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New guy here, first time with a mower that has a drink holder.

I got a 42" riding mower a couple of days ago that needs things (head gasket, who knows what else after that?) and so far, I haven't seen the headlight operating, so I looked at a schematic and it shows that it "has a special alternator system. The headlights are not connected to the battery, but have their own electrical source." (in the link below, next to the diagram of the ignition switch).

Why would they allow the headlight brightness to vary with RPM? That makes no sense. Well, other than lower cost by not using a better voltage regulator. I haven't found a service manual with specs yet, so I'm working a bit blind on this. Gas had water and debris, so I drained/cleaned the tank, changed the oil, will change the fuel filter and spark plug today and order the correct head gasket ASAP.

My questions-

Will the alternator have a problem if I use the headlight + wire to activate a Bosch-style relay, then supply battery voltage to the lights through the relay so it's more stable? That way, the lights will only work when the engine runs, but RPM won't cause them to dim (as much).

I plan to check the bulbs for draw before doing anything like this but will use LED if the alternator is at the edge of its capacity.

I worked in car audio/security and as a marine mechanic, so seeing this kind of wiring makes my eye twitch.


Thanks, in advance.

If that engine and mower setup has what I think it does, you may not have enough amps to charge the battery and also power the headlights. That setup uses the 3 amp side of the stator which is half wave rectified via a diode to charge the battery and the 5 amp AC side to power the headlights. The headlight bulbs will be at most 25 watts each so 50 watts total for a system that generate roughly 60 watts for headlight power.

You could always replace the stator under the flywheel to the 9 amp system and install a voltage regulator and then power the system like your discussing. And what you are complaining about the headlights has been used for more years than I have worked on them, and that is a long time. And personally headlights on a mower are a total waste anyway since they are about bright enough to drive from the yard to park in the garage. They are not bright enough to mow with them.

ILENGINE said:

If that engine and mower setup has what I think it does, you may not have enough amps to charge the battery and also power the headlights. That setup uses the 3 amp side of the stator which is half wave rectified via a diode to charge the battery and the 5 amp AC side to power the headlights. The headlight bulbs will be at most 25 watts each so 50 watts total for a system that generate roughly 60 watts for headlight power.

You could always replace the stator under the flywheel to the 9 amp system and install a voltage regulator and then power the system like your discussing. And what you are complaining about the headlights has been used for more years than I have worked on them, and that is a long time. And personally headlights on a mower are a total waste anyway since they are about bright enough to drive from the yard to park in the garage. They are not bright enough to mow with them.

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This makes me want to ask "What was the point?".

You service this kind of machinery as a job? I'm still getting info (manuals, etc)- is there a source of service manuals for these with specs?

Also, when I removed the fuel filler cap, I saw parts in the tank but I don't know what they're used for-

The bulbs are common 1156 bulbs that @12.8 V draws 2.1 amp each.

The dual stator was used to keep costs at a minimum. Besides most don't mow grass in the dark. Lights are mainly for safety but most people can't see pass the phones; unless, your equipment is as big as a 18 wheeler. And even mower with lights powered a good system are this pretty well worthless.

If this is a used mower those parts are probably from a fuel container nozzle.

StarTech said:

The bulbs are common 1156 bulbs that @12.8 V draws 2.1 amp each.

The dual stator was used to keep costs at a minimum. Besides most don't mow grass in the dark. Lights are mainly for safety but most people can't see pass the phones; unless, your equipment is as big as a 18 wheeler. And even mower with lights powered a good system are this pretty well worthless.

If this is a used mower those parts are probably from a fuel container nozzle.

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OK, but this is a tractor, it's sold as a tractor and it can do a lot more than mow a lawn. In places where heavy snow isn't an issue, pulling a small trailer at dusk (or later) would be great, if the lights worked. Obviously, it would be easy enough to slap some self-powered lights on it, but should we need to?

I just looked for 'Briggs & Stratton stator' and they really could have used a higher capacity part for not much more money. 10A-16A? That's pretty poor.

Gym123 said:

OK, but this is a tractor, it's sold as a tractor and it can do a lot more than mow a lawn. In places where heavy snow isn't an issue, pulling a small trailer at dusk (or later) would be great, if the lights worked. Obviously, it would be easy enough to slap some self-powered lights on it, but should we need to?

I just looked for 'Briggs & Stratton stator' and they really could have used a higher capacity part for not much more money. 10A-16A? That's pretty poor.

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I have never seen the 10-16A system on a single cylinder. Only the V twin engines. Most singles are either the 3/5 systems that have manual pto or the 9 with regulator for electric pto mowers. The V twins run either the 3/5 without electric pto or 10-16 with electric pto.

I understand your concern about why have headlights if they are not usable. That has been the question for over 30 years. And it is a lawn tractor meaning not really designed to do anything other than mow the lawn. Most are not even designed to pull anything other than themselves with the operator. The truth is they have not been designed to be used as a tractor for years. Tractor just refers to they look like a tractor not that they are a tractor. If you want to use it as a tractor then you need to move to the diesel subcompacts not lawn or garden tractors. In the past garden tractors were considered ground engaging but not any more.

Consider this it not just the stator that has to be changed but the addition of a voltage regulator. Customers are always wanting the cheapest price so the manufacture has cut corners to get it down there.

With the current dual stator you can't even operate a tow behind sprayer which pulls around 7-10 amps.

BTW that Peerless/Dana manual transaxle is a only a light duty unit. Not meant for pulling a small plow or discs. You can get by with rolling items but not dragging items such as a de-thatching rake.

I had a customer last year to bitch because it cost $750 to get his JD rider back in good working order after he used it as a bush hog saying he could have brought a $3000 mower instead. Just didn't make much sense other than he was wanting me not to charge for the labor and parts; otherwords, he was wanting the work done for free.

StarTech said:

Consider this it not just the stator that has to be changed but the addition of a voltage regulator. Customers are always wanting the cheapest price so the manufacture has cut corners to get it down there.

With the current dual stator you can't even operate a tow behind sprayer which pulls around 7-10 amps.

BTW that Peerless/Dana manual transaxle is a only a light duty unit. Not meant for pulling a small plow or discs. You can get by with rolling items but not dragging items such as a de-thatching rake.

I had a customer last year to bitch because it cost $750 to get his JD rider back in good working order after he used it as a bush hog saying he could have brought a $3000 mower instead. Just didn't make much sense other than he was wanting me not to charge for the labor and parts; otherwords, he was wanting the work done for free.

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Didn't want to pay- sure, that's a reasonable idea.........

I guess some people need to be told "THIS ISN'T FARM EQUIPMENT!".

Update- probably corrosion on the terminals- I tested the lights separately, found that one socket was definitely corroded when I disconnected the plug at the hood & connected a battery, cleaned it and that problem was solved. The switch was good, checked any other connections and after sliding the wires onto the switch & unplugging the wires at the hood, the lights now work.

Now, it looks a bit like Gort, in 'The Day The Earth Stood Still'......