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Bad Boy 27hp Briggs wont start
#1
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
i cant get my badboy to start, turned it off one day, next day, NOTHIN all it does is click< battery has 12.5 vdc< all safety circuits have been jumped to bypass bad plugs, tried a new relay in every slot, replaced starter soleniod, checked 25amp fuse, and still NOTHIN... HELP PLEASE?????
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
This is a troubleshooting procedure for a tractor, but should be able to pinpoint your problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#3
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
Thanks for the info! this is what i need, just a little instruction , i was checking voltage with my Fluke meter, but i didnt know in what order to go. I'll follow these instructions, record voltage readings and get back with ya! i also when i jump the soleniod to the battery it turns over but will not fire, im to my wits end wiyh this project thanks for your info and i will get back with
This is a troubleshooting procedure for a tractor, but should be able to pinpoint your problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#4
EngineMan
EngineMan
Check out the key switch..!
#6
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
okay here is the deal! the solenoid on my motor is diff from what you have in these instructions so i cant check voltage like you ask, i have 2 large terms on top, one side direct to the battery, the other side to the starter , one small term with a white wire that goes to the harness with all the safety switches that have been bypassed and one orange 14 awg fused wire from the direct power side of the soleniod to the wiring harness and come out at the ingage blade switch, but this orange wire is 18awg now, not 14awg. Now something has happen thats different from the past! LOL!! i was checking my key switch by using a jumper at its term and i blew the 25 amp fuse in the orange wire, i replaced the fuseand reconnected the key switch and turned the key on, and now one of the 5 relays is humming like an alarm, WHAT THE HECK!!!
This is a troubleshooting procedure for a tractor, but should be able to pinpoint your problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
#7
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
You have a three wire terminal, as described in step three. If you don't get voltage at this point, you probably have a bad relay. When you tried jumping the switch, I suspect you shorted another relay.
#8
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
Well before i got that brillant brain storm and blew the 25amp fuse, i bought one new relay and tried it in all 5 positions and nothing changed so i thought crap its something else, the mower shop said bypass the solenoid and jump power to your starter, i did and it turned over but wouldnt fire so i thought the solenoid was bad so i replaced it, and still nothin! Well im gonna go back and read over the instructions again carefully without my A D D this time , Ha Ha and try again tomorrow! And by the way Thanks!!!!!
You have a three wire terminal, as described in step three. If you don't get voltage at this point, you probably have a bad relay. When you tried jumping the switch, I suspect you shorted another relay.
#9
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
okay today i stopped that relay from buzzing, apparently when i discconnected my Neg term to my battery so i could change out the solenoid i forgot to reconnect a neg wire from the harness to the battery, i put it back and the relay stopped buzzing, Okay back to the drawing board or your list of tests,
1) Battery terms are clean and the inline fuse is good, and voltage is 12.49 vdc
2) one large post on solenoid has 12.49 vdc
3) small term on solenoid has no voltage when safety devices are jumped out and key in the start position, also cleaned
mower body to bare metal to insure proper ground because of only 3 terms on soleniod
4) The other large term on solenoid has no voltage when safety devices are jumped out and
key is in start position
5) No power at starter when key is in start postion
6) check ground circuit back to battery, 12.49 vdc
this is what i came up with today when i followed the tests
Thanks, Norm
1) Battery terms are clean and the inline fuse is good, and voltage is 12.49 vdc
2) one large post on solenoid has 12.49 vdc
3) small term on solenoid has no voltage when safety devices are jumped out and key in the start position, also cleaned
mower body to bare metal to insure proper ground because of only 3 terms on soleniod
4) The other large term on solenoid has no voltage when safety devices are jumped out and
key is in start position
5) No power at starter when key is in start postion
6) check ground circuit back to battery, 12.49 vdc
this is what i came up with today when i followed the tests
Thanks, Norm
#10
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
If you have no voltage in step 3 and you are positive that all safety switches are jumped properly, then I would say your key switch is bad. You can test the key switch after removal by checking continuity between the "B" terminal and the "S" terminal with the key turned to start, you should have continuity. If you have continuity across the switch, check continuity between the female "S" terminal on the switch plug and the small terminal on the solenoid. If you get no continuity, you then have to find the open between those two points. Patience is at a premium now.
#11
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
Okay i have tone between "B" and "S" on the key switch so...its good! But nothing between female "S" and the small terminal on the solenoid, Oh JOY!!!!!
