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8252 has bright spark, clean carb, etc.. won't start!
#1
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Hey guys,
We have a Lawn Boy 8252 that used to run like a champ. It started running so-so, so we did a couple of things.. put in a new spark plug, sanded the points, checked all the connections, took apart and cleaned out the carb, put in fresh gas, and replaced the crank seal. When I put it all back together, I could get it to fire once or twice, even once I got it running at a low RPM, then it stalled. Same with starting fluid, just a fire or two. After a bit of sitting (week or two), and a re-clean of the carb, and new gas again, I can't get it to fire at all, even with starting fluid sprayed in the cylinder, and sprayed in the carb.
What's crazy is that the spark is bright blue.. so I thought it'd fire at least once given that I sprayed a bit of fluid in the cylinder... oh well.. any help would be appreciated! Miss this mower running well like it used to...
We have a Lawn Boy 8252 that used to run like a champ. It started running so-so, so we did a couple of things.. put in a new spark plug, sanded the points, checked all the connections, took apart and cleaned out the carb, put in fresh gas, and replaced the crank seal. When I put it all back together, I could get it to fire once or twice, even once I got it running at a low RPM, then it stalled. Same with starting fluid, just a fire or two. After a bit of sitting (week or two), and a re-clean of the carb, and new gas again, I can't get it to fire at all, even with starting fluid sprayed in the cylinder, and sprayed in the carb.
What's crazy is that the spark is bright blue.. so I thought it'd fire at least once given that I sprayed a bit of fluid in the cylinder... oh well.. any help would be appreciated! Miss this mower running well like it used to...
#2
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
check the compression too. i had an m series that i did an overhaul on and the rings were weak and it only had 70 ish psi. I had a extra engine that had great compression so i stole the piston and rings out of it and put it the engine and it started up. but eventually the coil stopped working on it too. I replaced that and it runs like a champ now. I think if the compression gets too low it can cause it to run weak or not at all. Since it was running well and then it didnt run at all i dont know if this is it, but just an idea of something to check. good luck!
#3
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Did you check or change the crank seal under the flywheel? This seal had a tendency to dry out and then pop out.
#4
robinb66
robinb66
yep sounds like you getting air into the system somehow check your seals and the carb gasket, as well as the reed plate to crankcase seal!!
#5
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
also make sure that the reed plate is flat against the housing. over time a gap can form causing the engine to not run right.
#6
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Oops, I didn't realize I had a thread started on this. I'll delete the other post. I checked compression and it's 75 psi, which I think is enough to start.. could the spark be sparking at the wrong time? Or if the timing was off would it just not spark at all?
#7
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Sorry to bump but this mower is still sitting in my garage waiting to be reassembled pending advice from anyone willing to help. Could someone answer my question about the spark timing from the previous post?
#8
turfboy1997
check the flywheel key and see if it is sheared. check the carb throttle spring and make sure it is working correctly.
turfboy1997
Sorry to bump but this mower is still sitting in my garage waiting to be reassembled pending advice from anyone willing to help. Could someone answer my question about the spark timing from the previous post?
check the flywheel key and see if it is sheared. check the carb throttle spring and make sure it is working correctly.
#9
P
peteclark3
Will do, but the spark question.. Does the fact that it has spark mean that it should fire from an electrical perspective? Or could the spark be sparking at the wrong time? Just want to know if I can check the electrical system off the troubleshooting list..
P
peteclark3
check the flywheel key and see if it is sheared. check the carb throttle spring and make sure it is working correctly.
Will do, but the spark question.. Does the fact that it has spark mean that it should fire from an electrical perspective? Or could the spark be sparking at the wrong time? Just want to know if I can check the electrical system off the troubleshooting list..
#11
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
If the spark is not at the right time on the up stroke it will not run or run poorly or fire out the carb. so its a timing issue if you ask me, so the first place i would go is that flywheel key being sheared or a loose bolt on the flywheel.
