After charging: No start.

MNMindbender

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7000 series elite Pro 26hp 54” 917.986450. Started GT but did not have enough to keep turning starter. Hooked up to charger until charged. Then no start. When I turn key on and cross solenoid then starter turns but no firing. Hot to solenoid. Hot to both sides of amp meter. But not hot after what appears to be an in-line fuse between amp meter and hour meter. Wondering about cutting out the inline fuse and replacing with a blade fuse? Suggested fuse size?
 
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StarTech

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Don't know what you are look at but according the schematic the fuse is between the amp meter and the starter solenoid. 20 amp ATC fuse.

The only between the amp meter and the hour meter is the ignition switch. Ignition has to be in the run for voltage to be the hour meter.
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MNMindbender

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Don't know what you are look at but according the schematic the fuse is between the amp meter and the starter solenoid. 20 amp ATC fuse.

The only between the amp meter and the hour meter is the ignition switch. Ignition has to be in the run for voltage to be the hour meter.
View attachment 65413
Thanks Star Tech. I found the fuse blade and replaced with a 20A. It immediately blew the fuse. I did put a 25 and it blew a second time. What ever occurred was due to the charging. I used a 20A charge set on automatic. It stops when reaches 100% or when it can not charge more. Here's my reasoning about where to go next. I checked most of the connections and they seem ok. So, I assume I need to test each of the sensors to discover if I fried something. I thought I would disconnect sensors one at a time (solenoid - low side), left brake/clutch engage switch, Ampmeter, Ignition Switch, Seat Sensor. At the same time I can test the sensors for operation. Opinion?
 
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StarTech

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You will need several going this path. Disconnect both carburetor fuel solenoid and the voltage regulator and try again. If the fuse don't blow then plugin one or the other of these back in and see if the fuse blows. The one that blows the fuse is the bad one.

About the only other components that can blow the fuse is hour meter and if the PTO on the electric clutch. But I kinda don't you have the PTO on at this point.
 

MNMindbender

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Thank You! I did as you recommended. As I was searching for carb solenoid I found the lead wires e pinched between two pieces of metal shrouding. Corrected that issue. Key turned no blown fuse. Eventually rebooked carb solenoid and stator with no blown fuse. Decided to start the mower. It backfired like crazy, turned over but no start. Before it started well and ran well. Now no luck. I am perplexed. Valves and heads spec’ed and torqued per manual. It must be the carb solenoid or stator? Appreciate your thoughts. Sometimes I have to learn more than I want when I DIY.
 
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