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Bagger OMGX25572 issue

#1

C

CajunMan89

I finally decided to get a bagger since I have so much hay in my yard. For some reason, it would only pick up a few hand-fulls of grass when I used it for the first time. I ended up needing repairs on my LA115, and told the repair man about my issue. He looked at the blades that came with the bagger and was surprised...they packed mulching blades with the bagger! After he got me the correct high-lift blades, everything worked great to pick up my leaves. However, when I started cutting at the beginning of the season, my bagger seems to mulch or only want to pick up grass in certain areas of my yard.

The engine is at full throttle, and I'm driving slowly. The mower and bagger system is clean. My blades are sharp and not worn. My belt is good, pullies and spindles are good also. My yard is dry. The only thing I could see causing the problem would be that my property is very hilly...but that doesn't make sense to me because I would think the air-flow would not be affected by that. However, I'm not a lawn-care expert and could be wrong. I've seen yards like mine before, and their's is nice and free of hay. What could be causing my bagger to not work correctly?


#2



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
I finally decided to get a bagger since I have so much hay in my yard. For some reason, it would only pick up a few hand-fulls of grass when I used it for the first time. I ended up needing repairs on my LA115, and told the repair man about my issue. He looked at the blades that came with the bagger and was surprised...they packed mulching blades with the bagger! After he got me the correct high-lift blades, everything worked great to pick up my leaves. However, when I started cutting at the beginning of the season, my bagger seems to mulch or only want to pick up grass in certain areas of my yard.

The engine is at full throttle, and I'm driving slowly. The mower and bagger system is clean. My blades are sharp and not worn. My belt is good, pullies and spindles are good also. My yard is dry. The only thing I could see causing the problem would be that my property is very hilly...but that doesn't make sense to me because I would think the air-flow would not be affected by that. However, I'm not a lawn-care expert and could be wrong. I've seen yards like mine before, and their's is nice and free of hay. What could be causing my bagger to not work correctly?
Click to expand...

The main issue I usually ran into here at the shop is that the customer forgets to lift the little black metal flap when installing the chute. Make sure you lift both the big plastic deflector as well as the smaller black metal flap. That will open the hole on the deck twice as wide.


#3

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
The main issue I usually ran into here at the shop is that the customer forgets to lift the little black metal flap when installing the chute. Make sure you lift both the big plastic deflector as well as the smaller black metal flap. That will open the hole on the deck twice as wide.
Click to expand...

This is as far as I can get them to open without holding them back with a rope or bungee cord. I open the plastic one, hold it open, then open the metal one and turn it until it gets in the notch that lets it stay open on its own. Here is a pic of the chute, as well as my hopper. I assume I put the screen of the hopper in correctly?

20190816_122148[1].jpg

20190816_122213[1].jpg


#4



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
This is as far as I can get them to open without holding them back with a rope or bungee cord. I open the plastic one, hold it open, then open the metal one and turn it until it gets in the notch that lets it stay open on its own. Here is a pic of the chute, as well as my hopper. I assume I put the screen of the hopper in correctly?

View attachment 45224

View attachment 45225
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Thanks for the pictures. Looks like you have it attached correctly. I'm assuming you installed the bottom of the chute into the channel on the deck. If so, the bagger should work. You say you have hay in your yard. About how much grass are you cutting off? I have found these baggers work the best if you're only taking off 1-1.5 inches of grass. If the grass gets too tall, the bagger will work, but the chute may clog up more often. Also, if you have alot of dry dead grass already laying on top of your yard, the dry grass can create static electricity in the plastic chute, which will slow the clippings down as they go up the chute, and contribute to the clogging problem.


#5

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
Thanks for the pictures. Looks like you have it attached correctly. I'm assuming you installed the bottom of the chute into the channel on the deck. If so, the bagger should work. You say you have hay in your yard. About how much grass are you cutting off? I have found these baggers work the best if you're only taking off 1-1.5 inches of grass. If the grass gets too tall, the bagger will work, but the chute may clog up more often. Also, if you have alot of dry dead grass already laying on top of your yard, the dry grass can create static electricity in the plastic chute, which will slow the clippings down as they go up the chute, and contribute to the clogging problem.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, it's inserted in the channel of the deck. The only thing is, throughout the last 10 years or so since I've purchased the mower, the deck has gotten a dent or two on the edge above the hook toward the rear of the discharge area (where the accessory strap secures to). I noticed it, bent it back, then that caused my blades to jam...so I dented it back like it was so my blades wouldn't jam. I wouldn't think that would be causing a suction problem, would it?