#12
J
jameshobbs
Do not forget to clean and check the exhaust ports ! If they are plugged up it can cause loss of power and will not start in extreme plugged cases
J
jameshobbs
electrical is good
Do not forget to clean and check the exhaust ports ! If they are plugged up it can cause loss of power and will not start in extreme plugged cases
#13
P
peteclark3
Hmm so wait a sec (yes I'm still working on this with my son trying to get it running!!). So it's possible it could have spark but be sparking at the wrong time on this mower? (lawn boy 8252) .. I thought if it sparked then I automatically meant the timing was good. It shocks me because I sprayed starting fluid even in the cylinder and tried drill starting it and couldn't get a single fire out of it. It's nuts! I even made a spark test video for anyone willing to look and help...
Lawn Boy 8252 Spark Test - YouTube
I think the flywheel key is fine but ill check tomorrow. It doesn't seem like its possible to assemble the stuff under the flywheel incorrectly such that the timing is off.. Seems like everything only fits one way. I can't give up on this mower.. It's one of my son's favorites! He's 9.. Even wondering if someone would remotely troubleshoot this with me over FaceTime.. I'd pay!
Pete
P
peteclark3
If the spark is not at the right time on the up stroke it will not run or run poorly or fire out the carb. so its a timing issue if you ask me, so the first place i would go is that flywheel key being sheared or a loose bolt on the flywheel.
Hmm so wait a sec (yes I'm still working on this with my son trying to get it running!!). So it's possible it could have spark but be sparking at the wrong time on this mower? (lawn boy 8252) .. I thought if it sparked then I automatically meant the timing was good. It shocks me because I sprayed starting fluid even in the cylinder and tried drill starting it and couldn't get a single fire out of it. It's nuts! I even made a spark test video for anyone willing to look and help...
Lawn Boy 8252 Spark Test - YouTube
I think the flywheel key is fine but ill check tomorrow. It doesn't seem like its possible to assemble the stuff under the flywheel incorrectly such that the timing is off.. Seems like everything only fits one way. I can't give up on this mower.. It's one of my son's favorites! He's 9.. Even wondering if someone would remotely troubleshoot this with me over FaceTime.. I'd pay!
Pete
#14
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Go to the website below and use the manuals which cover D-400 engines. Your unit is a model D-481, if I have done my research properly.
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html
https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball.html
#15
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Yeah, I have this on my iPad and have been through it at least twice.. Still can't figure it out, let me know on the timing question above if someone can.
#16
J
jameshobbs
J
jameshobbs
Check your reed plate ( behind the carb,plate inside the engine ) they should be flat against the plate and sealing, If "open" or not sealing they can not do there job ( like a intake valve on a 4-stroke ) ?
Also check the exhaust ports if they are clogged it will not start or have little or no power ?
Hope this helps I have had a reed plate and / or clogged exhaust ports drive me crazy !!
and as my kids say " that's a pretty short drive ant'i dad ? "
Good luck !
Randy
Also check the exhaust ports if they are clogged it will not start or have little or no power ?
Hope this helps I have had a reed plate and / or clogged exhaust ports drive me crazy !!
and as my kids say " that's a pretty short drive ant'i dad ? "
Good luck !
Randy
#17
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Thanks.. Just checked the reed plate today and they were open a bit, so I bent them ever so slightly and now they are closed. Exhaust ports are open, cleaned the muffler a while ago as possible cause. What about the timing question above, is it possible to get a spark, but at the wrong time, on this engine?
It got in this non starting condition after I replaced the crank seal, which I did because it was not running very well and it's something my son thought we should do.. Does this offer any additional clues?
It got in this non starting condition after I replaced the crank seal, which I did because it was not running very well and it's something my son thought we should do.. Does this offer any additional clues?
#18
J
jameshobbs
J
jameshobbs
I would replace the reed plate they are cheep and very,very easy to bend to much ! ( they only go one way !!! ) " maybe 5 bucks ?" There is not anyway the new bottom seal is upside down and /or not sealing ? tore or damaged ? The engine has to be able to hold a vacuum for the reed plate to be allowed to suck it open and closed If it does not it wont start. Also check to top crank seal too it could be shot if the bottom one was ?
How much compression does the engine have ? ? do a compression test remove the spark plug and install the tester some you will have to hold in the spark plug hole others you just screw in. crank the engine a few times and see what reading you get you want at LEAST 90 PSI if its below that the engine will not run on low compression low compression could mean a stuck or broke ring scored the cylinder wall ?
