relays click. I tried removing them one at a time to see which it was but there seems to be 2. The ignition switch does send power thru the brown wire in start position.
I long ago bypassed the seat and clutch/brake safety switches. The deck clutch is still functional.
This is while it is hot from running. After it cooled for about 90 minutes, the starter would try to run but was jumping in and out, like a circuit breaker was not holding. Once it is completely cooled, it works as normal.
Don't understand part of your reply. You say you have voltage at the starter, but no voltage at the solenoid? Is that correct? I can't picture how this can be. You also have relays in this system, which could be causing problems. I do not post relay testing procedures, as it is very easy to burn out a good one if you mistakenly hit the wrong terminals. Learned this for experience. At This website you can get a free manual which may help.
The positive cable from the battery to starter solenoid has 12.9 volts.
The blue wire at the solenoid does not get power to activate the starter when the switch is in the start position.
Yes, it seems to be a relay that is not working, as I hear a click when I turn the key but no power to the start circuit (blue wire).
I have the wiring diagram in the manual but it doesn't seem to indicate the relays at all or their function. I'll check the link you posted.
Thanks
#7
EngineMan
Can you not post up the wiring diagram, a relay is only a switch, you need to find out if (a) relay getting power, if so is it working.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
The electrical system in the 260 Series Lawn and Garden Tractors differ between Gear Drive and Hydrostatic Drive models. Following is a brief explanation.
Gear Drive Models
Two things happen when turning the ignition switch to the “START” position. (1) Current flows from the ignition switch through the PTO (Power Take Off) switch, brake switch, neutral switch, seat switch, and activates the interlock relay, which sends voltage to the coil of the starter solenoid. This solenoid actuates and allows voltage to the starter motor of the engine. (2) At the same time, with the ignition in the “START”position, current will flow to the kill relay, which activates and takes the engine magneto ground wire off of ground to allow the engine to have spark
Then post up the wiring diagram, and lets have a look..! read about the testing, and do the test to all four of the relays, come back with your findings.
Long shot here. Auto relays appear sealed but I have found it fairly easy to pop the plastic housings off to examine the relay. Since they click there are points and windings inside. (Excluding solid state relays) After a look , pop them back together. If moisture is a concern try RTV along the parting edge. Might save you "no return" purchase dollars.
While the light is on, I checked the voltage
Charging voltage at idle is 13.26
..............at full throttle is 14.15
I know it's charging, because the battery stays up. It may be overcharging but the test was right after start up. I'll check the voltage after I run it for an hour tomorrow and see if it is still high. That could be why the battery light comes on a few minutes after start up and maybe needs a regulator ??
I used my remote start switch to bypass the relays and it spins right over.
I ordered 4 new relays. Not gonna waste time testing $6 worth of relays. Got way to many other things to do.
If that doesn't fix the starting issue, I will add on a start button.
Have you checked the low voltage module. Black box, about 2" square, mounted on the fire wall. It has a large electrical plug connected to it. If these connections are not clean they will cause the battery light to stay on.
Have you checked the low voltage module. Black box, about 2" square, mounted on the fire wall. It has a large electrical plug connected to it. If these connections are not clean they will cause the battery light to stay on.
Yes, the connection is clean and tight.
Is the voltage regulator just above the module with 2 small blue cubes on it ? I don't see a reference to a regulator in the wiring diagram.
I didn't end up running it today. Hopefully tomorrow I can check the voltage after fully warmed up.
Go to parts, Type in model 72087, select any model year, then select manuals. Download the manual with 66 pages. It should come up. Let me know if it doesn't.
#17
EngineMan
Yes that linked worked...! downloaded the manual, but there is no wiring diagram in it:thumbsup:
