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I have an Ariens zero turn 20hp 48" mower that started and ran for half hour, then just shut off while mowing for no apparrent reason (with plenty of gas). Would not restart with key (clicks, or no sound). First I jumped it to re-start, then it happened again after 5 mins. Re-jumped it and same thing happened again. Battery is one year old and tests out OK. Any ideas?

Test the battery while it is running. Your volt meter should be reading 13.4 V or higher. Your charging system may not be working. Also, check to see that you have a good ground to the chassis. If you loose ground the engine may quit.

sjm said:

I have an Ariens zero turn HP 48" mower that started and ran for half hour, then just shut off while mowing for no apparent reason (with plenty of gas). Would not restart with key (clicks, or no sound). First I jumped it to re-start, then it happened again after 5 Min's. Re-jumped it and same thing happened again. Battery is one year old and tests out OK. Any ideas?

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It does sound like a path of high resistance.
Try checking both the + fuse (comes off the + terminal of the battery), and ground path fuse (what Ariens calls it).
Even if the battery checks OK, check to see that you have proper water level & clean terminals.
With engine off, check the B terminal of ignition switch. If no voltage present, fuse blown.
There a complete service manual available on the Ariens website. Go here and enter your model and serial numbers: Ariens Service Manuals

I cleaned the battery terminals and connectors, the lug on the red cable was corroded and broke off so replaced that. Also added water to two battery cells that were a little low but not significant. Got a new volt meter and the battery reads 13V when mower is off and same when it is running. Both fuses near the battery and the ignition switch are fine. Jumped it again, and it runs fine for about 5 mins, then stops running, there is little back-fire when the engine stops, and then I get nothing when I turn the key to restart. Charging system issue?

Also forgot to mention that I checked the ground to the engine and it is fine.

Got some ideas, but need the engine numbers. No change in voltage between running and not running is a concern, but don't really don't want to say that's it yet. There should be a readable difference. If you can test for spark when it shuts down and does not start please do so. What is the battery voltage when unit shuts down?

Below is a procedure which a couple of us put together which may help you. I'll watch for your next post before I say much more as I don't want to point you in the wrong direction.



Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.

sjm said:

I cleaned the battery terminals and connectors, the lug on the red cable was corroded and broke off so replaced that. Also added water to two battery cells that were a little low but not significant. Got a new volt meter and the battery reads 13V when mower is off and same when it is running. Both fuses near the battery and the ignition switch are fine. Jumped it again, and it runs fine for about 5 mins, then stops running, there is little back-fire when the engine stops, and then I get nothing when I turn the key to restart. Charging system issue?

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It's possible that you may have more than one problem going on here. The stopping after 5 minutes *could* indicate a plugged gas cap vent (perhaps from a mud wasp or whatever, causes a partial vacuum to form in gas line cutting off fuel supply). *Could* also be a magneto overheating causing system to fail or the diode is opening after 5 minutes allowing the magneto to go to ground.

To me, as the engine backfires when it dies indicates an electrical problems the cause. The most logical cause is related to magneto failure or the magneto kill circuit being activated by a failure of some component.

If the engine dies after 5 minutes and *everything is dead* (no crank, no lights, etc), that indicates only one thing may be at fault.

However, if the engine dies after 5 minutes and the *battery is dead* (will start after jumping), you possibly may have more than one problem (as the engine does not need the battery to continue running as the ignition is derived from the magneto.) One component is causing the engine to die, a second causing the battery not to be recharged.

Looking at the electrical schematic for a 915031 (guessing that it's similar to your ZT), when you turn the key to start, power comes from the battery through a heavy red wire, runs through the 25 amp fuse to the B terminal of the ignition switch (IG).

Out of the A terminal of the IG switch to a connection point where the regulator and seat switch connects.

A purple wire continues on to term #1 of the PTO switch. Comes out on term #7 & runs to term #1 of the parking brake, out on term #2 to S2 of the IG switch. Out on S1 of IG switch to starter solenoid, completing circuit and engaging starter.

Looking at connection where the regulator and seat switch connect. This will be at the seat switch itself. Power goes into the seat switch at the #1 terminal, out of the #2 term on a red/yel wire to term #1 of the parking brake switch. Out on term #2 on a yellow/red wire to to the starter relay, terminal #86. Out of relay coil on term #85 to ground (actually to ground fuse terminal A, then to ground).

The starter relay must remain energized throughout the operating cycle, and should it fail to hold, it would allow the magneto to go to ground, killing the engine. It's held on by the seat switch and the parking brake switch. Could be the problem for engine dieing, but would not be the cause of the battery not charging.

There's also a diode coming off the relay, should it open in service, it would prevent the engine from cranking.

Analyzing all this, the only part that is common to everything you describe is the 25 amp fuse coming off the battery. I believe I would start by replacing both 25 amp fuses (both battery fuse and ground path fuse) to eliminate this possibility, and it's a cheap test. There's a slight possibility that one of the fuses is damaged and failing when it gets hot.

A damaged battery or charging system would not (should not) account for the engine dying after 5 minutes of running. Sounds like electrical component failure due to heating up. When it gets so hot, it opens and kills the engine through the magneto kill circuit (just guessing).

Does the engine crank after it dies? If it does, I would suspect two problems. One causing the engine to die, one not allowing battery to charge. I would suspect starter relay or diode (causing magneto ground circuit to activate), and/or the ignition switch.

If it does not (switch set to run position and headlights don't work), it points to the + fuse opening when hot (most common item,) or failure of the ignition switch. (Burned contacts offer less contact area when running and will get hotter then normal. Could be hot enough to open during use, breaking the circuit. (Not unheard of).

I am fair with electrical and engine knowledge. Battery voltage after the mower shuts down is 12.5v. I checked for spark after shuts down and don't have. The mower is an Ariens EZR 2048, model 915023, serial number 001222. Both 30A fuses are good. Voltage on large terminal on the solenoid is 11v. It has a four terminal solenoid and there are 9v at both small terminals when holding key in start position. Don't get any power on other large terminal of solenoid when holding key in start position. No power at starter when holding key in start position. Ground back to the battery checks OK.

Hope that helps.

Also, just jumped it again and battery reads 9v with engine running.

Also to enigma-2, when the engine dies I get nothing when trying to restart, no crank, nothing. Will try replacing fuses and looking at ignition switch.

When it shuts down and you have no spark, I would be changing the coil. My guess is that it is shorting out when it gets hot. Once you get it running check battery voltage across the two battery terminals at 3/4 throttle. You should get a reading of over 13 volts.

I only get 9 v across the battery terminals at 3/4 throttle after jumping it.

That voltage tells me that you have either a bad stator or voltage regulator. Can you post the engine model numbers so I can see the type of charging system you have.

The engine is model 406777, type 0130E1, code 020529YG.

I tried running it again today. Seems like an overheating problem causing the engine to quit. If I jump it shortly after it quits it quits again in a short period. After waiting a day between jumping, it will run longer.

You are going to have to replace the coil To keep it running. I'm working on the charging system.

There were 4 different stators used on you engine. Can you post some pictures of the wiring coming out of the engine, with the plugs they go into and any parts to which they are connected.

There seems to be more then one problem here, has already posted up I would go for a new coil when hot I believe the coil is going to ground, and then replace the voltage regulator because you are not getting the power you should be, if after that you are not getting 13volts+ then replace the stator.

Photos of wiring to the engine are attached.

If you look at the diagram in post number 17, any of the plugs look like yours? I know that there may be more than one. Do you have a part that looks like part number 501 or 501A? That is the voltage regular, which might be bad. If we can figure out exactly which system you have, I know that EngineMan will be able to post a diagram of how to test it to pinpoint which part is bad.

Mine looks like 789A and I definitely have 501A voltage regulator ---- was wondering what that was. Thank you guys for all the help so far, it is really appreciated!

Stator/Voltage regulator Testing

Thanks EngineMan for your help. I wish I could figure out how to put diagrams in my posts.

Thank you. How do I determine if I have a 5 amp system or a 9 amp system?

If you care to read the note's you will that they are the same....! (to test)

As EngineMan said read all the info we have given you. Whether you have a 5--9 amp stator does not make a difference to your problem.

OK. I thought I needed to know in order to do the Alternator Output Test, because of the difference in the voltage readings between the 5 amp and 9 amp systems. After re-reading I guess that is not necessary.

I will proceed to 1) replace both ignition coils, 2) test and replace the voltage regulator and see if that solves the problem. If not then replace the stator.

Thank you, Rivets and EngineMan for all the help!

Am sure you'll fix it if not come back and ask someone will be here for you...:thumbsup:

I bought an Ariens 46" riding mower,brand new,last month. Got it home ,started it once,then wouldn't start after that. Called Ariens,and they sent a local small engine repair guy,who is an athorized service repairman to the house,picked up my mower. The battery was the problem. He replaced it ,and brought it back to me. No problem now.
Excellent service from Ariens,and the repair guy.
Anyway, Just cause it's new,don't mean anything with batteries. Get yourself another one,and I bet you'll be good. They are not that expensive if yours isn't still under warranty.
By the way, I charged the original battery,and it still didn't start. Even with the charger saying it was full charge.