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I have a briggs and Stratton 24 hp that had a bad intake o-ring and after changing both I can't get them to seal correctly can I or should I be putting some gasket adhesive or something on them to help them to seal?? Thanks for your help

Why do you think you had a bad o ring?

Nummy said:

I have a briggs and Stratton 24 hp that had a bad intake o-ring and after changing both I can't get them to seal correctly can I or should I be putting some gasket adhesive or something on them to help them to seal?? Thanks for your help

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Yes, give us some more info about why you focused on this O-ring, I assume the one between the intake manifold and the head?

Give us backround on when the engine started acting up, what you have looked at and tried, etc. Also give us the full set of engine model
numbers off of the valve cover,
Thanks

Fish

engine model number is 44m7770790b1 yes the ones between the head and manifold I tried starting it last Friday and it didn't wanna start I noticed that the one of the bolts was loose and was leaking I tightened up the bolt it started ran like crap but good enough to get the yard mowed and when I was done I turned it and tried to start it again and it wouldn't start I got two new orings not the same as original I was told they changed them but the part number was the same and they were from b&s and they fit just alitttle smaller and don't have the v grooves in them like the originals they fit between the v and the inside lip I have spark on both sides, flywheel key is good, needle and seat are working, fuel relay is working, used 280 grit paper to clean heads sprayed everything with starting fluid and blew dry drained out gas and put in fresh cleaned out air filter and tried without air filter tried shutting off gas draining carb and spraying starting fluid in air intake and still nothing blasted it with starting fluid way more than it needed and noticed that it was leaking from the new orings took it part three times cleaning everything and reinstalling just can't get them to seal I don't know it I can put some gasket adhesive or something in there to help get it to seal or what to do at this point and they want $85 an hour at mower shop to fix the warranty just ran out last month I wish I wasn't a cheap skate and got the extended warranty and I wouldn't even have to mess with this it seemed easy enough to fix but I guess its above my pay grade I did have the carb bowl off and putting it back together was odd cause of that oring in there too not sure if it sealed properly in there so i'm gonna take that back apart and see if maybe I didn't put it together right but if I spray a bunch of starting fluid in air intake and every time it leaks around intake and head so that needs fixed for sure any idea are greatly appreciated THANKS

Describe with detail about how you checked the flywheel key, and how you tightened it back.

Have you looked at the valves at all?

I just took off the nut and washer and saw that they are where they need to be didn't take the fly wheel off didn't feel I needed to tried with my hands and it wasn't loose or cracked so if there was a problem would think it would be loose and tightened back up with impact just till it stopped then gave it a quick hit and I had the problem before I did that. no I haven't checked the valves it was running perfect until that bolt came loose and caused that seal to leak. can I put something on the orings to get a better seal? I have some some gasket adhesive but don't know if I should use it or not. I did take the carb back a part and feel better about how it went back together last time I used the screw to pull the bowl to the carb to seal this time I put the oring on the lip in the bowl and did a back and forth twisting action and it went together the way it should never had a carb with an oring in the bowl with a fuel relay before. I feel confident that if I can get the orings in the intake manifold to seal correctly it will start just don't know what i'm doing wrong.

Nummy said:

I just took off the nut and washer and saw that they are where they need to be didn't take the fly wheel off didn't feel I needed to tried with my hands and it wasn't loose or cracked so if there was a problem would think it would be loose and tightened back up with impact just till it stopped then gave it a quick hit and I had the problem before I did that. no I haven't checked the valves it was running perfect until that bolt came loose and caused that seal to leak. can I put something on the orings to get a better seal? I have some some gasket adhesive but don't know if I should use it or not. I did take the carb back a part and feel better about how it went back together last time I used the screw to pull the bowl to the carb to seal this time I put the oring on the lip in the bowl and did a back and forth twisting action and it went together the way it should never had a carb with an oring in the bowl with a fuel relay before. I feel confident that if I can get the orings in the intake manifold to seal correctly it will start just don't know what i'm doing wrong.

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Well, your problem is not those gaskets. We need to step back and take a breath.....

Okay...I took a breath. If it's not the gaskets what else could it be

damn, give us some details, give us a chance......

you mower was working fine? Then what?

you have focused on these silly gaskets, it is "not" your problem!!!! How can "we" help????? Maybe you can "help" too?

You removing the flywheel nut doesn't help, because if you didn't retorque it properly, it is yet another reason your engine will not start!!!!

nummy, Back for a minute to the intake . If your tractor was running when you suspected the intake was sucking leaked air, did you look at the plug coloring? I would expect a lighter , even whitish color and that the engine ran faster and lacked power. The o ring v groove sounds weird , usually the machined recesses for o rings are U shaped or square recesses. Only a little o ring protrusion above the metal is normal. Did you check for flatness with a straight edge and not overtorque?

it was running fine four weeks ago then I hit a tree root and trashed my blades changed them with new mowed once after and was good(the wife thinks it ran bad the time after I trashed blades but neither one of us is 100%) I didn't notice it running badly right after it happened and it didn't shut off. two weeks ago I tried to start it and it didn't want to start after a few tries it fired up took off the choke and it acted like the choke was still on I shut it off and noticed that the bold on the intake manifold was loose I tightened it up and it started better but wasn't right but it worked well enough to get the job done. then last it started rough mowed and when I got done and parked it shut it off and tried to restart it wanted to see how it would start hot and it wouldn't start at all and hasn't since. just put it back together for the umpteenth time and it's at least trying to start which is the most it's done in a week but still not starting. I was using some bad gas for a while that probable didn't help anything but I did get all of that out and replaced with fresh. I just noticed that every once in awhile when I take the choke off it stays up on the carb even when the linkage is off so now i'm thinking I have to pull the carb apart I don't know what else I say that will help. I was told that the orings leaking would keep it from starting. how will not torqueing the flywheel nut correctly affect it starting??

Nummy said:

it was running fine four weeks ago then I hit a tree root and trashed my blades changed them with new mowed once after and was good(the wife thinks it ran bad the time after I trashed blades but neither one of us is 100%) I didn't notice it running badly right after it happened and it didn't shut off. two weeks ago I tried to start it and it didn't want to start after a few tries it fired up took off the choke and it acted like the choke was still on I shut it off and noticed that the bold on the intake manifold was loose I tightened it up and it started better but wasn't right but it worked well enough to get the job done. then last it started rough mowed and when I got done and parked it shut it off and tried to restart it wanted to see how it would start hot and it wouldn't start at all and hasn't since. just put it back together for the umpteenth time and it's at least trying to start which is the most it's done in a week but still not starting. I was using some bad gas for a while that probable didn't help anything but I did get all of that out and replaced with fresh. I just noticed that every once in awhile when I take the choke off it stays up on the carb even when the linkage is off so now i'm thinking I have to pull the carb apart I don't know what else I say that will help. I was told that the orings leaking would keep it from starting. how will not torqueing the flywheel nut correctly affect it starting??

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WOW!!!! Again, WOW!!!!!

yeah it had bad power loss going up slight hill with blades engaged didn't want to do it at my normal speed but it would if I slowed down but barely when I did pull the plugs I didn't pay that close of attention it could of been whitish I didn't think they look bad though. the orings are square and the recess is square but in the recess they have three v's that the original orings lined up and fit into and the replacement ones are smaller and fit between the three v's and the inner lip. I tightened them until they stopped turning may have slightly over tightened them but when I checked them when I found that loose one the other three where that tight