Export thread

A few years ago I was given a Yard Machines (by MTD) Tractor, 2000 model 13AI607H118. Now that I have recently overhauled the mowing deck and for a change can actually HEAR other components while using the machine, I have come to notice a whirring sound in the rear end only when moving. I do not know if this sound is normal, but I wonder if this model has any way to drain and add fluid to the transmission. I am aware many LTs have sealed transmissions, but this machine appears built, in general, to a more durable standard. As such, I'd like to maintain it. If you think I should simply poke around a bit more, is there one side behind a wheel (other location) that I am more likely to find access? And, what type of fluid is appropriate?

Single speed differential uses 00 Grease. No way to change except disassembly of unit.It may be the bearings in the variable speed pulley or the idle pulley. Worth checking before condemning the transaxle.

Doing a little research I think your unit uses a model 918-0551A peerless transmission. If I am correct it uses Bentinite clay based lube. There should be an ID tag on the transmission, but it may be difficult to find. Here’s where I found that transmission number. https://www.partstree.com/models/13...sam-s-club/single-speed-transmission-assy-10/

You would have to take it apart to add grease unless you drill a hole in the case. It uses bentonite grease. Bentonite grease is one of the best types of grease for industrial applications, they are high-quality, extreme pressure (EP), clay thickened grease developed for the lubrication of industrial equipment operating under heavy loads and at high temperatures.

Personally I am going to keep using the 00 Grease as the other grease used to dry out and no longer lube the intend gear train. Now the unit does to be fully seal to use it and not to depend the metal to metal case contact points as any grease will seep out. Be it the 00 or some other grease.

Star, I agree with you to a point. Problem is the 00 grease will not mix with Bentinite so to switch over to grease you will have to split the transmission, remove all the Bentinite and then replace with grease. From experience I can tell you this is a dirty and messy job.

Most times I got clean out all grease to get rid all metal shrapnel embedded in the grease. Of course that during rebuilds.

howaya said:

A few years ago I was given a Yard Machines (by MTD) Tractor, 2000 model 13AI607H118. Now that I have recently overhauled the mowing deck and for a change can actually HEAR other components while using the machine, I have come to notice a whirring sound in the rear end only when moving. I do not know if this sound is normal, but I wonder if this model has any way to drain and add fluid to the transmission. I am aware many LTs have sealed transmissions, but this machine appears built, in general, to a more durable standard. As such, I'd like to maintain it. If you think I should simply poke around a bit more, is there one side behind a wheel (other location) that I am more likely to find access? And, what type of fluid is appropriate?

Click to expand...

I recommend you replace the drive belt along with the stationary and idler pullies.

The single speed F/R transmission in these old riders were bullet proof. They used a light grease and not a pour in fluid.

Wow, thanks to all of you for your replies.

SterTech's comment, "It may be the bearings in the variable speed pulley or the idle pulley. Worth checking before condemning the transaxle" makes plenty of sense, but getting to them is just as difficult as the belts that run from them. I need to take another close look and contemplate replacement of the pulleys and belts myself or paying a shop to do it. I am pretty sure I already have all the necessary parts.

So far, I haven't found an ID tag on the transmission. I have inspected all sides except the bottom. The diagram that Rivets posted is helpful all the same as it shows what seems to be just a rudimentary system.

Many thanks to hlw49 for identifying the appropriate grease. Adding grease through a few small holes around the case appears possible but is likely far from the best approach. I assume opening the case is necessary but will not do that until after dealing with the pulleys and the belts.

All good info above.