The only other safety switch i can think of that i have not jumped out is the PTO, but there is no removable plug to jump, but when i engage and disengage the PTO or the blades i should say, i can hear it swithing back and forth, so i "assume" its working properly? oh well its late! thanks Pal
The only other safety switch i can think of that i have not jumped out is the PTO, but there is no removable plug to jump, but when i engage and disengage the PTO or the blades i should say, i can hear it swithing back and forth, so i "assume" its working properly? oh well its late! thanks Pal
#12
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
okay throwing in the towel!! Sorry, but i dont have the time and my grass is knee high, thanks for your help
#13
W
wildwest
W
wildwest
okay! i didnt throw in the towel because i couldn bring myself to paying some outragous repair bill,
You told me there was a open somewhere between the key switch and the small post on the solenoid
you were right, Although i had each safety device plug jumped, there was one of the plugs i jumped that was broken inside
and i never knew it, so therefor the curcuit was not complete. So i cut that plug off, twisted the two wires together
and that "BADBOY" fired up!!! Happy Days are here again!!!!!
again thanks for your help "Rivets"
You told me there was a open somewhere between the key switch and the small post on the solenoid
you were right, Although i had each safety device plug jumped, there was one of the plugs i jumped that was broken inside
and i never knew it, so therefor the curcuit was not complete. So i cut that plug off, twisted the two wires together
and that "BADBOY" fired up!!! Happy Days are here again!!!!!
again thanks for your help "Rivets"
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
How many hours did it take. My guess is 2.5. Broken wires in plugs are probably the hardest to find. Congratulations on having the patience to get through it. I know what it takes. Remember step 4??
#15
B
bamadirtrider
I am having the same problem with my BadBoy. I had it before and found a broken wire at one of the handle safety switches. I have just started trouble shooting this time but I had a question: My battery reads 12.34 volts. That should at least make it turn over right? I did try to jump it off with no luck.
Here is what I have done:
1) Cleaned the ground surfaces. No start
2) Cleaned the battery terminals. No start
3) Checked the switch between the B & S terminals: switch has continuity when turned to crank position.
4) Checked B wire (White) from switch to solenoid: continuity
5) Checked wires to both handle switches & seat: OK
6) Then disconnected each switch & jumped it out. No start.
7) Checked the voltage at the solenoid terminal from the battery: 12.34V
8) Checked voltage at the white wire on solenoid while trying to crank: No voltage. --> Seems to indicate a bad switch, but I checked: 3 above.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I like tinkering to find the problem . . . but with the rain we've been having and other priorities at the moment I'd just as soon get er fired up ASAP! I can hear the grass growing now . . . and I have about 9 acres I keep mowed.
Thanks again for any and all help.
B
bamadirtrider
How many hours did it take. My guess is 2.5. Broken wires in plugs are probably the hardest to find. Congratulations on having the patience to get through it. I know what it takes. Remember step 4??
I am having the same problem with my BadBoy. I had it before and found a broken wire at one of the handle safety switches. I have just started trouble shooting this time but I had a question: My battery reads 12.34 volts. That should at least make it turn over right? I did try to jump it off with no luck.
Here is what I have done:
1) Cleaned the ground surfaces. No start
2) Cleaned the battery terminals. No start
3) Checked the switch between the B & S terminals: switch has continuity when turned to crank position.
4) Checked B wire (White) from switch to solenoid: continuity
5) Checked wires to both handle switches & seat: OK
6) Then disconnected each switch & jumped it out. No start.
7) Checked the voltage at the solenoid terminal from the battery: 12.34V
8) Checked voltage at the white wire on solenoid while trying to crank: No voltage. --> Seems to indicate a bad switch, but I checked: 3 above.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I like tinkering to find the problem . . . but with the rain we've been having and other priorities at the moment I'd just as soon get er fired up ASAP! I can hear the grass growing now . . . and I have about 9 acres I keep mowed.
Thanks again for any and all help.
#16
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Ok, let's start with the procedure. In the steps listed you are checking voltage not continuity. Second, none of these tests are done with the safety switches jumped. Have you check voltage at the B terminal on the key switch? If you have no voltage there, you will get no voltage out the S terminal. Remember, check everything, verify everything, and ASSUME NOTHING.
#18
B
bamadirtrider
B
bamadirtrider
Problem solved. Wire was broken inside the terminal. Thanks Rivets for the help.
#19
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I got lucky again. Motorman, this procedure was put together by LawnRanger and I just twicked it a bit. He is the brains behind it, not me.