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The both L and H are limited. The H was turned as far as the limiter would allow it. Customer just wanted new primer lines, so that's all I did. (I've been griped out lately for doing a little more than another customer wanted so I'm sticking to doing just what I'm told to do)
Anywho, this carb looks like a booger to get on and off, So I put a little force on the H, and something gave. It wasn't the screw breaking, or the threads stripping. But I can turn the H now. And was able to adjust the throttle bogging out of it.

Let it set for a couple of hours, fired it back up and started getting the throttle bogging again. So, I turned the H open not even 1/8th turn and it cleared up.

Is there something I'm missing about this limiter? Or something with the carb?

Was thinking about screwing the H all the way out. But it's running so good now, I hate to mess with it anymore.

This is a Walbro WTEA-1 carburetor which is an air head (stratified) version. Tuning is different than non air heads so yes they tune richer on the H side. This particular uses spring loaded limiters which has to be fully depress to release the mixture screws normally. It sound like busted the limiter. They are replaceable but are expensive. Also note if you attempt to rebuild this carburetor you will the new W tool as the old W tool will set the metering lever wrong. PN 500-528-1

The basic H setting is 2-1/2 turns from seated and L is 1-1/2 turns.

As far getting the carburetor off it isn't that hard but you get a copy of the Husqvarna 455 Rancher 460 Parts and Service Manual. It will instruct you on how the remove and install the carburetor.

I don't work on many Hoosky saw but most strato saws i work on don't like having the throttle opened real qiuck or they bog. Especially if not completely warmed up. Like star said they tune a bit rich on the top end. Pulling the trigger fast opens both butterflies at a low rpm and the vacum through the carb drops too low and the saw bogs. Tuning slightly rich and pulling the trigger a little slower helps. Stihls are not so bad but the poulans are bad for bogging. Strato saws kinda suck in general.

Hammer I agree with you about the Poulan bog. Always bothered me that I couldn't get that tuned out. That mid throttle lag I just hate.

I reckon I just lucky with Poulans as most tune just fine for me; although, I did have 4218 that had to be tuned in the cut.

Most bogging is from tuning the idle mixture too lean.

Hammermechanicman said:

I don't work on many Hoosky saw but most strato saws i work on don't like having the throttle opened real qiuck or they bog. Especially if not completely warmed up. Like star said they tune a bit rich on the top end. Pulling the trigger fast opens both butterflies at a low rpm and the vacum through the carb drops too low and the saw bogs. Tuning slightly rich and pulling the trigger a little slower helps. Stihls are not so bad but the poulans are bad for bogging. Strato saws kinda suck in general.

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I was a little distressed this morning when I fired it up. Bogged right off the bat. Squeezing the trigger slowly through the bog was successful. It slowly throttled up to WOT. Afterwards, I could pull the trigger fast, without the bogging. Could've all just been the warm up period.
But no matter, It goes to WOT, and stays there. So I'm not going to touch it.

This is a new commercial customer, just checking me out. He bringing me a scag today to fix his leaking hydro lines. He seems nice. Didn't say a word about leaving the diagnostic money up front. Wish they were all that way.

StarTech said:

This is a Walbro WTEA-1 carburetor which is an air head (stratified) version. Tuning is different than non air heads so yes they tune richer on the H side. This particular uses spring loaded limiters which has to be fully depress to release the mixture screws normally. It sound like busted the limiter. They are replaceable but are expensive. Also note if you attempt to rebuild this carburetor you will the new W tool as the old W tool will set the metering lever wrong. PN 500-528-1

The basic H setting is 2-1/2 turns from seated and L is 1-1/2 turns.

As far getting the carburetor off it isn't that hard but you get a copy of the Husqvarna 455 Rancher 460 Parts and Service Manual. It will instruct you on how the remove and install the carburetor.

Click to expand...

Getting it off, requires getting those two carb bolts out. Not a straight shot with the impact. The rebuild vid I watched last night, showed the handles being removed to get to those easily. Maybe a 1/4 ratchet will do in the future.
Thanks for the heads up on the new W tool. Would've been a head scratcher later on without it.

Strange I never had to remove the handle to get the carburetor out on the 455 and it is the same setup. And why in heaven are you using an impact? I only long hex L keys and a flat blade screw driver.

Yes if you use the old w tool you will set the metering lever too low. There is a trick that can be use with the old tool but with all the newer carburetors now needing repairs there is more reasons to get the new tool.

StarTech said:

Strange I never had to remove the handle to get the carburetor out on the 455 and it is the same setup. And why in heaven are you using an impact? I only long hex L keys and a flat blade screw driver.

Yes if you use the old w tool you will set the metering lever too low. There is a trick that can be use with the old tool but with all the newer carburetors now needing repairs there is more reasons to get the new tool.

Click to expand...

Impacts are faster. I don't keep on impacting the nuts. Just stug'm slowly. The variable speed trigger makes it quick & easy. You just can't go overboard with it.

BTW, the guy was doing a complete rebuild, so I assume he just removed everything necessary for that. But it did make it a lot easier to get the carb off and back on.