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54 inch riding mower just clicks, won't start
#1
J
JP98
J
JP98
My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Attachments
#2
StarTech
StarTech
Are you saying the starter solenoid is the one clicking or are just hearing a click as you turn the key?
#3
J
JP98
J
JP98
I hear the click when I turn the key.Are you saying the starter solenoid is the one clicking or are just hearing a click as you turn the key?
#4
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Your first picture looks like the PTO button is pulled up. So check the pto knob to make sure it is down.
#5
J
JP98
Maybe it's the safety switch? Any way to bypass it just to test??
J
JP98
I was testing it up and down just to see. I also hear the clicking with PTO switch up. I don't know if that's normal. I know it needs to be down to start it.Your first picture looks like the PTO button is pulled up. So check the pto knob to make sure it is down.
Maybe it's the safety switch? Any way to bypass it just to test??
#6
S
SeniorCitizen
S
SeniorCitizen
I believe that Bad Boy has a elect. operated fuel valve at the carburetor .
Those sometimes click when the key is turned to on and off .
Those sometimes click when the key is turned to on and off .
#8
J
JP98
J
JP98
No verdict. I bought this mower used from an individual. It's several years old so I doubt it's under warranty. Any suggestions??Has a verdict been reached ?
If not , is it still within the warranty period ?
#9
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
what did you do to verify the battery was good?
#10
J
JP98
J
JP98
Just for fun, I charged it all night. The charger indicated it's good. Turned the ignition on and tried to start it. Same result. I suppose I can take it to an auto parts store and have them test it to be 100% sure. And again, I touched/shorted the starter solenoid and it cranked. The engine turns like it wants to starts. Does this mean the starter is good? Does this mean the battery is good? Is it possible the starter solenoid I installed is no good? Would that be the symptom of a bad one? It's new in the box and never been used but it's been sitting around a while as a spare. Also, I ordered a safety switch from Amazon. It should be here in a couple of days. I guess I'll try that next. Any other suggestions? Thanks.what did you do to verify the battery was good?
#12
S
slomo
S
slomo
Batteries need LOAD tested. All electrical circuits need load tested. The old school carbon pile testers are preferred to the new resistance type testers. I've seen where the newer resistance types like Autozone use say the battery is good. On a carbon pile, she is bad and won't support the load. Yes test the battery, some way.Just for fun, I charged it all night. The charger indicated it's good. Turned the ignition on and tried to start it. Same result. I suppose I can take it to an auto parts store and have them test it to be 100% sure.
Tells you the battery has enough juice to crank and you got juice across the solenoid.And again, I touched/shorted the starter solenoid and it cranked.
Seems to me the starter is trying to start the engine, all in a testing type of way.The engine turns like it wants to starts. Does this mean the starter is good?
It's trying.......Does this mean the battery is good?
Yes, all new parts require TESTING.Is it possible the starter solenoid I installed is no good?
When 12 volts is applied to the control side of the solenoid, solenoid clicks and passes battery power to the starter. That is a good one. If yours is not doing this then you found something.Would that be the symptom of a bad one?
#13
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most techs here have learned this the hard way. You might want to try this procedure I use, but you must have patience and maybe an assistant.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words
#14
S
slomo
Now you have to test this new Chinese switch from scamazon. You don't just whip out the credit card and order parts and expect, your mower to be fixed.
S
slomo
Did you test the old one? What did you find?Also, I ordered a safety switch from Amazon. It should be here in a couple of days. I guess I'll try that next. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Now you have to test this new Chinese switch from scamazon. You don't just whip out the credit card and order parts and expect, your mower to be fixed.
#15
J
JP98
J
JP98
Thank you so much. I will try your suggestions. I really do appreciate it. I was just frustrated. I'm no mechanic but I'm trying to fix my own stuff to save money and hopefully learn something in the process.Won’t get love with a comment like that, you must think the techs here have a crystal ball and have seen everything. Electrical problems are the toughest to solve, especially when we are not standing next to you with a strong drink, which you supplied, to see exactly what is going on. Most techs here have learned this the hard way. You might want to try this procedure I use, but you must have patience and maybe an assistant.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words
#16
J
JP98
J
JP98
I hear you. I have scamazon prime so I can return anything I purchase at no cost, even shipping is free.Did you test the old one? What did you find?
Now you have to test this new Chinese switch from scamazon. You don't just whip out the credit card and order parts and expect, your mower to be fixed.