While you have the flywheel off look at and check the key way and key closely no dings of dents that is what sets the timing. When you put the flywheel back on look at the air gap between the The C-D (Capacitor Discharge) and the flywheel Insert .010 non-metallic gauge between C-D pack and magnets on the flywheel. this site helps explain the timing of the D engine and the c.D pack https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball25.pd
Hope this helps ?
Randy
How much compression does the engine have ? ? do a compression test remove the spark plug and install the tester some you will have to hold in the spark plug hole others you just screw in. crank the engine a few times and see what reading you get you want at LEAST 90 PSI if its below that the engine will not run on low compression low compression could mean a stuck or broke ring scored the cylinder wall ?
While you have the flywheel off look at and check the key way and key closely no dings of dents that is what sets the timing. When you put the flywheel back on look at the air gap between the The C-D (Capacitor Discharge) and the flywheel Insert .010 non-metallic gauge between C-D pack and magnets on the flywheel. this site helps explain the timing of the D engine and the c.D pack https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball25.pd
Hope this helps ?
Randy
#19
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
From your youtube video the spark looks intermittent to me. When you had that drill on it as fast as you were spinning it that thing should have been snapping and blue. the spark looks orangeish to me. I had a electric start driving be crazy with a weak spark an the spark plug wire had a small cut in it causing it to ground out every once and a while. changed the wire and new cj14 spark plug and was good as new. check that too. The spark should be hotter than that in my opinion. I would try a different plug. every mower that i have gotten this year with those E plugs i have changed to a champion cj14. Let me know what you come up with.
#20
P
peteclark3
Cool, thanks for that.. finally something I can check on the electrical. Will do for sure. I'll check all the wires..
P
peteclark3
From your youtube video the spark looks intermittent to me. When you had that drill on it as fast as you were spinning it that thing should have been snapping and blue. the spark looks orangeish to me. I had a electric start driving be crazy with a weak spark an the spark plug wire had a small cut in it causing it to ground out every once and a while. changed the wire and new cj14 spark plug and was good as new. check that too. The spark should be hotter than that in my opinion. I would try a different plug. every mower that i have gotten this year with those E plugs i have changed to a champion cj14. Let me know what you come up with.
Cool, thanks for that.. finally something I can check on the electrical. Will do for sure. I'll check all the wires..
#21
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
PHOTOS GALORE! Re: 8252 has bright spark, clean carb, etc.. won't start!
Hey folks, I took a bunch of photos that I thought could be my "problem areas" based on your feedback.. hoping you could check my crank seal, which is new (did I put it in upside down?) Noticed some damage I did to the piece that that crank seal sits in.. took photos of that for your review, and took photos of the muffler right after I pulled it off, in case it helps indicate a leak or something else.. also noticed a gasket on that piece that was torn apart, a gasket I couldn't find on partstree.com interestingly.. it was in the diagram but not on the parts list.
Here are the photos on dropbox.. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sifpr9xjbptv214/_Os_QXFWd9
Thank you all for your continued help!
Hey folks, I took a bunch of photos that I thought could be my "problem areas" based on your feedback.. hoping you could check my crank seal, which is new (did I put it in upside down?) Noticed some damage I did to the piece that that crank seal sits in.. took photos of that for your review, and took photos of the muffler right after I pulled it off, in case it helps indicate a leak or something else.. also noticed a gasket on that piece that was torn apart, a gasket I couldn't find on partstree.com interestingly.. it was in the diagram but not on the parts list.
Here are the photos on dropbox.. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sifpr9xjbptv214/_Os_QXFWd9
Thank you all for your continued help!
#22
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
The capstan/PTO gasket needs to be replaced for sure. if leaking this can cause compression issues also. The muffler gasket is shot too. this will just make it loud though. That coil looks rusty too. you need to wire brush or sandpaper it so it is making clean contact with the cdi bracket. After that i am no help with condenser and points because all my stuff has solid state. That rust on the coil can be a problem. The exhaust ports and muffler look great though. i would do a compression test also. The seal looks pretty good if you ask me.
