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I dont know the model number yet, its a Horizontal shaft, 5.5 horse briggs OHV,
My brother is dropping it off tomorrow, it runs, smokes like a forest fire blue smoke, then sorta clears up, and then smokes more, then clears up then smokes.
Im thinking Rings and Valve seals. Im sure i can figure it out, any other input from the symptoms would be appreciated.
:wink:

May need valve guides. Most of these little Briggs engines just use bored holes in the aluminum block. Briggs does make replacement bronze valve guides but you have to bore the block. You can tell when you get the valve springs off if it needs guides or not.

edit: I missed the OHV part. I don't know whether those have replaceable valve guides or not.

Depends on the type engine. An un-sleeved engine might be suffering from lack of lubrication in today's newer oils. If it's an IC engine it might be just wear and tear, or a bad air filter letting in dirt, scoring the cylinder. But first just make sure the oil level is correct.

Model # is 110412 0154 E1
I downloaded the manual for it from briggs, Oil level is correct, to top of the bottom fill hole (specified in manual) It seems to have decent compre ssion, spark plug is oily after running.

Okay, head is off, cylinder is alot better shape than expected, no scoring what so ever.
i can move the piston side to side, revealing about a 2 too 3 thousandths gap between piston and wall? whaddya think? Normal? or not, assuming not.
valves are pretty oily, more than what any other engine would have.

Sounds like you had a blown head gasket. Any pics of it?

Head gasket was in good shape, the valve seal looked dry rotted almost, it had tiny little cracks in it.. Never seen one like it.
The intake valve was very very oily, exhaust valve not as much.
I'll probably order the top end gasket set for it, and waiting on a reply on what to do with the rings, and piston movement.

How loose is the intake valve in its guide?

The valve fit in nice and tight. Although it does have a place or to where it looks pretty Wore.

I'm laying in bed with a cold right now and can't be up and go take pics.
I know, poor pitiful me.:laughing:

Briggs is being no help in this, i gave them my model # and code date, and SPECIFICALLY asked them for piston to cylinderwall clearance, ring gap, and standard bore size, they reply to my email with torque specs. :confused2:
If any one knows these, let me have it!

Series 11000 OHV horiz specs

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Armature Air Gap .010 - .014 in. (.25 - .36 mm) Crankshaft End Play .002 - .028 in. (.05 - .71 mm) Spark Plug Gap .030 in. (.76 mm) Valve Clearance – Intake .004 - .006 in. (.10 - .15 mm) Valve Clearance – Exhaust .009 - .011 in. (.23 - .28 mm)
FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TORQUE Air Cleaner Base / Backplate 40 lb-in. (5 Nm) Armature 30 lb-in. (3 Nm) Blower Housing 90 lb-in. (10 Nm) Bracket to Carburetor (Snow) 45 lb-in. (5 Nm) Carburetor Bowl Screw 90 lb-in. (10 Nm) Carburetor to Cylinder Head 85 lb-in. (10 Nm) Connecting Rod 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Control Bracket 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Control Panel Trim 40 lb-in. (5 Nm) Crankcase Cover 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Cylinder Head 220 lb-in. (25 Nm) Cylinder Head Plate 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Cylinder Shield 30 lb-in. (3 Nm) Exhaust Manifold / Adapter 180 lb-in. (20 Nm) Flywheel Nut 100 lb-ft. (135 Nm) Flywheel Fan 180 lb-in. (20 Nm) Flywheel Guard 30 lb-in. (3 Nm) Fuel Tank 85 lb-in. (10 Nm) Governor Lever Nut 45 lb-in. (5 Nm) Muffler 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Muffler Support Bracket 45 lb-in. (5 Nm) Oil Drain Cap – Front (Snow) 130 lb-in. (15 Nm) Oil Drain Plug – Side 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Oil Fill Tube 50 lb-in. (6 Nm) Rewind Starter 30 lb-in. (3 Nm) Rocker Arm Stud 100 lb-in. (11 Nm) Rocker Ball Set Screw or Nut 45 lb-in. (5 Nm) Spark Plug 180 lb-in. (20 Nm) Starter Cover 20 lb-in. (2 Nm) Starter Motor 140 lb-in. (16 Nm) Rocker Cover 55 lb-in. (6 Nm) Snow Hood 40 lb-in. (5 Nm) Snow Shield