#17
J
JP98
J
JP98
Thank you brother! Much appreciated. I will go over everything again so make sure I did it correctly and not miss anything.Batteries need LOAD tested. All electrical circuits need load tested. The old school carbon pile testers are preferred to the new resistance type testers. I've seen where the newer resistance types like Autozone use say the battery is good. On a carbon pile, she is bad and won't support the load. Yes test the battery, some way.
Tells you the battery has enough juice to crank and you got juice across the solenoid.
Seems to me the starter is trying to start the engine, all in a testing type of way.
It's trying.......
Yes, all new parts require TESTING.
When 12 volts is applied to the control side of the solenoid, solenoid clicks and passes battery power to the starter. That is a good one. If yours is not doing this then you found something.
#19
P
pritcharddesign
P
pritcharddesign
Check fuses.
Clean out clippings everywhere, as much as possible, including underneath.
Check, or have someone check, all safety switches, if you have them.
Clean out clippings everywhere, as much as possible, including underneath.
Check, or have someone check, all safety switches, if you have them.
I can't get any love around here. No other suggestions??
#20
C
ChrisBFRPKY
C
ChrisBFRPKY
I have a 2011 BAD Boy MZ that acted funny like that. After checking all the safety stuff (that wasn't already bypassed), it ended up being a relay on the block stuffed down under the ignition key console/removable plate. Rather than playing musical relays I replaced all six relays with new ones. (A habit I highly recommend) The mower started as it should. I won't throw stones at anyone because I had replaced the starter solenoid on that one too before finding it wasn't the actual problem. Sometimes we're so sure of ourselves we tend to jump straight to the obvious but in all fairness I didn't even realize it HAD relays until I opened the console to test the ignition switch. Education is fun.
#21
J
jviews12
J
jviews12
test test test. I understand frustration, but what you have bought/replaced could have been tested and not replaced. You can bypass some items in the circuit to prove they are/are not the problem. Verify that the "arms" safety switches have not failed. These go bad at times due to harsh use. You will get it. Best with a friend even if he is not the most capable, he will ask "dumb" questions and find the problem. save original oem parts as they "may" be good, and probably better than amazon replacement "new" parts. You should be able to bench test these parts later. What about dirty. grease/rust on contacts.
#22
C
ChuckBJr
C
ChuckBJr
Bypass each safety switch one at a time and try again PTO, Brake, Seat - there searchable videos on most of these bypasses. Buy a multi-meter and TEST the ignition switch don't purchase until you have tested -
Do all the free to cheapest and simple tests first as they are usually the cause of most failures.
#23
S
spetrilli
S
spetrilli
Are you saying the engine cranks but won’t start or you just get a click? If engine cranks but won’t start check to make sure the manual choke is working. If it just clicks, methodically check every wire connector and safety switch… there are a lot of them, not just the seat switch.
Check all the connections underneath the seat.
Check all the connections underneath the seat.
#24
U
Utopia Texasi
U
Utopia Texasi
Just because a battery shows ok on a charger does not mean it is good. Take the battery to a auto parts store and have them use a true battery tester that will put it under a load and show it’s true condition. Also take all battery cables off, shine up, and reinstall. Especially the ground cable to the frame.
#26
T
TheWB
Mine did the same thing, after that fired right up.
T
TheWB
Clean the battery terminals/cable ends as well as the bolts that secure it.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Mine did the same thing, after that fired right up.
#28
B
bentrim
B
bentrim
You say it "just clicks when the key is turned" Is that to the run position or start? The fuel solenoid and other relays will click in the on position, the starter solenoid when turned to the start position will only click if it is bad, because the internal contacts are corroded and don't make contact. When you jumped the solenoid did you jump the large post to large post or a large post to the small post? Put your finger on the starter solenoid to see if it is clicking.You say jumping the solenoid turnd the engine over. The indicates the battery and electrical system is good for the starter to run but the wiring to the solenoid is not working..
Now if you do not have the starter solenoid clicking get out your manual and find the wires responsible for the starting circuit, grab your VOM or voltage tester and start checking the wires where the switch gets its power from, check each switch (PTO steering levers, brake, and some manufacturers also put a seat switch in the circuit) along the path to the starter solenoid. Each connection should have votage or a light. You may also work in reverse by starting at the solenoid and woring back to the key switch.
Find the problem before ordering parts, you could have the price of a new machine by using the shotgun approach and still not have the problem fixed.