#23
turfboy1997
turfboy1997
The flywheel key looks good so its not that. The seal is in the right way too. When you put the capstan/PTO cover back together use a light layer of oil or grease on the crank to make it slide easy so the seal does not pop out sliding down. That coil looks suspect to me. too bad you don't live closer i have 2 coils and condensers setting on my shelf collecting dust. I am not the biggest D fan in the world, but they are a lawn boy and the later technology would not have happened if it weren't for the previous models. They still are very neat and reliable! let me know if you need anything else.
#24
O
OMJ197709
O
OMJ197709
I have come across this thread twice now in google searches and while I usually don't join forums for various reasons I felt bad that you have not been able to solve this yet. Unless I missed something while reading through the posts this is where I would personally start and there are a few simple things that caught my eye.
1) What kind of plug is that anyway? It doesn't look like a CJ-14 of any form nor any equal to that I have ever seen. These won't run right nor will they even start on certain wrong plugs. And is it gapped correctly?
2) You said that you cleaned the points. Did you re-gap them properly after putting all of this back together? If so did you make sure that your keyway was pointing towards the carbureator and set the gap at the point where you see them open and close?
When you turn your crank you should see your points opening and closing. Use a gauge when they are at their closed point and set them properly.
3) People always seem to go to the reed plates right away without making sure the governor is properly adjusted. It sounds like you may have something sticking. That assembly is filthy. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned even the weights and the
whole nine. Make sure that your nylon collar is not burned up and sticking. These wear out. Before you tear it down though look at your governor rod in the non running position it should be sitting at 11 o clock position. Look in your carburetor and
make sure your choke is open (brass butterfly). Really the whole assembly all the way around is dirtry. Your coil has rust on it and also by cleaning this off and the magnets on your flywheel I with the combination of correct point, coil, gap I think you
will see a vast improvment. Clean the entire metal areas on the coil too not just the ends. You have grounds to think about not just where it runs along the flywheel. Back to the governor one thing I forgot to mention. If the governor rod is not in that
position when looking at the throttle shaft on the carb then you can adjust this by bending gently up on the end of the arm on the governor.
Quite honestly this mower is really dirty. It needs to be really taken apart especially under the whole flywheel area and properly cleaned up. You will be amazed at what that can do. These things are filthy and it can be expected that after 40 plus years things are going to start to stick. If you start with a clean mower then that eliminates anything being dirty. I would pull that flywheel off and take everything apart underneath. Governor, you name it. I assume you put the carburetor together right after cleaning but we all make mistakes so double check you didn't upside down the float. I have been working on these things for years and I still make boner moves from time to time. This mower will run again. Good luck
1) What kind of plug is that anyway? It doesn't look like a CJ-14 of any form nor any equal to that I have ever seen. These won't run right nor will they even start on certain wrong plugs. And is it gapped correctly?
2) You said that you cleaned the points. Did you re-gap them properly after putting all of this back together? If so did you make sure that your keyway was pointing towards the carbureator and set the gap at the point where you see them open and close?
When you turn your crank you should see your points opening and closing. Use a gauge when they are at their closed point and set them properly.
3) People always seem to go to the reed plates right away without making sure the governor is properly adjusted. It sounds like you may have something sticking. That assembly is filthy. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned even the weights and the
whole nine. Make sure that your nylon collar is not burned up and sticking. These wear out. Before you tear it down though look at your governor rod in the non running position it should be sitting at 11 o clock position. Look in your carburetor and
make sure your choke is open (brass butterfly). Really the whole assembly all the way around is dirtry. Your coil has rust on it and also by cleaning this off and the magnets on your flywheel I with the combination of correct point, coil, gap I think you
will see a vast improvment. Clean the entire metal areas on the coil too not just the ends. You have grounds to think about not just where it runs along the flywheel. Back to the governor one thing I forgot to mention. If the governor rod is not in that
position when looking at the throttle shaft on the carb then you can adjust this by bending gently up on the end of the arm on the governor.