As to how much grass I'm cutting off, I always set my level at 2. The left-over hay is usually evenly spread in my field. Sometimes, I cut the opposite direction to push the clippings toward the middle, then pick them up with the bagger. But, that only works in the rest of my yard; never works in my field. I just can't understand how it works very well in some areas, and not at all in others.


#6



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
Yes sir, it's inserted in the channel of the deck. The only thing is, throughout the last 10 years or so since I've purchased the mower, the deck has gotten a dent or two on the edge above the hook toward the rear of the discharge area (where the accessory strap secures to). I noticed it, bent it back, then that caused my blades to jam...so I dented it back like it was so my blades wouldn't jam. I wouldn't think that would be causing a suction problem, would it?

As to how much grass I'm cutting off, I always set my level at 2. The left-over hay is usually evenly spread in my field. Sometimes, I cut the opposite direction to push the clippings toward the middle, then pick them up with the bagger. But, that only works in the rest of my yard; never works in my field. I just can't understand how it works very well in some areas, and not at all in others.
Click to expand...

When you set your level at 2, I am curious as to what height you are actually cutting. To find out, you would have to measure from the floor to your blade tip. For example, I had a customer a month ago who was setting his level at 3, but was actually cutting at 1.5 inches. I had to adjust the height of his deck so he was cutting at 3 inches when the level was set at 3. I usually recommend cutting about 3 inches. This is usually the height where the system works the best. My suspicion is that if you are cutting too low, there may not be enough air flow going up the chute to get the grass all the way up it. This depends on how thick or wet your grass is, or how much thatch buildup you have, etc. The blades have to suck air in under the deck in order to stand the grass up to cut it. That same air then helps propel the grass up the chute. If you are too low, the airflow could be getting choked off. You can also try powerwashing your grass bags. The air escapes through them, and if the fabric gets plugged up, that can contribute as well.


#7

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
When you set your level at 2, I am curious as to what height you are actually cutting. To find out, you would have to measure from the floor to your blade tip. For example, I had a customer a month ago who was setting his level at 3, but was actually cutting at 1.5 inches. I had to adjust the height of his deck so he was cutting at 3 inches when the level was set at 3. I usually recommend cutting about 3 inches. This is usually the height where the system works the best. My suspicion is that if you are cutting too low, there may not be enough air flow going up the chute to get the grass all the way up it. This depends on how thick or wet your grass is, or how much thatch buildup you have, etc. The blades have to suck air in under the deck in order to stand the grass up to cut it. That same air then helps propel the grass up the chute. If you are too low, the airflow could be getting choked off. You can also try powerwashing your grass bags. The air escapes through them, and if the fabric gets plugged up, that can contribute as well.
Click to expand...

Sorry it's taken a while to get back. Every time I had a chance to get a measurement, it would rain LOL! Luckily, I beat it today, but not by much.

With my deck set at 2, the lowest edge of my blade, the end, measures at 1 1/2 inches. The highest edge where it curves up is at 2 1/4 inches.
Should I try cutting at a higher level, then lower afterwards?

I thought I remembered in my bagger's manual that it said not to get the bags wet, but after reading through it again today, I didn't see that mentioned. I usually blow out the bags with my air compressor, but perhaps pressure washing them would be better. I'll just have to make sure to hang them up to thoroughly dry.


#8



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
Sorry it's taken a while to get back. Every time I had a chance to get a measurement, it would rain LOL! Luckily, I beat it today, but not by much.

With my deck set at 2, the lowest edge of my blade, the end, measures at 1 1/2 inches. The highest edge where it curves up is at 2 1/4 inches.
Should I try cutting at a higher level, then lower afterwards?

I thought I remembered in my bagger's manual that it said not to get the bags wet, but after reading through it again today, I didn't see that mentioned. I usually blow out the bags with my air compressor, but perhaps pressure washing them would be better. I'll just have to make sure to hang them up to thoroughly dry.
Click to expand...