Now if you do not have the starter solenoid clicking get out your manual and find the wires responsible for the starting circuit, grab your VOM or voltage tester and start checking the wires where the switch gets its power from, check each switch (PTO steering levers, brake, and some manufacturers also put a seat switch in the circuit) along the path to the starter solenoid. Each connection should have votage or a light. You may also work in reverse by starting at the solenoid and woring back to the key switch.
Find the problem before ordering parts, you could have the price of a new machine by using the shotgun approach and still not have the problem fixed.
#29
G
Gord Baker
Then start checking safety switches. No stuck plunger etc. Check Battery Ground to Frame.
G
Gord Baker
Disconnect the present Battery and try a known Good Battery. Engage Parking Brake, handles in Start Position.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Then start checking safety switches. No stuck plunger etc. Check Battery Ground to Frame.
#30
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Is your starter solenoid a 3 terminal or 4 terminal?
(does it have two small tabs (for small push on connectors) or just one?)
(does it have two small tabs (for small push on connectors) or just one?)
#31
R
RevB
R
RevB
If it cranks when jumped, what made you think it was the solenoid? It has to work to actuate the Bendix.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#32
R
RevB
R
RevB
If this machine has any time at all on it, and a lot of starts, the starter commutator get glazed and the brushes don't make adequate contact. All you'll get is a sight click from the relay or the stronger one from solenoid. Easy fix. Remove and disassemble starter. 600 grit paper to clean the commutator. And these starters are not hermetically sealed. All sorts of dust, dirt and debris get into the inner case after years of use. Just because it cranked once doesn't mean it will do it again, consistently.Just for fun, I charged it all night. The charger indicated it's good. Turned the ignition on and tried to start it. Same result. I suppose I can take it to an auto parts store and have them test it to be 100% sure. And again, I touched/shorted the starter solenoid and it cranked. The engine turns like it wants to starts. Does this mean the starter is good? Does this mean the battery is good? Is it possible the starter solenoid I installed is no good? Would that be the symptom of a bad one? It's new in the box and never been used but it's been sitting around a while as a spare. Also, I ordered a safety switch from Amazon. It should be here in a couple of days. I guess I'll try that next. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
#33
J
Johner
J
Johner
Take the plugs out see it the machine turns over, if it does it has become Hydro locked (maybe a better word) I did get a more Amp Hour battery and pulling back the throttle when starting , as it turns over then increase throttle. Helped with my issue. My problem is the machine wants to run backwards after turning the off key, cold days works perfect. Yes there is no dirt around the fins.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#34
D
Dwayne Oxford
D
Dwayne Oxford
Feel each relay as you try starting. When you find the clicker, jump it and try again. Bear in mind that all "new" means is it MIGHT work.
#35
S
Savage3
S
Savage3
Sounds like the battery may be ok on voltage, but, not delivering the required amperage. The internal resistance may be high and your charger will not reveal the problem.
Try another battery, do you have a known good spare?
How old is the battery? Usually they have a sticker on them.
Quite simply, with the information provided in your post, the battery has failed or the current is not being delivered to the solenoid.
Check to ensure the black wire is clean and tight where it connects to the frame or engine. In addition, clean and tighten both cables where they attach to the posts.
Good luck friend
Try another battery, do you have a known good spare?
How old is the battery? Usually they have a sticker on them.
Quite simply, with the information provided in your post, the battery has failed or the current is not being delivered to the solenoid.
Check to ensure the black wire is clean and tight where it connects to the frame or engine. In addition, clean and tighten both cables where they attach to the posts.
Good luck friend
#36
D
digr
D
digr
In the beginning of the post he said it would turn over when jumping the solenoid so how could it be a bad battery or ground.
#37
poncho144
poncho144
I had a similar prob with my Husqvarna yard tractor. Found that the Lighting circuit had an open wire of the 3 for Headlights. Seams to be a interlock to prevent starting the mower if part of the electrics are compromised. Also, makes trouble shoot'n more difficult for us DIY's.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#38
TiIngot
Battery terminals were clean BUT the positive cable attached to battery was rusted. Thoroughly cleaned cable end and bingo, it starts.
TiIngot
Just had same problem. Did the same thing, bought a solenoid that fixed nothing. Also jumped from battery to starter and got spark as you did.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Battery terminals were clean BUT the positive cable attached to battery was rusted. Thoroughly cleaned cable end and bingo, it starts.