Quite honestly this mower is really dirty. It needs to be really taken apart especially under the whole flywheel area and properly cleaned up. You will be amazed at what that can do. These things are filthy and it can be expected that after 40 plus years things are going to start to stick. If you start with a clean mower then that eliminates anything being dirty. I would pull that flywheel off and take everything apart underneath. Governor, you name it. I assume you put the carburetor together right after cleaning but we all make mistakes so double check you didn't upside down the float. I have been working on these things for years and I still make boner moves from time to time. This mower will run again. Good luck
#25
O
OMJ197709
O
OMJ197709
I have come across this thread twice now in google searches and while I usually don't join forums for various reasons I felt bad that you have not been able to solve this yet. Unless I missed something while reading through the posts this is where I would personally start and there are a few simple things that caught my eye.
1) What kind of plug is that anyway? It doesn't look like a CJ-14 of any form nor any equal to that I have ever seen. These won't run right nor will they even start on certain wrong plugs. And is it gapped correctly?
2) You said that you cleaned the points. Did you re-gap them properly after putting all of this back together? If so did you make sure that your keyway was pointing towards the carbureator and set the gap at the point where you see them open and close? When you turn your crank you should see your points opening and closing. Use a gauge when they are at their closed point and set them properly.
3) People always seem to go to the reed plates right away without making sure the governor is properly adjusted. It sounds like you may have something sticking. That assembly is filthy. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned even the weights and the whole nine. Make sure that your nylon collar is not burned up and sticking. These wear out. Before you tear it down though look at your governor rod in the non running position it should be sitting at 11 o clock position. Look in your carburetor and make sure your choke is open (brass butterfly). Really the whole assembly all the way around is dirtry. Your coil has rust on it and also by cleaning this off and the magnets on your flywheel I with the combination of correct point, coil, gap I think you will see a vast improvment. Clean the entire metal areas on the coil too not just the ends. You have grounds to think about not just where it runs along the flywheel. Back to the governor one thing I forgot to mention. If the governor rod is not in that position when looking at the throttle shaft on the carb then you can adjust this by bending gently up or down on the end of the arm on the governor. (where the rod hits the bottom of the arm).
Quite honestly this mower is really dirty. It needs to be really taken apart especially under the whole flywheel area and properly cleaned up. You will be amazed at what that can do. These things are filthy and it can be expected that after 40 plus years things are going to start to stick. If you start with a clean mower then that eliminates anything being dirty. I would pull that flywheel off and take everything apart underneath. Governor, you name it. I assume you put the carburetor together right after cleaning but we all make mistakes so double check you didn't upside down the float. I have been working on these things for years and I still make boner moves from time to time. This mower will run again. Good luck
Upon looking at your pictures I would guess those to be the original points and if not real close to it. They have not made the ones with the maroon centers in years. Unless they were lying about new for years somewhere. Either way they are wore right down. I also from looking at that picture see not even the smallest gap in those points and there should at least be something judging the position of the crank. Surprised you are getting any spark at all. I am starting to lean towards this being your problem. Get yourself a set of points and set the gaps properly. Make sure when you put your governor colllar/weights back on you line it properly with your flywheel key (which by the way is fine) as this marks the proper place for the right weight disribuition for the governor. By the way I am not knocking your mower for being dirty. I have just seen how much this can affect these things over the years.
1) What kind of plug is that anyway? It doesn't look like a CJ-14 of any form nor any equal to that I have ever seen. These won't run right nor will they even start on certain wrong plugs. And is it gapped correctly?
2) You said that you cleaned the points. Did you re-gap them properly after putting all of this back together? If so did you make sure that your keyway was pointing towards the carbureator and set the gap at the point where you see them open and close? When you turn your crank you should see your points opening and closing. Use a gauge when they are at their closed point and set them properly.
