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Bought a used 455 and the mower has not worked for a few years. I went right to the solenoid 12 volt plug to eliminate all the safety features other electrical connections and applied 12 volts direct to solenoid from a battery. Nothing happens, No click or sound implying the solenoid is firing. Assume it is shorted as it has a high ohm reading. Is there a special tool to get the armature out and can it be bench tested? How can I determine if the failure is internal to the hydraulic clutch or simply the solenoid without taking off the rear plate to expose the guts of the trans/PTO.

Krupczak1 said:

Bought a used 455 and the mower has not worked for a few years. I went right to the solenoid 12 volt plug to eliminate all the safety features other electrical connections and applied 12 volts direct to solenoid from a battery. Nothing happens, No click or sound implying the solenoid is firing. Assume it is shorted as it has a high ohm reading. Is there a special tool to get the armature out and can it be bench tested? How can I determine if the failure is internal to the hydraulic clutch or simply the solenoid without taking off the rear plate to expose the guts of the trans/PTO.

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The only way to check it is with hydraulic gauges. The simplest thing you can do is go to your dealer and order the solenoid valve. Part number AM878297. It just winds out of the rear of the transmission. I am including the removal/installation instructions from the tech manual. Hope this helps and good luck!

Will1988 said:

The only way to check it is with hydraulic gauges. The simplest thing you can do is go to your dealer and order the solenoid valve. Part number AM878297. It just winds out of the rear of the transmission. I am including the removal/installation instructions from the tech manual. Hope this helps and good luck!

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Thanks for the immediate reply. This is helpful, it looks like I need a solenoid socket to get it out unless there is some other way. I did hot want to risk using an open end wrench on it. Am I correct to assume that 12 volts connected directly to the solenoid should activate it if it is working. It doesn't do anything.I am trying to bypass all the other electrical diagnostics.

Krupczak1 said:

Thanks for the immediate reply. This is helpful, it looks like I need a solenoid socket to get it out unless there is some other way. I did hot want to risk using an open end wrench on it. Am I correct to assume that 12 volts connected directly to the solenoid should activate it if it is working. It doesn't do anything.I am trying to bypass all the other electrical diagnostics.

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You're welcome! Yes, it should activate with power directly applied to it. Honestly, only the solenoid usually goes bad. I have already in the past, just swapped the coils and got them to work. It might be worth a try before you go and buy a special socket just for that. Just a thought.

Will1988 said:

You're welcome! Yes, it should activate with power directly applied to it. Honestly, only the solenoid usually goes bad. I have already in the past, just swapped the coils and got them to work. It might be worth a try before you go and buy a special socket just for that. Just a thought.

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Good suggestion. The armature bones not move it is stuck and I’m told the shaft should move in and or out. Make sense. I’m going to try filing a 15/16 open end. I think one millimeter will make a snug fit. If I can remove it I can see what’s going on. Will let you know my progress

Will1988 said:

You're welcome! Yes, it should activate with power directly applied to it. Honestly, only the solenoid usually goes bad. I have already in the past, just swapped the coils and got them to work. It might be worth a try before you go and buy a special socket just for that. Just a thought.

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Good suggestion. The armature does not move it is stuck and I’m told the shaft should move in and or out. Makes sense. I’m going to try filing a 15/16 open end. I think one millimeter will make a snug fit. If I can remove it I can see what’s going on. Will let you know my progress

Whoever informed you the shaft should move may have misguided you. The part that moves is internal. I am including a pic of the layout. Part #6 is the pin that moves. You wont be able to see that unless you unscrew the shaft. I would try and put the new coil on the old shaft and see if you hear the pin inside 'click'.

(P.S., I have worked at a John Deere dealership since 1998 as a lawn and garden tech/shop manager. Just to give you a bit of background on my experience level.)
Good luck and let me know how you make out!

Will1988 said:

Whoever informed you the shaft should move may have misguided you. The part that moves is internal. I am including a pic of the layout. Part #6 is the pin that moves. You wont be able to see that unless you unscrew the shaft. I would try and put the new coil on the old shaft and see if you hear the pin inside 'click'.

(P.S., I have worked at a John Deere dealership since 1998 as a lawn and garden tech/shop manager. Just to give you a bit of background on my experience level.)
Good luck and let me know how you make out!

