Ariens yt12 with replacement engine B&S 28r707

[Xxtjtheboater95xx]

Hi guys, been reading these forums for a while now for your great help. This time though, I think I have a unique problem but it could just be a carb problem.

Here's the story

I have been using this mower over the summer, I bought it with a blown engine for a great price with multiple attachments including a snowblower on it right now. I went to start it the other day when we had a big snow storm and it wouldn't start right away and the cranking was pretty slow so I thought it was the battery. I cranked it a bunch of times and the flywheel teeth were a little stripped in one spot but after all those cranks it seemed to strip more and more of the teeth so I had an extra flywheel with a good ring gear. And it did start but I noticed afterward that the starter pinion gear was stripped now, and I think this is because the starter froze in the up position from the really cold weather and it rained and then froze during this whole process.

I also had an extra pinion gear and replaced that last night so that's all good. But still when I try to start it, it will start with a few cranks but only when I disconnect the transmission from the engine with a knob and this allows it to start because it is not spinning all those extra belts.

Still when it does start, it doesn't rev to full speed like it normally does I'm pretty sure because of the sound.

It was last night I started it again with the new flywheel and starter gear and I saw the muffler inside and it was red hot and so I shut it down. It has enough oil and is sitting on a level surface. The redness might be normal, but I just haven't seen it run before at night so I didn't want to wreck it and I just know it wasn't running right in the first place, thinking it might just not be getting enough fuel to run faster and I would think it needs a carb cleaning. But it worked well when it was warm out and only now having trouble. As I was thinking this, I hoped the new flywheel didn't change anything, I mean I didn't weigh them but they look exactly the same and they are both pretty darn heavy.

Ask me any questions you may have. Thank you for your help. I tried to give as much information as possible but I may have missed something.

 

[Fish]

Remove the flywheel nut and make sure that the key is not partially sheared, it could be the cause of the hot muffler, you may not have torqued the nut down tight enough.

 

[Xxtjtheboater95xx]

I remember putting the key in and hammered it down about a quarter inch below the surface of the flywheel and tightening the nut down as good as I possibly could do on my own with a crowbar and a torque wrench. By sheared, do you mean like the corners of the key dented in or like what would make a key shear? Am I missing something here?
Sorry :confused2:

 

[Xxtjtheboater95xx]

Flywheel key is in the right place, it'll run fine but after running for only about 30 seconds to a minute, the muffler will glow red hot as stated before, this is my biggest concern right now.

Oh and it eventually puts out a blue flame continuously after more than a min but I shut it down after that because I think I'm going to break something.

 

[Xxtjtheboater95xx]

Opened the cylinder head today and the top of the piston has some good carbon built up on it and so does the intake valve but the exhaust valve has a white coating of some sort on it. The valves, I'm pretty sure are seating nice and tight with no wiggle.

What do I check now for why the muffler is getting so red hot and the engine isn't staying started for too long.
Btw when I move the throttle lever, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference moving it slower or faster(but it does need to be at a relatively high throttle position for it even to start) best I'm not sure if its because its just too cold out.

 

[Fish]

You need to check your valve clearances, you will likely find the exhaust valve probably doesn't have any gap, and the exhaust cold with the piston at top dead center should be between .009" and .011", intake between .005" and .007"

 

[Xxtjtheboater95xx]

Finally was able to check the valve clearances, and they are within spec.had to take carb off for that so I cleaned the carb again and it's clean. I try to start it and it'll start when I choke it and will run for a few seconds and then shuts down, if I keep pushing the choke in and out it'll keep running but I'm thinking the guy gave me the wrong flywheel, but he knew what engine I bought from him. Anyway it fits but I don't know whether a wrong flywheel will cause the engine not to run right. Or if I should look for something else instead of taking the damn flywheel of again.

 

[briggs]

Finally was able to check the valve clearances, and they are within spec.had to take carb off for that so I cleaned the carb again and it's clean. I try to start it and it'll start when I choke it and will run for a few seconds and then shuts down, if I keep pushing the choke in and out it'll keep running but I'm thinking the guy gave me the wrong flywheel, but he knew what engine I bought from him. Anyway it fits but I don't know whether a wrong flywheel will cause the engine not to run right. Or if I should look for something else instead of taking the damn flywheel of again.

take the carb of again soak it in a mix of gas and sea foam of night then blow it out with compressed air make sure u get all the ports etc

 

[exotion]

take the carb of again soak it in a mix of gas and sea foam of night then blow it out with compressed air make sure u get all the ports etc

If it starts on choke that means it wants fuel because something is partially slowing the flow of gas as soon as you take it off choke you create a bigger mix of air and gas but your Carb is starving for fuel I agree you need a better way to clean it if I clean a carb the first time I use compressed air and carb cleaner the second time I let soak fully submerged in seafoam I make sure I twist it around to get all air bubbles out the next day I take it out use can of carb cleaner and a lot of compressed air. Maybe a new needle and seat and o ring also don't forgt new gaskets between carb and engine

 

[briggs]

If it starts on choke that means it wants fuel because something is partially slowing the flow of gas as soon as you take it off choke you create a bigger mix of air and gas but your Carb is starving for fuel I agree you need a better way to clean it if I clean a carb the first time I use compressed air and carb cleaner the second time I let soak fully submerged in seafoam I make sure I twist it around to get all air bubbles out the next day I take it out use can of carb cleaner and a lot of compressed air. Maybe a new needle and seat and o ring also don't forgt new gaskets between carb and engine

i agree:thumbsup: