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I need to find a carb kit or a replacement carb. The engine will not run constant. It just oscillates,/hunts/surges. I cant find any identying data on the carb. I have had the gen since new

Carb for a 8 hp briggs doesn't tell us anything. How about supplying the model number of the engine which could be located on the blower housing or the ohv cover. and possibly the model number of the generator so we can narrow down your possible engine options.

Model194412 Type 1114-01 Code 92102110 Homelite Gen EHRL4400HD

Complete carb is 390323 Over $200 and the carb repair kit is 398235 superceding to 394693

I just rebuilt one of those carbs last week. Unless the throttle shaft is worn out the carb is easily rebuilt. The big mistake people make is not removing the fuel tube at the high speed jet. You have to remove the high speed adjustment needle assy then there is a tube you have to remove with a good screwdriver before you can remove the 3 screws and separate the carb. These carb are known for leaking. When you put in a new fuel tube crank it fairly tight then back a turn. Do this a half dozen times then seat it fairly tight and it will usually seat it fuel tight.

Note here a good straight sided hollow grind flat tip is needed and not the common flat tip screw driver or you will strip out the nozzle. This prevents climb out. I use those 1/4 hex bits and modify as needed. Sometime only need a little of the hex knocked off, other times further mods are needed.

As said the upper and lower sections can't be easily separated; unless, the nozzle is removed.

Also be aware many after market kits have mis-threaded parts. It is best to go with the OEM rebuild (repair) carburetor kit on this one.

One trick to get the nozzle to seat properly is to grind most of the threads off the old nozzle. While using fine valve grinding compound use the old nozzle to polish the seat. You only want to grind enough of the threads off so they don't catch and still keep the nozzle centered.

I use the kit from stens.

How to no if its a OEM kit if I don,t know who made the carb. I can,t find a marking on it no where. I know its the original because I bought it new.

Take it apart before buying any parts, getting that jet out without screwing up the carb is the main thing to focus on. Many times you can go through it and only needing gaskets, and inlet needle. Get the correct screwdriver, that is a must.

The carb and carb kit will be in a red and white box that says "Briggs and Stratten".
But see if you can take the carb apart before getting any parts.

If the engine is surging and not leaking gas you can remove the main jet adjustment needle assy (1/2" wrench) and as mentioned use the proper fitting hollow ground screwdriver and remove the fuel tube and clean it. And see if that fixes it.

Cleaned, rebuilt and ready to bolt back on.

Not surging but trouble isno start either. The carb was the cleanest I,ve ever torn apart. I still cleaned with cleaner and blew out all passages. Reassembled with original parts. Turned on fuel. No Leaks.. Checked oil level ok. gave it a couple pulls nothing not even a pop. Sprayed start juice down plug. Nothing no pop. Tells me no spark. Is it possible for the oil level switch be the issue. I,m tired time for bed Thanks Jim

Take a look at this link and see if you see your carb listed.
This might give you an idea how to work on the carb without ruining it.
I sometimes can just use a warm water and clean a carb and use a spray can carb cleaner to clean the passages.

Just a heads up about replacing the carb. Most generally generator carbs have a different choke system and a regular carb won't fit correctly and sometimes you have to use your old chole linkages on the new carb.

That BRIGGS engine has a model, type and code on it.
Post this info and the Name and model of the generator if you want us to give you some logical info?

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

Addition: I NOW see that you have a no start issue

Attach a spark plug to the ignition wire and ground the plug good and see if it has spark. If no spark disconnect the low oil sensor and or the kill wire going to the OFF switch.

Post up the model, type and code of the engine. That is a very old model carb indicating you have a old model engine.
Older model 8 hp briggs used both points and later went to a electronic magnetron ign system. (electronic magneto) and the point system is easily converted to the newer ignition system usually.

Strange that removing and re-installing the carb caused a no spark or no run issue.
Apparently something you done wrong when re-installing the carb??????????

StarTech said:

Note here a good straight sided hollow grind flat tip is needed and not the common flat tip screw driver or you will strip out the nozzle. This prevents climb out. I use those 1/4 hex bits and modify as needed. Sometime only need a little of the hex knocked off, other times further mods are needed.

As said the upper and lower sections can't be easily separated; unless, the nozzle is removed.

Also be aware many after market kits have mis-threaded parts. It is best to go with the OEM rebuild (repair) carburetor kit on this one.

One trick to get the nozzle to seat properly is to grind most of the threads off the old nozzle. While using fine valve grinding compound use the old nozzle to polish the seat. You only want to grind enough of the threads off so they don't catch and still keep the nozzle centered.

Click to expand...

StarTech is talking about gunsmith specific flat blade screwdrivers. Google them up.

Don't use any flat blade out of the tool box as stated.

Like I said Not even a pop when start attempted? Even sprayed fluid down the spark plug hole. How could I loose spark with just a carb removal. Please no more screwdriver talk. Will disconnecting the oil level switch plug wires allow it to start? Will ddiconnecting the start stop switch allow it to start? It has magnetron Ignition system when it was manufactured.

I disconnected both oil level and the on/off switch. I haven,t tried it yet because while looking around some more I found a very small diameter 3 inch long spring thats around the governor link disconnected on both ends. ??? I can,t remember removing it only the metal link itself. I can,t figure out where it hooks back up on either end. I would like to find out where it goes before another start attempt. Does that have anything to do with ignition?? Help again