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b&s 5hp cutting out

#1

benali

benali

My 130200 b&s 5hp has started cutting out. The mower is fine when cold but once it gets up to temp especially lately as the weather is warmer, as soon as you release the clutch and load is put on the engine it cuts out.
I've done all the basics, ie new plug, cleaned filters, cleaned carb, oil level, fuel ok etc which all looks ok.
Generally, the mower has always only really worked with choke at halfway. Choke off position has always been problematic and caused stalling. But now it stalls all the time especially as it gets hot.
It seems fine with engine revving (no load), but as soon as the load is applied it stalls.
Can anyone offer any advice here, please?

Picture1.jpgPicture2.jpg


#2

S

seattlepioneer

I'm no Xpert, so I'm just thinking through possible causes for this kind of issue.

Sounds to me like the equipment is running lean due to some kind of defect. That would explain why you always needed some choke to get it to work, and if the original problem has been getting worse over time. The lean fuel condition would explain the limited power and the reason why it's stalling out.

I just had a B&S engine that wouldn't run ---seemed like a fuel supply issue. I spent a lot of time cleaning carbs, cleaning fuel tank, replacing fuel line only to discover that the plastic tube carrying the air fuel mixture from the output of the carb to the fuel/air port on the engine was broken. That created a lean fuel situation so that the engine wouldn't run.

I mention that to illustrate that you may need a careful inspection of the entire fuel supply system for the mower. You probably had a defect originally that has gotten worse ----but that might make it easier to observe a failed part or defect.

I also recently found a failing gasket to the carb, allowing air to leak into the carb and causing a lean fuel condition.

My experience as a professional furnace repairman was that I could cast an eye over a piece of failing equipment and see far more possible defects to check out than a DIYer would be able to spot. I'm a DIYer now when I work on small engines, so I need to take a lot more time to carefully examine the equipment because I lack the experience to pick up weaknesses or defects easily and rapidly.

So when you get some more possible ideas on what the problem might be, I'm guessing you may need to spend a few hours communing with your equipment before spotting the defect causing the problem.


#3

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

You could have a failing ignition coil.


#4

benali

benali

You could have a failing ignition coil.
Yes, this crossed my mind. Quite cheap to buy I think.
Stupid question, how would I test this?
Also, looks a bit awkward to get to on this engine.


#5

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

You have to remove the engine shroud. A bit of a pain on that engine. Take pics of the throttle linkages. You need an inli e spark tester you can see while engine is running. Watch it when engine is running poorly and see if spark is weak or stops entirely.


#6

benali

benali

Engine runs pretty well until it gets hot, so good chance ignition breakdown is the fault, so probably just replace it.
Are these coils pretty universal, mine is i/c 5hp model 130200, 132200.


#7

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Need all the engine numbers. It looks to me like that is different than the old 13xxxx engines.


#8

StarTech

StarTech

If you would post the actual model and type numbers would help instead trying to get info on a generic number as I can part of the model number on the valve cover but can't clearly read it.

First it does like you had the wrong jet all the long on that carburetor as you had to half choke. These engines tend to run off the idle fuel circuits until loaded so you may also not the carburetor fully cleaned. On top it does sounds like you may have developed an ignition problem.


#9

benali

benali

That's the engine number I think

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#10

benali

benali

It seems a little corrosion on coil and armature, so think I'll clean it all first and try again. Is the slight corrosion going to be part of the problem?
Also, what should the gap be, please?
Thanks!Picture1.jpgPicture2.jpg


#11

benali

benali

So, I've cleaned this all up, nice and shiny now!
What should the gap be set at, please?


#12

S

slomo

That surface rust, magnetically, will cause you zero problems. No need to remove rust on the coil or flywheel.

Gap normally is around 0.010". Use a piece of junk mail, business card or a 3x5 index card. Rotate flywheel where it will magnetically suck the coil to the flywheel magnets. Insert your junk mail or index card around flywheel and coil area. Coil should suck against the paper and flywheel. Gently SNUG down the coil mounting screws. Remove paper gapping tool. Hand rotate the flywheel several revolutions. Make sure no metallic interference is heard. Check your engine manual for your proper coil gap.

As mentioned before, get an inline spark tester. They are 5 bucks at Harbor Freight and many other places.


slomo


#13

S

slomo

Your "car-bu-trator" sounds like it is clogged up. Pilot circuit for sure. Having to run the choke confirms the engine wants more fuel at low revs.

Get a can of "car-bu-trator" cleaner. Remove the plastic float and needle, pilot and main jets. Also any brass emulsion tubes present. All those tiny holes need cleaned out and shot with compressed air from a real air compressor. No canned air please. Or take the entire "car-bu-trator" body and place inside your wife's dish washer. It needs to be surgically clean inside and out. Most of the places needed cleaning are where you can't really see deep inside the "car-bu-trator". Make sure your car-bu-trator gaskets are good, no vacuum leaks. Or buy a Crinese carb off Ebay for around 20-25 bucks delivered.

slomo


#14

S

slomo

Engine runs pretty well until it gets hot, so good chance ignition breakdown is the fault, so probably just replace it.
Are these coils pretty universal, mine is i/c 5hp model 130200, 132200.
No your engines doesn't run well at any speed. It won't idle and max revs now are shot. Dirty carb is your issue and or possilbe failing spark. Running with the choke half way on is not proper operation.

slomo


#15

S

seattlepioneer

My 130200 b&s 5hp has started cutting out. The mower is fine when cold but once it gets up to temp especially lately as the weather is warmer, as soon as you release the clutch and load is put on the engine it cuts out.
I've done all the basics, ie new plug, cleaned filters, cleaned carb, oil level, fuel ok etc which all looks ok.
Generally, the mower has always only really worked with choke at halfway. Choke off position has always been problematic and caused stalling. But now it stalls all the time especially as it gets hot.
It seems fine with engine revving (no load), but as soon as the load is applied it stalls.
Can anyone offer any advice here, please?

View attachment 53030View attachment 53031
You could have a failing ignition coil.

<< The mower is fine when cold but once it gets up to temp especially lately as the weather is warmer, as soon as you release the clutch and load is put on the engine it cuts out. >>

Has anyone tried connecting up a problem engine like the to an oscilloscope? An osciloscope makes a graph of voltage or other measurements which repeat themselves ---up to millions of times per second.

It might be interesting to make a parallel connection to a spark plug to an oscilloscope and see what you get. Once you understand what kind of trace you ought to get, it would probably be a lot easier to observe defects with a bad coil.


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