If you are mowing at 1 1/2 inches, that is definitely going to be a problem. Your deck is too low to the ground and is not going to perform well with a bagger.
It is usually recommended to mow between 3 and 3 1/2 inches.
Based on your information above, you may have to set your height lever at 3 1/2 in order to mow at 3 inches.
You can verify that by measuring the blade tips again with the handle in the 3 1/2 position.
If you are at least close to the 3 inch height, go mow and see how it does.


#9

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
If you are mowing at 1 1/2 inches, that is definitely going to be a problem. Your deck is too low to the ground and is not going to perform well with a bagger.
It is usually recommended to mow between 3 and 3 1/2 inches.
Based on your information above, you may have to set your height lever at 3 1/2 in order to mow at 3 inches.
You can verify that by measuring the blade tips again with the handle in the 3 1/2 position.
If you are at least close to the 3 inch height, go mow and see how it does.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I'm hoping that it will be dry enough for me to cut by mid week, next week. My grass is about 8 inches tall in some areas with all the rain!

In the meantime, since I'm more of a visual person, is there any Youtube video that you'd recommend showing me how to correctly level my deck so that the height lever would be accurate?


#10



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
Thanks for the tip! I'm hoping that it will be dry enough for me to cut by mid week, next week. My grass is about 8 inches tall in some areas with all the rain!

In the meantime, since I'm more of a visual person, is there any Youtube video that you'd recommend showing me how to correctly level my deck so that the height lever would be accurate?
Click to expand...

You're welcome! There are youtube videos out there, but none that I like from a professional standpoint. I will include a link at the bottom of a video that will get you on the right track. The guy in the video does it correctly, but doesn't explain the procedure thoroughly enough for someone just learning to do it.
To adjust the deck is simple:
1. Buy a deck leveling tool as referenced in the video. They are fairly cheap. (There are guys out there that use pieces of wood and measure off the deck shell. Do not do this! It is not accurate!)
2. Set your tire pressures. 12-14psi in front, 10-12psi in rear.
3. Park machine on a level surface and set your lift height handle at the 3 position.
4. Check your side to side level. Reach under the deck and turn the blade until it is pointing side to side. Using the deck leveling tool, measure from the ground to the outermost blade tip. Do this for the right and left blade. The measurement should be 3 inches, plus or minus 1/16th inch. (the naked eye won't be able to tell if you're off by 1/16th inch)
5. Locate the adjusters mentioned in the video, and adjust your deck up to 3 inches.
6. For the front to back level, we will just use the right blade since we can access it easier. Point the right blade front to back. Adjust the front link as shown in the video to set your front to back level. You will want the measurement at the front tip to be 1/8-1/4 inch LOWER than the rear tip as explained in the video. This ensures the front tip does all the work as the blade is spinning. If it were perfectly level, both tips would be cutting, thus creating twice the load and overworking the machine.

https://youtu.be/pigBRailqTY


#11

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
You're welcome! There are youtube videos out there, but none that I like from a professional standpoint. I will include a link at the bottom of a video that will get you on the right track. The guy in the video does it correctly, but doesn't explain the procedure thoroughly enough for someone just learning to do it.
To adjust the deck is simple:
1. Buy a deck leveling tool as referenced in the video. They are fairly cheap. (There are guys out there that use pieces of wood and measure off the deck shell. Do not do this! It is not accurate!)
2. Set your tire pressures. 12-14psi in front, 10-12psi in rear.
3. Park machine on a level surface and set your lift height handle at the 3 position.
4. Check your side to side level. Reach under the deck and turn the blade until it is pointing side to side. Using the deck leveling tool, measure from the ground to the outermost blade tip. Do this for the right and left blade. The measurement should be 3 inches, plus or minus 1/16th inch. (the naked eye won't be able to tell if you're off by 1/16th inch)
5. Locate the adjusters mentioned in the video, and adjust your deck up to 3 inches.
6. For the front to back level, we will just use the right blade since we can access it easier. Point the right blade front to back. Adjust the front link as shown in the video to set your front to back level. You will want the measurement at the front tip to be 1/8-1/4 inch LOWER than the rear tip as explained in the video. This ensures the front tip does all the work as the blade is spinning. If it were perfectly level, both tips would be cutting, thus creating twice the load and overworking the machine.

https://youtu.be/pigBRailqTY
Click to expand...


