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Greetings Ya'll,

Our Husqvarana riding mower Md# YTH18542 motor began smoking while under load, as well as blowing oil out of the fill tube. This happened two weeks after the Warranty went out on the Mower!

There are two B & S Motors listed as replacements for the original motor being a Md# 33S877-0019-G1 and a Md# 33S877-0043.

The Md# 33S877-0043 appears to be a newer, "revised version" of the Md# 33S877-0019-G1, & I can buy it for far less $$$ than the "0019-G1".

Has anybody run in to any problems with the Md# 33S877-0043?

First, if it is only two weeks out of warranty I would be going a GOOD authorized Briggs repair dealer and see if Briggs will authorize repair. To me it sounds like a blown head gasket, which will definitely rule out replacing the engine, but repairing the problem. Even if you have to repair the engine, far cheaper than replacing. Just my opinion for what it is worth.

Greetings Rivets,

I tried two local "Repair Shops", that weren't "GOOD" apparently, & they shut me down over the warranty, & that was back in May 2025. Since that time, I fanatically kept the oil level up to where it is supposed to be, & would give the Mower a rest for about a 1/2 hour, & then finish the Mowing. The weird part about this was that it would not always belch smoke, & there was never any "Rattle" that suggested problems with the valves, etc.

I made several calls to other Repair Shops, over in the next County, & they were all to busy to take a quick look at it, & they basically told me that they would not be able to work on it for 3-4 weeks, and that just looking at it would cost at least $150.00, & The repair could go in to several hundred dollars more, with all labor & parts having only a 90 day warranty.

That's why I decided to keep our lawn mowed, until I could find a replacement motor.

That all "came to head", last thursday, for the motor just stopped running, & after about 5 minutes, I was able to restart it, & drive it back to the house. The weird part about that, was it appeared to have full power, but it did smoke somewhat.

But I Believe that the motor is now "In Hospice".

The 2 basic engines are the same but assembled with different carburetors and intake systems.

Yours likely just need the head pulled, then leveled/ resurfaced properly and the head gasket replaced. These were bad about the head gasket failing on the pushrod side and blowing compression pressure back into the crankcase and sucking oil into the combustion chamber.

If you remove the top air shroud on yours, it has likely had excess grass and dirt blocking the cooling fins, or a huge mouse nest is hiding under there. Air cooled engines need good airflow from the flywheel fan.

I recently pulled a top air shroud off of a similar engine and it was stuffed full hay bale string and cotton batting. It took hours to clean all that debris out and remove all the heat shields for a thorough cleaning.

There are lots of good videos about repairing this engine design.

I would contact Briggs customer service and explain the problem. Only costs you a little time no matter what they say. Being a service tech for more than 35 years I’m pleasantly surprised at the answers I get more than once. Try this number, stay calm and explain everything you’ve done to resolve the problem. 1-800-356-632

Greetings Auto Doc's and Rivets,

Auto Doc's, If I'm understanding correctly, is "Leveling/resurfacing" the head the act of grinding/polishing it, to certain specifications? Kinda what a machine shop would do to an automobile rotor? And, You'll have to forgive me if I'm mislabeling the engine part, but wouldn't the "Engine Block" that the "Head" attaches to, also have to be "Leveled & Resurfaced"?

"These were bad about the head gasket failing on the pushrod side and blowing compression pressure back into the crankcase and sucking oil into the combustion chamber". ----- Is there a better "Head Gasket", other than the Factory OEM, that would prevent this from happening? I'm actually pondering on rebuilding this engine, & having it as a back-up, due to the "Tariff/Economy Situation".

As far as the "Air Shroud Removal", I removed it, & cleaned the area each season, when I changed the Spark plug, Oil Filter, & Oil.

Rivets,.... With my knowing of the Oil Spray, & Smoking when under a heavy load, & zealously maintaining the oil level while operating the Mower, and with consideration towards the "Warranty" having expired now by several months,... What do You think that B & G Tech would do?

Ok, don’t waste your time calling Briggs, probably a bad idea anyway. You came here asking for help and the symptoms you described would lead a good mechanic to start with a blown head gasket. Doc and I both are leading you to repair the engine, which would be far cheaper than replacing. You can go any route you would like, but I’m backing out of this thread, as your replies indicate that you think you are smarter than us and want to question our suggestions. We’ve both seen this before and right now I don’t have the patience to deal with this. Good Luck.

Hello HR.

The head is the first to warp from excess heat. That is not uncommon on this design.

To re true the head gasket surface I use a section of tempered glass or a glass tabletop (when my wife is not around) and come 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper. I sit the head on the sandpaper (head gasket surface down) and lightly scrub the head back and forth on the sandpaper.

I stop and check every 10-20 strokes to see the progress. It is easy to tell what is being sanded and what is not.

Once the entire surface looks uniform, it is ready to be reinstalled with a new head gasket.

Make sure to reset the valve clearances.

Rivets said:

Ok, don’t waste your time calling Briggs, probably a bad idea anyway. You came here asking for help and the symptoms you described would lead a good mechanic to start with a blown head gasket. Doc and I both are leading you to repair the engine, which would be far cheaper than replacing. You can go any route you would like, but I’m backing out of this thread, as your replies indicate that you think you are smarter than us and want to question our suggestions. We’ve both seen this before and right now I don’t have the patience to deal with this. Good Luck.