#39
M
meri0809
M
meri0809
Like you I am a lay person who works on my mower. Just went thru a very similar problem with my Cub Cadet GT1554. I replaced the starter, starter solenoid, pulled and cleaned the fuel solenoid, checked wires, had O'Reilly's check the battery etc. All I was getting was a click by the fuel solenoid when I tried to start the engine. A friend came over to look at the mower and did a bunch of diagnostic testing: Battery to solenoid, battery to starter, cked the fuse, all good. Pulled the ignition switch, which has a dead post. I would go back to your ignition switch and test the posts using a light tester. You could also try jumping from the starter to see if the engine will kick over.My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#40
G
g-man57
G
g-man57
As many above have said, clean cable ends. My theory of small engine work, and I admit, I'm an amateur is to start with the easy stuff first. You could replace all the parts and have the same problem if the battery cables are corroded. Clean battery terminals and cable ends with the battery tool - stiff bristles on the brush. Re-install with a little dielectric grease. If you still have the issue, start cleaning connection 'down stream' in the starting circuit. Switches are always a source of wear. A good multi-meter can test most wires and switches without removing them. If you have current coming out of the switch, keep working down stream.
It's fine to jump across the solenoid - but no workee solenoid can be a bad contact upstream. So for example, if jumping a solenoid doesn't work, be sure you have juice TO the solenoid. Who knows, it may be some expensive electrical part, but it's usually something simple that occurs simply from use - dirt, corrosion, rust, etc.
It's fine to jump across the solenoid - but no workee solenoid can be a bad contact upstream. So for example, if jumping a solenoid doesn't work, be sure you have juice TO the solenoid. Who knows, it may be some expensive electrical part, but it's usually something simple that occurs simply from use - dirt, corrosion, rust, etc.
#42
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
Clean the battery posts first. I am thinking your jump is making a better connection than the battery posts.
#43
A
albert Hampton
if it cranks you have a bad battery, ! the charger will indicate is a full charge but not always true .
A
albert Hampton
My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
make sure all cables are clean and connections are tight , tighten the screw are bolt that wholes the solenoid on. Try it again , if it still clicks . try the jumper cables againMy 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
if it cranks you have a bad battery, ! the charger will indicate is a full charge but not always true .
#44
B
Bossman12
B
Bossman12
I have a Craftsman ZTS6000 that was doing the same thing last season. I see you said in your first post that it would crank when you jumped it. A couple of things come to mind that I discovered.
1. Make sure you clean the battery terminals and the cable ends real good. The fact that jumping seems to work could indicate corrosion resistance that is overcome by jamming more current down the line.
2. Try jumping around the positive line from the battery to the next connection point, if you can do it safely. This can indicate a bad cable that has interior corrosion so it isn't delivering full current to the starter. Same on the negative side to ground. You may have a bad cable.
My experience is that bad cables or connections are often overlooked while relays, switches, and starters are more often blamed. You can't tell if a cable is good just by looking at it. You also cannot rely solely on reading the voltage through a cable. It may read 12.5 VDC but can't deliver the amount of current needed to drive a starter.
1. Make sure you clean the battery terminals and the cable ends real good. The fact that jumping seems to work could indicate corrosion resistance that is overcome by jamming more current down the line.
2. Try jumping around the positive line from the battery to the next connection point, if you can do it safely. This can indicate a bad cable that has interior corrosion so it isn't delivering full current to the starter. Same on the negative side to ground. You may have a bad cable.
My experience is that bad cables or connections are often overlooked while relays, switches, and starters are more often blamed. You can't tell if a cable is good just by looking at it. You also cannot rely solely on reading the voltage through a cable. It may read 12.5 VDC but can't deliver the amount of current needed to drive a starter.
#45
M
mcleod55
M
mcleod55
My Toro was doing the same thing. I ordered a new Solenoid from Amazon... I went ahead and bought a new battery and the mower started right up. So it could still be the battery.I can't get any love around here. No other suggestions??
#46
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Does anyone read the entire thread before posting? 45 posts and over half keep repeating check connections and battery. Constantly repeating the same solutions is not providing useful information and can get very frustrating.
#47
M
macdoesit
M
macdoesit
There are 2 ground cables, one from engine to frame, one from battery to engine or frame. sandpaper all ground and positive connections.
#48
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
I would use a electrical tester and do some logical testing. (instead of farting around)
You can get one at wally world and read the instruction manual about how to use.
You can get one at wally world and read the instruction manual about how to use.