REJECT DIMENSIONS STANDARD SIZE REJECT SIZE CYLINDER Main Bearing .876 in. (22.25 mm) .878 in. (22.30 mm) Camshaft Bearing .5008 in. (12.72 mm) .5040 in. (12.80 mm) Bore Diameter 2.688 in. (68.28 mm) 2.692 in. (68.38 mm) Bore Out-Of-Round N/A .0015 in. (.04 mm) CYLINDER HEAD Valve Guide .249 in. (6.32 mm) .267 in. (6.78 mm) Intake Valve Stem Diameter .247 in. (6.28 mm) .244 in. (6.20 mm) Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter .247 in. (6.28 mm) .244 in. (6.20 mm) CYLINDER COVER Main Bearing 1.063 in. (27.00 mm) 1.065 in. (27.05 mm) Camshaft Bearing .501 in. (12.72 mm) .504 in. (12.80 mm) CRANKSHAFT Crank Pin Journal 1.098 in. (27.89 mm) 1.097 in. (27.86 mm) Mag-Side Journal .874 in. (22.20 mm) .873 in. (22.17 mm) PTO-Side Journal 1.061 in. (26.96 mm) 1.060 in. (26.92 mm) CAMSHAFT Mag-Side Journal .499 in. (12.67 mm) .498 in. (12.65 mm) PTO-Side Journal .499 in. (12.67 mm) .498 in. (12.65 mm) Intake Lobes 1.112 in. (28.24 mm) 1.098 in. (27.29 mm) Exhaust Lobes 1.112 in. (28.24 mm) 1.098 in. (27.29 mm) CONNECTING ROD Crank Pin Bearing 1.100 in. (37.06 mm) 1.102 in. (27.99 mm) Piston Pin Bearing .6258 in. (15.89 mm) .6268 in. (15.92 mm) PISTON Piston Pin .6247 in. (15.86 mm) .6242 in. (15.85 mm) Piston Pin Bearing .6258 in. (15.89 mm) .6268 in. (15.92 mm) Ring End Gap (Top) .006-.010 in. (.15-.25 mm) .020 in. (.51 mm) Ring End Gap (Middle) .012-.020 in. (.30-.50 mm) .030 in. (.76 mm) Ring End Gap (Oil Control) .020-.025 in. (.50-.63 mm) .035 in. (.89 mm) Ring Land Clearance (Top) .002-.003 in. (.05-.08 mm) .004 in. (.10 mm) Ring Land Clearance (Middle) .002-.003 in. (.05-.08 mm) .004 in. (.10 mm) Ring Land Clearance (Oil Control) .002-.004 in. (.03-.07 mm) .005 in. (.12 mm)

Thank you thank you thank you!:thumbsup:

I got the head gasket set in, with valve seal. The valve seal i received is different from the original one, and different from the one pictured in the parts diagram. i made sure there wasn't another kit for a certain code date either.



The seal off of the engine is the flat "washer" looking one, and the new one i received is the raised one.


:confused2:

This engine is wooping my butt. Still cant find the right valve seal.
I have called Briggs and Stratton, and emailed every other parts store, with my model number and code, they tell me the part number is 795440, the 795440 seal looks nothing like the seal that came off.


1. Are the valve guides supposed to be even. The exhaust guide is raised up a little less than half inch or so. and the intake valve guid is flat/even with the head surface. What position are they supposed to be in.





The flat valve seal is the one i originally took off.
and you can see above the guides are un even. are they supposed to be raised, or even with the head surface?

Was the valve gasket kit you ordered and got a 791798, which had the wrong seal put in it. The raised valve seal you got is not #795440, looks more like a 697338 or 820041 or 690698. The 795440 is a flat seal like the one you took off. You may have to order the seal separately.

Yep, I got the 791798.I
Will go ahead and order it separately.
Thanks Rivets!

Apparently 799540 is a raised seal.
Got the one I ordered in today.
I'm tired of this.

Hello,

Your story with these seals looks strange.
I work on a similar engine OHV design (126300, but I have another issue) and I also have the same flat washer style seal.

I checked with your number 110412-0154-E1 there https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...ManualSearch.html?searchrequested=110412-0154 and the manual give reference 692044

However, if you search with this you come either with a raised or a washer style seal... but the question can the raised one work too ?
Does it fit in the rocker plate so it stay in place ?

Because when you look here they offer the washer or raised style as an alternative to one other : https://www.kramp.com/do/action/Pro...il+seal&langId=-1&productId=285633&storeId=80

Scrub, I think I gave you bad info, sorry must be my age. The raised seal is the valve seal you need. The flat seal has been superseded by the raised seal. Again I apologize for my mistake.

Makes sense... as the mower I talked above is quite old (20y) it has his original washer seal... so if I replace it I will got the raised one !

Even the raised seal is too big.there is about a oh, I don t know. But there is a gap between the seal and the valve itself to big for proper sealing, and the brass part has no place to seat properly.