What I would do since it's a new you you free machine.
and you want to work on it yourself
Download a owners manual and parts list. You can usually find them free.
The owners manual will usually have belt replacement and tips.
If that is the variator drive type tractor the two belts going to the variator have to be replaced as a matched pair and usually the first time is a learning curve experience.
If you later determine its the rear differential noisy and it's the single speed sealed type and you only hear it howl and growl at the higher speeds I just ignore such. Sometimes you can elevate the rear tires and the noise goes away or is reduced because the differential gears do not have a pull or coast load on them. A hint it's the differential howl is the noise will usually change pitch when going uphill or downhill and not mowing (no PTO operation) just riding the tractor.
because the gears are not spiral cut (just straight cut teeth) and some noise at high speeds is normal. They don't make much noise when new due to the heavy grease not displaced yet. They use bushing instead of bearings, so not geared for the long haul. Most of them just use grease (not oil) because no oil seals at the axles. (just bushing, not bearings and if lots of oil is added it WILL DRIP/run OUT the axles shafts. When I overhaul that type I just add 00 grease and dig out the benonite stuff but don't really get too concerned about it.
I have added about 1/2 cup 80-140 gear oil during assembly (just little bit)
You can find a free Tecumseh/Peerless transaxle download on-line to help ID y0urs and shows service data and part numbers
Not a fun job removing and opening up them single speed peerless.
I keep a eye and ear open for them to use as spares and parts.
(lots of parts on ebay after you determine what you need)

WARNING. Any one who opens up any transaxle you must realize that many parts are sharper than any knives in your kitchen. Be very careful and have a few good bandaids on hand.

I was having trouble with my 50" White (Yardman by a different name). A continuously variable speed machine, not hydraulic. It used to "jump out of gear" when turning and also when going up a slope. Agent and importer told me the problem was in the forward/reverse shifting mechanism in the diff housing. So I pulled it appart and adjusted clearances - bought shims and made my own out of hardened sheeting. Didn't help. Bought new gears - pinion and crown wheels for they told me they must be worn. Didn't help. I asked if it could be the actual diff assembly/ Was told by both - no those don't fail. Have a look at my first picture. I took it in to the local dealer - "No that play is all OK). I asked the importer, spares stockist ... "Shouldn't be but we don't sell at assembly. You need to replace the whole housing" Both the dealer and the agent wanted to sell me new assembly for the equivalent of $US500. They told me that the movement that I was seeing was nothing to worry about for the axles were held in place by the bearings and that the movement was normal. I was told to check the end lateral (in/pit) axle paly. Added new shims. Did not help!!! With no answer insight and not wanting to spend $500 I went on line and found replacement diff and axles on-line in the US at a fraction of the price. Also cheaper than MTD). But freight to my country was a bit of a killer. However a nephew was coming from the US in about a month!. Free shipping to his place in the US. he was bringing golf clubs and the axle went into the bag. Deal done. New axle arrived ..... look at pic two. Only a fraction of the axle play. The agents and dealer didn't know what they were talking about. So time to reinstall. Ah - graphite grease. No one here knew of it. I was far from convinced that it was good staff for when I opened my original housing there was next to no greasing around any of the gears of diff housing. That stuff cavitates terribly. (See next picture. The third shows how obviously there was serious wear as result of a lack of lube where it counted. Those metal flecks weren't in the original grease.) Sure that stull clung to surfaces but was useless as a lubricant). Anyway to buy some was megabuck for a small tube from the US and I would need many tubes.
Off to the web. A lot of reading and there were suggestions for alternatives but none really appealed. i spoke to oil and grease wholesalers here. Nothing suitable and as for bentonite grease ... what is that). Finally on the web someone said they have used John Deere corn header oil. This was designed to equipment of with stress surface, moderate rotation speeds, good thixotropy, water resistant ....... So rang the local John Deere agent. Yeah not a problem ... we sell 20L drums! How much did I want ... oh about half a litre. Bring a container in and we will provide some from our bulk tank. Done. Took a 2 L container ... he as good as filled it. How much? Dont know - how about a bottle of wine.... Down the road and back in a flash with a reasonable bottle and I was off and away. TFilled the diff transmission assembly lower half and spun the axles/ Just look at that oil. Clung and didn't cavitate!! Job done.
Close the housing and installed it. Adjusted the shift handle and away i went. That was five years ago now. Anyone want to some excess header oil/grease? (Last picture just for fun ... anyone wanting a worn transaxle?)