#49
G
GearHead36
G
GearHead36
If the engine spins over when you short across the solenoid, then:
- the battery is good
- the battery terminal connections are good.
- the engine is not hydro locked.
I'd suspect a safety switch. Do you have a test light? If so, check to see if 12V from the ignition switch is getting to the solenoid. There are YT videos out there detailing how. Basically, disconnect the small wires from the solenoid, then hook up the leads from the test light to those wires. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. The test light should light up. If it doesn't, then the problem is upstream of that. Either a bad ignition switch, bad safety switch, bad relay, bad wiring, etc.
- the battery is good
- the battery terminal connections are good.
- the engine is not hydro locked.
I'd suspect a safety switch. Do you have a test light? If so, check to see if 12V from the ignition switch is getting to the solenoid. There are YT videos out there detailing how. Basically, disconnect the small wires from the solenoid, then hook up the leads from the test light to those wires. Turn the ignition switch to the start position. The test light should light up. If it doesn't, then the problem is upstream of that. Either a bad ignition switch, bad safety switch, bad relay, bad wiring, etc.
#50
S
SCAGCAT
S
SCAGCAT
My 54 inch Bad Boy MZ Magnum zero turn riding mower quit on me. It's model BMG5425KO. I turn the key and it just clicks. Battery is good. When I jumped/shorted the starter solenoid, it cranks. I thought it might be a bad starter solenoid, so I replaced it since I had a spare one. Still nothing. It just clicks. I bought an ignition switch from Amazon. Same result. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Attachments
#52
L
LMPPLUS
L
LMPPLUS
What's the engine model? Check and see if you are getting 12v to the control wire at the base of the solenoid, if you are check for 12v on the starter side of solenoid.
#53
D
dljackso
D
dljackso
I tried to read all the posts. Rivet and a few others gave you good, systematic advice on how to trouble shoot in order. I did not see a response from you if you tried the steps in order and results. If you want to learn how to troubleshoot and repair you need to pick one the suggestions given, like his, and report back the details of what you found. You may get lucky following those posts randomly suggesting various part replacements that are random but you won't learn any thing to help with the next problem. Also it can be a waste of money and time. Granted Amazon gives refunds but you are now returning used parts. Pick Rivets or one of the other mechanics suggestion that take you through a full process and report back. Best of luck to youThank you so much. I will try your suggestions. I really do appreciate it. I was just frustrated. I'm no mechanic but I'm trying to fix my own stuff to save money and hopefully learn something in the process.
#54
J
JP98
J
JP98
My apologies. I have not tried any of the suggestions yet. We went to visit family out of town this past weekend to celebrate the 4th of July. Ended up staying a few more days due to a minor family emergency. I should be back home this coming weekend and will start troubleshooting. I really do appreciate all the input!
#55
J
jehantqs
J
jehantqs
I don't know when my mower does that it is because the battery cable needs cleaning and or the clip on the positive is broken or needs cleaning. good luck
#56
J
Jim Pritchrd
J
Jim Pritchrd
With the starter working when shorted you have a safety switch problem. Either the seat switch or brake safety switch.
Also could be PTO switch but you said it "clicked" with PTO in either position so to me that rules it out.
Also could be PTO switch but you said it "clicked" with PTO in either position so to me that rules it out.
#57
S
slomo
S
slomo
If a relay or solenoid clicks, that doesn't mean you will have 100% current transfer from the battery to the starter. So saying I hear the relay click and you call it good, well not all the time.
#58
S
slomo
Example, starter solenoid contacts might be electrically worn down or burnt away not allowing 100% current or amperage transfer. Same as the dome light works but the car won't start.
PTO clicking can be heard and not be transferring power or electrical continuity.
S
slomo
Again "clicking" is not a 100% conclusive test guys.With the starter working when shorted you have a safety switch problem. Either the seat switch or brake safety switch.
Also could be PTO switch but you said it "clicked" with PTO in either position so to me that rules it out.
Example, starter solenoid contacts might be electrically worn down or burnt away not allowing 100% current or amperage transfer. Same as the dome light works but the car won't start.
PTO clicking can be heard and not be transferring power or electrical continuity.
#59
S
slomo
S
slomo
Please explain.........Get this from amazon. It goes under the selenoid. This is a common problem.
#60
S
SCAGCAT
S
SCAGCAT
I had the clicking problem. Turns out there was only 7 volts at the red wire when the clicking occurred. After installing the relay from amazon it never clicked again. Started every time. I found out about this from a different forum.Please explain.........