3) People always seem to go to the reed plates right away without making sure the governor is properly adjusted. It sounds like you may have something sticking. That assembly is filthy. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned even the weights and the whole nine. Make sure that your nylon collar is not burned up and sticking. These wear out. Before you tear it down though look at your governor rod in the non running position it should be sitting at 11 o clock position. Look in your carburetor and make sure your choke is open (brass butterfly). Really the whole assembly all the way around is dirtry. Your coil has rust on it and also by cleaning this off and the magnets on your flywheel I with the combination of correct point, coil, gap I think you will see a vast improvment. Clean the entire metal areas on the coil too not just the ends. You have grounds to think about not just where it runs along the flywheel. Back to the governor one thing I forgot to mention. If the governor rod is not in that position when looking at the throttle shaft on the carb then you can adjust this by bending gently up or down on the end of the arm on the governor. (where the rod hits the bottom of the arm).
Quite honestly this mower is really dirty. It needs to be really taken apart especially under the whole flywheel area and properly cleaned up. You will be amazed at what that can do. These things are filthy and it can be expected that after 40 plus years things are going to start to stick. If you start with a clean mower then that eliminates anything being dirty. I would pull that flywheel off and take everything apart underneath. Governor, you name it. I assume you put the carburetor together right after cleaning but we all make mistakes so double check you didn't upside down the float. I have been working on these things for years and I still make boner moves from time to time. This mower will run again. Good luck
Upon looking at your pictures I would guess those to be the original points and if not real close to it. They have not made the ones with the maroon centers in years. Unless they were lying about new for years somewhere. Either way they are wore right down. I also from looking at that picture see not even the smallest gap in those points and there should at least be something judging the position of the crank. Surprised you are getting any spark at all. I am starting to lean towards this being your problem. Get yourself a set of points and set the gaps properly. Make sure when you put your governor colllar/weights back on you line it properly with your flywheel key (which by the way is fine) as this marks the proper place for the right weight disribuition for the governor. By the way I am not knocking your mower for being dirty. I have just seen how much this can affect these things over the years.
#26
P
peteclark3
P
peteclark3
Thanks for joining to help me! This is really bumming out my 9 year old son (it's his mower), and me b/c we're still not able to get it running.. We just installed a brand new coil (magneto?) and the spark is bright blue now and not intermittent.. from what I can tell.. but I'll put in the correct plug next time I try. The plug that's in there is one of those EZ Start ones.. has a forked piece over the gap instead of just a single metal piece.. if that makes any sense (don't know the terminology).. as you can probably tell, I'm trying everything with this mower.
I believe I re-gapped the points correctly, I think I've done it twice now.. but maybe both times I did it wrong.. I used the 1958(?) - 19?? lawn boy repair guide I found online as my guide, a feeler gauge, etc.... but the fact that you're saying I'm supposed to set a gap when they are closed is confusing me a bit.. shouldn't they be closed when they're closed? They do definitely open and close as I turn the wheel..
So is it true that if I have spark, it doesn't necessarily mean my electrical is good b/c it could be sparking at the wrong time? I thought if the elec was bad, I'd just know because I'd see no spark. However if just seeing spark isn't enough, perhaps this is my problem! I've re assembled it so many times, again by the pictures in the lawn boy service manual, I don't think I did something wrong, but you know how it is when you've done something over and over.. easy to miss something, or continually do it wrong!
Someone mentioned the PTO/Capstan gasket.. which one is that? Is it the one I pictured above that's near the crank seal that's worn to pieces? If so, interestingly enough I cannot find that part (gasket or the metal part) on a parts list.. is there any type of gasket maker gel or otherwise that I can use instead? Or does someone have the part number?
I'll definitely clean it up for sure, but if you or someone could let me know about the PTO/Capstan gasket (what it is, and if it's the one that's clearly broken apart, can I use something in place of the actual gasket)... and let me know about the spark question above, as well as the gap question, I'll have more to try.. thank you so much again!
Oh and one more thing! We actually cut the cable that prevents the mower from starting when the self propel is engaged, it was causing a lot of problems with the pull starter. I don't see any kill wires at all through there, and there's spark so I guess it's not a kill, but just thought I'd mention that too b/c that's something we did right around when this mower went down.
Pete
I believe I re-gapped the points correctly, I think I've done it twice now.. but maybe both times I did it wrong.. I used the 1958(?) - 19?? lawn boy repair guide I found online as my guide, a feeler gauge, etc.... but the fact that you're saying I'm supposed to set a gap when they are closed is confusing me a bit.. shouldn't they be closed when they're closed? They do definitely open and close as I turn the wheel..