Awesome video! Yes, I've seen some with people using wood, never thought that was a good idea!

I figure that this would be the best price for a level, since my local dealer would probably be higher. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JOHN-D...924603?hash=item48a4d2d03b:g:mpcAAOSwEZdaCwu7

If this is the correct level, I'll post back as soon as it comes in and I get it leveled.

Thanks again!


#12



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
Awesome video! Yes, I've seen some with people using wood, never thought that was a good idea!

I figure that this would be the best price for a level, since my local dealer would probably be higher. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JOHN-D...924603?hash=item48a4d2d03b:g:mpcAAOSwEZdaCwu7

If this is the correct level, I'll post back as soon as it comes in and I get it leveled.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Yes, that is the correct one. Let me know how you make out!


#13

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
Yes, that is the correct one. Let me know how you make out!
Click to expand...

Got the level in today. I hope to get it leveled this week. I'll post again if I end up having issues, but don't foresee any.

I experimented with cutting at level 3 for an actual cut of 2.5 inches above ground. Cutting at an actual 3 inches seemed too tall for my grass, and because it grows so fast, I'd be cutting again sooner than usual.

Here are pictures I took after cutting my field. The grass was at least 8 inches tall in some places, and I guess because of that, it was still a bit wet. I had to pass over it a second time to pick it up. But as you can see from my pile, I think the bagger is doing it's job! What do you think?

P1020469.jpg P1020468.jpg


Thanks again for all your help! Sad that the bagger instructions don't tell you anything about the deck height for using these! I was able to pick up my leaves at a lower level than that, and assumed I could do the same with grass. I couldn't even understand the assembly instructions; luckily I was able to find a Youtube video for help!


#14

N

normanthums

Multiple design issues bagging. Hi lift blades are a must. Because of design there is no way for deck to get air from above unlike spindles of AYP so if you are cutting short in very dense grass that becomes a problem. The design of the chute has high points that restrict flow. And not particularly your problem is the basket design. A previous mower had solid plastic tubs which allowed easy emptying. Also having to suck all air from below cause it to suck more dirt and in sand extra wear.


#15

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
Yes, that is the correct one. Let me know how you make out!
Click to expand...


I think the leveling was a success. It only step cuts on areas that are horribly unlevel on my property...everywhere else looks great!

20190926_182132[1].jpg


#16



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
I think the leveling was a success. It only step cuts on areas that are horribly unlevel on my property...everywhere else looks great!

View attachment 45760
Click to expand...

Excellent. Thanks for letting us know!


#17

C

CajunMan89

Will1988 said:
Excellent. Thanks for letting us know!
Click to expand...

You're welcome; thanks a million for all the help!

This thought just came to me with all that leveling I had to do. How do I know if my scalp wheels are set to the correct level? If they need to be lowered, I figure that may help the quality of my cut as well.


#18



Deleted member 97405

CajunMan89 said:
You're welcome; thanks a million for all the help!

This thought just came to me with all that leveling I had to do. How do I know if my scalp wheels are set to the correct level? If they need to be lowered, I figure that may help the quality of my cut as well.
Click to expand...

Youre welcome! The rule of thumb for gauge wheels is to have them approximately 1/2 inch off the ground (or make sure you can fit your finger between the wheel and the ground) when the deck is lowered to the desired cutting height.
Their only job is to keep the deck from pitching too much on uneven ground or to prevent the blades from scalping.
Some folks get a misconception and think those little wheels need to be on the ground.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
If you run those wheels on the ground, the deck will bounce around the whole time you are mowing because those little wheels will find every divot in your yard!
Over time, this will wear out all your lift linkage, bend your deck (and maybe break the wheel off) and make it almost impossible to ever level your deck properly.
The deck is made to hang from the tractor, therefore, it needs no support from the ground, except to prevent scalping.
Hope this helps!


#19

tom3

tom3

Always wondered how to actually adjust those deck wheels. Thanks for the info!


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