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I am rebuilding a B&S engine model 256417-1134-E2 code 9711193A on a John deer Generator model 550GE 5500 Watts .
I need to know is, how do I make the timing with the 2 counter balances gears located in the Crankcase cover ? There is no timing mark on the balance gears but there is like a rivet on each one of them, that I could use as a timing reference maybe. The Crank Shaft as usual as the timing mark that I time with the timing mark of the Cam Gear.
If someone as the work shop manual ,I would appreciate.
Thank you.

This should be what you are looking for.

StarTech said:

This should be what you are looking for.

View attachment 67305

Click to expand...

Thank you for the information.
Do you have the service manual for this engine or these information like I need the tork and valve clearance, piston ring clearance ,ETC, to put back the engine back together.

I am rebuilding a B&S engine model 256417-1134-E2 code 9711193A on a John deer Generator model 550GE 5500 Watts .
The connecting rod made a 2 inches square hole in the casing but I found a use casing on the internet but I had to hone the replacement cylinder, but my original piston standard size and rings are in very good condition.
The Cylinder book Spect are 3.4365 to 3.4375 and after honing my replacement cylinder casing I have a range from 3.4430 and 3.4435 inc and the ring gap is at .016 in to .018 in. The Spect call for Max .035 on the rings
The spect call for .003 out of round and I am at .002 and the cylinder size limit is .005 inch.

So, do you think that the engine would work OK. or do i have to replace the piston and rings to .010 Oversize witch is making the repair a lot more expensive!!

You will find that the 499288 oversize (0.010) is not available. Briggs several years ago drop everything other standard and 0.020 over.

You can run it at the current it just the life will be shorter due to being near max limits for a standard piston and rings.

One question I do have however and you didn't mention is what is the taper looks like. I suspect when you check that you find you need to go to 0.020 over.

StarTech, the taper mesurements TOP to BOTTOM are: from front to back of cylinder the taper is .007 inch and from side to side is .0025 inch
What do you think ?

Personally I would oversize to .020 over using a rigid hone. That would make the cylinder out spec for standard size. Using a rigid hone you will be at nearly .010 over once it cleans up and with only .020 available I would go ahead and OS to the .020.

but let's see what other think..

StarTech, I decide to go like you said and I order the .020 oversize piston assembly.
I will be using that tool, it as a range of 2-6.7in.
See picture
Thank you.

That is a flex hone and will only make the out round and taper conditions worst it will only found already problems. Yes will oversize but the current condition would just be magnified.

What you should using is a Lisle 15000 series hone with the correct racks and stones. Here is example of the tool.

Lisle 15000 series rigid hone

Now this the reason why many DIYer don't attempt a resize as a one time job is expensive tool wise. Matter of fact my Lisle 15000 and 16000 hones haven't even been out their boxes in the last 5 years.

And here is what I have in the tool box here as I have need any of the other racks and stones.



Now it take a low speed 1/2" drive variable speed drill as you don't want to hone at a speed any higher 300 rpms. The engine must bolted down as thee will be a lot torque develop during the honing process. And don't try honing one handed as the drill will spin and slam you against a wall or broken something important like you arm.

On top that the honing will take a good amount time; not a five minute job.

StarTEch, Well, I cannot spend that kind of money to repair that engine, so I will go slowly with my tool and do my best. Wish me good lock HA! HA!
Thank you.

Now you know why most small engine never get a true rebuild but you are wish good luck with your project.

Some the equipment the professional shops have are required equipment to even be a dealer. Now of course I am an independent shop owner so I can pick and choose what I need and can afford.

Right now I am debating getting the Kawasaki EFI test equipment as it is near a $1000 and I did take a pass on the CamAm package for now. Even the Briggs EFI package is $275 which basically software and a cable.

I do only 1 or 2 complete engine rebuilt a year, but I can take 2 maybe 3 days to do the honing.
It is fun for me.
I will let you know it go with my honing.

StarTech said:

Now you know why most small engine never get a true rebuild but you are wish good luck with your project.

Some the equipment the professional shops have are required equipment to even be a dealer. Now of course I am an independent shop owner so I can pick and choose what I need and can afford.

Right now I am debating getting the Kawasaki EFI test equipment as it is near a $1000 and I did take a pass on the CamAm package for now. Even the Briggs EFI package is $275 which basically software and a cable.

Click to expand...

Like I told you Star Tech, I would let you know how it went for honing my cylinder,
It took me over 40 hrs to make it good with in .002 but I had to use home made tools + the standard one to make it.
The engine now is running good.