So is it true that if I have spark, it doesn't necessarily mean my electrical is good b/c it could be sparking at the wrong time? I thought if the elec was bad, I'd just know because I'd see no spark. However if just seeing spark isn't enough, perhaps this is my problem! I've re assembled it so many times, again by the pictures in the lawn boy service manual, I don't think I did something wrong, but you know how it is when you've done something over and over.. easy to miss something, or continually do it wrong!
Someone mentioned the PTO/Capstan gasket.. which one is that? Is it the one I pictured above that's near the crank seal that's worn to pieces? If so, interestingly enough I cannot find that part (gasket or the metal part) on a parts list.. is there any type of gasket maker gel or otherwise that I can use instead? Or does someone have the part number?
I'll definitely clean it up for sure, but if you or someone could let me know about the PTO/Capstan gasket (what it is, and if it's the one that's clearly broken apart, can I use something in place of the actual gasket)... and let me know about the spark question above, as well as the gap question, I'll have more to try.. thank you so much again!
Oh and one more thing! We actually cut the cable that prevents the mower from starting when the self propel is engaged, it was causing a lot of problems with the pull starter. I don't see any kill wires at all through there, and there's spark so I guess it's not a kill, but just thought I'd mention that too b/c that's something we did right around when this mower went down.
Pete
I have come across this thread twice now in google searches and while I usually don't join forums for various reasons I felt bad that you have not been able to solve this yet. Unless I missed something while reading through the posts this is where I would personally start and there are a few simple things that caught my eye.
1) What kind of plug is that anyway? It doesn't look like a CJ-14 of any form nor any equal to that I have ever seen. These won't run right nor will they even start on certain wrong plugs. And is it gapped correctly?
2) You said that you cleaned the points. Did you re-gap them properly after putting all of this back together? If so did you make sure that your keyway was pointing towards the carbureator and set the gap at the point where you see them open and close? When you turn your crank you should see your points opening and closing. Use a gauge when they are at their closed point and set them properly.
3) People always seem to go to the reed plates right away without making sure the governor is properly adjusted. It sounds like you may have something sticking. That assembly is filthy. It needs to be taken apart and cleaned even the weights and the whole nine. Make sure that your nylon collar is not burned up and sticking. These wear out. Before you tear it down though look at your governor rod in the non running position it should be sitting at 11 o clock position. Look in your carburetor and make sure your choke is open (brass butterfly). Really the whole assembly all the way around is dirtry. Your coil has rust on it and also by cleaning this off and the magnets on your flywheel I with the combination of correct point, coil, gap I think you will see a vast improvment. Clean the entire metal areas on the coil too not just the ends. You have grounds to think about not just where it runs along the flywheel. Back to the governor one thing I forgot to mention. If the governor rod is not in that position when looking at the throttle shaft on the carb then you can adjust this by bending gently up or down on the end of the arm on the governor. (where the rod hits the bottom of the arm).
Quite honestly this mower is really dirty. It needs to be really taken apart especially under the whole flywheel area and properly cleaned up. You will be amazed at what that can do. These things are filthy and it can be expected that after 40 plus years things are going to start to stick. If you start with a clean mower then that eliminates anything being dirty. I would pull that flywheel off and take everything apart underneath. Governor, you name it. I assume you put the carburetor together right after cleaning but we all make mistakes so double check you didn't upside down the float. I have been working on these things for years and I still make boner moves from time to time. This mower will run again. Good luck
Upon looking at your pictures I would guess those to be the original points and if not real close to it. They have not made the ones with the maroon centers in years. Unless they were lying about new for years somewhere. Either way they are wore right down. I also from looking at that picture see not even the smallest gap in those points and there should at least be something judging the position of the crank. Surprised you are getting any spark at all. I am starting to lean towards this being your problem. Get yourself a set of points and set the gaps properly. Make sure when you put your governor colllar/weights back on you line it properly with your flywheel key (which by the way is fine) as this marks the proper place for the right weight disribuition for the governor. By the way I am not knocking your mower for being dirty. I have just seen how much this can affect these things over the years.