Click to expand...

Rivets, I Apologize if My Asking so many questions, as well as stating what I've done has has offended You Sir.

My field of work is HVAC/ Refrigeration/Electrical/Plumbing Repair, & Restaurant Equipment, & I Assure You Sir, I've always, beginning as a "Helper" back in 1974,.... Always Asked many Questions regarding any Service Work, or Installation. I've done that in every School, Seminar, & even in College that I attended. And I ask many Questions of All Equipment, & Parts Suppliers,.... So that I have Knowledge of what I am expected to do.

And Sir,..... I Never Once Intended For You To Think That I Am Smarter Than You.

Again Sir,..... I Apologize for having Offended You, but if if that is not good for you,.... Then "Good Luck" to You also.

As a retired instructor I’ve answered more questions than you’ve ever asked. My problem is with those who are so fixated on what they want, they disregard the answers they are given. You say you’re probably going to tear it down, why not remove the head and see if we are right, blown head gasket. Much cheaper to replace than buying new. Are you telling me that your customers would do the same on equipment you could repair for them. That’s the reason I’m getting out of this thread, as I’ve said, I’ve lost my patience with those who are so hard headed in their ways.

Auto Doc's said:

Hello HR.

The head is the first to warp from excess heat. That is not uncommon on this design.

To re true the head gasket surface I use a section of tempered glass or a glass tabletop (when my wife is not around) and come 400 grit wet-dry sandpaper. I sit the head on the sandpaper (head gasket surface down) and lightly scrub the head back and forth on the sandpaper.

I stop and check every 10-20 strokes to see the progress. It is easy to tell what is being sanded and what is not.

Once the entire surface looks uniform, it is ready to be reinstalled with a new head gasket.

Make sure to reset the valve clearances.

Click to expand...

Greetings Auto Doc's,

To re true the head gasket surface I use a section of tempered glass or a glass tabletop (when my wife is not around)

Click to expand...

I've upset My Wife a few times by rebuilding an Oil Burner Gun, &/or other equipment on the Kitchen Table.

If I'm understanding correctly then "Re-surfacing" is basically "Hand sanding the Head" to an even surface. Cool!
Is the "Head Gasket" also called the "Cylinder head Gasket"?

Rivets, I haven't disregarded any answer that You, or Auto Doc's has given me, & I am absolutely appreciate the help that You both have given.

With that said,....I was Trained to not just throw a part away, but to tear it down, & find out why it Broke/Quit. Furthermore,.... Rebuilding the original motor, will let me have a back up motor waiting for the time when the New Motor quits,... Which I would also repair, as long as The economy, & Situation in the World would permit that.

"Are you telling me that your customers would do the same on equipment you could repair for them"

Do Not Twist My Words Sir, I Did Not State Any Such Thing!.

I have ALWAYS presented Repairing Equipment, over Replacement, For More Than 30 Years. And I have Always asked My Customers whose Equipment Warranties, have expired whether they wanted to continue repairing the Equipment, or replace it with Equipment that was more efficient, & with Part & Labor Warranties.

I had a "Well off", Customer that had a Wiiliamson Oil furnace, manufactured in 1956.I kept her furnace properly operating up to 2002, when she died of a Heart Attack.,... Her Children sold them home.

I've been called in to give a Bid on replacing Furnaces, Air Conditioners, etc., many times, where the Customer was told by a Con-man that their unit could not be repaired, so they wanted a bid from me. I asked, each time, what was wrong with their unit, & if I could take a look at it. Many times, all that was needed was a simple repair, such as replacing Fuses, a Contractor, Capacitors, Thermocouple etc!! I've even replaced Heat Exchangers, & Compressors

And, I've had, & have Customers, that once the Warranty expires, they replace their Equipment, which was/is their Choice.

Perhaps You should "Get out of this thread",& Sir,.... Look in th' mirror for a definition of being "Hard Headed".

HusqvarnaRider said:

Greetings Auto Doc's,



I've upset My Wife a few times by rebuilding an Oil Burner Gun, &/or other equipment on the Kitchen Table.

If I'm understanding correctly then "Re-surfacing" is basically "Hand sanding the Head" to an even surface. Cool!
Is the "Head Gasket" also called the "Cylinder head Gasket"?

Click to expand...

Hello HR,

Yes, it is known as the "cylinder head gasket". Yes, you are sanding the head to true up the cylinder head gasket mounting surface so it will properly seal again.

I specify a tempered glass table because it will provide a true level surface. Most work benches and wood tables are distorted, so they would not be a good idea to use.

On a side note: Make sure you wash the entire cylinder head down really well with Dawn dish soap and water when the sanding process is finished. Rinse with clear water. Then make sure to blow everything nice and dry really well.

There should be some good videos online that cover the reassembly process. The cylinder head bolt torque is crucial for a successful repair.

There are also manuals available online to help with the finer details.

If you need further help, just ask.

New head bolts?
Thanks,
Doug Lee
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