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That is the best advice. Even our dealer said the shaft should move that's why I thought it was stuck inside. I will buy the coil. I hesitate taking the armature out without the special socket.Perhaps I can save a lot of effort thanks to you.

another subject.
Do you have any opinion on a three point hitch after market brand?

Krupczak1 said:

That is the best advice. Even our dealer said the shaft should move that's why I thought it was stuck inside. I will buy the coil. I hesitate taking the armature out without the special socket.Perhaps I can save a lot of effort thanks to you.

another subject.
Do you have any opinion on a three point hitch after market brand?

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Unfortunately, I dont have much experience on the three point hitch for this tractor. We didnt sell many of that option as most people would just buy a compact tractor with a loader. I would suggest starting a new thread for that and see what kind of answers you get.

Will1988 said:

Unfortunately, I dont have much experience on the three point hitch for this tractor. We didnt sell many of that option as most people would just buy a compact tractor with a loader. I would suggest starting a new thread for that and see what kind of answers you get.

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I ordered the solenoid and hope to be" in business" next week. It seems to be the likely problem. TPH will be for a box grader, thanks for the tips

Krupczak1 said:

I ordered the solenoid and hope to be" in business" next week. It seems to be the likely problem. TPH will be for a box grader, thanks for the tips

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Status update: new solenoid installed and I changed the fluid and filter. Tested the old and new with current direct from the battery 12.4 tested. Neither one fired,clicked or anything. There was a spark as I touched the contacts. Black to ground and the other wire positive. Nothing. The unlined runs fine and the safety switches for seat and reverse interrupt jumpered. Both LED lights on. Test procedure #6 has no voltage. It is on per the schematic on the control module board and no voltage it’s a black wire and has tested continuity to ground. What is the page reference for the power circuit or where should I rest next? The procedure is confusing using the pdf manual thanks in advance

I stripped the plastic nut reinstalling it for a retest as I didn’t have it at the 45 degree angle. Could that have affected it firing? Hope I can but a new nut

The unit should click when wired direct. Since it doesn't, I would suspect maybe the plunger inside is seized. Using a 1" crowfoot wrench, remove the shaft. Install the new one that came with the solenoid kit. Make sure the little metal plunger rod is installed in the shaft piece. The large copper washer goes in the groove around the base of the shaft and seals against the trans case. You may have to use a scraper to remove the old washer if it is stuck to the trans case. Just tighten the shaft until it is snug. Slide your solenoid onto the shaft, then slide on the small o-ring. You can reuse your old plastic nut. Just hand tighten the plastic nut, then take a wrench and only turn it until you feel the nut bottom out against the solenoid. Wire it direct, and see what happens.

Krupczak1 said:

I ordered the solenoid and hope to be" in business" next week. It seems to be the likely problem. TPH will be for a box grader, thanks for the tips

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I installed the replacement as you described and tested It must be defective too. Will return and order a another.
Still need to resolve no voltage at the connector plug. Point #6 is a black ground tests no voltage. Manual says go to power circuit test points And i can’t find it. Note

The engine runs.The pto light led is on. The pto switch tests ok. I did not inspect the back of the control module. Any thoughts

I'm assuming your serial number is below 70,000 as that seems to be the test point page you are using. The black wire you are referencing is just a ground wire. You shouldn't be reading any voltage there. The manual simply wants you to verify that it has a good ground connection. There is a section labeled Power Circuit Test Points. Assuming your manual is the same as mine, it looks like you are looking for page 5-147 for serial number range below 70,000. If you follow that test procedure and still can't find it, it may be time to take it to the shop. We had one last week that was firing the solenoid just fine, but had no PTO. Ended up being the clutches inside were all worn out. Good luck!

Krupczak1 said:

I ordered the solenoid and hope to be" in business" next week. It seems to be the likely problem. TPH will be for a box grader, thanks for the tips

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You have been quite expert, helpful and patient. Think I can take it from here. Order another replacement solenoid. You led me to realize my serial is newer than 70001. Only part of the serial was visible on the machine. Procedures make more sense now.

I know this is an old thread but for the solenoid wrench, you can grind flat a 25mm 6-point deep socket then grind down the two flats on each side you don't need an 1/8". A socket and a grinder are cheaper then the actual solenoid tool.