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DeepDave said:

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Trying to clean the carburetor. After removing the hinge pin, I can't get the float ring off because it has a slot on the bottom with a pin. Do I need to get a special 90° screwdriver to take off the jets which will then give me the slack to take off the float? Thanks

Looks like the float pin is still in place at the bottom of your picture. That has to come out to remove the float. If the float doesn't come out then the float valve is stuck and will need to be pried out. then you can get to the emulsion tube screws after that.

Here is a link that has instructions for your Briggs/Nikki carb

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

Thanks

ILENGINE said:

Looks like the float pin is still in place at the bottom of your picture. That has to come out to remove the float. If the float doesn't come out then the float valve is stuck and will need to be pried out. then you can get to the emulsion tube screws after that.

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Thanks. The pin was out. Just a poor quality picture. This is my first time taking apart a carburetor. I finally did manage to lift off the float. And discovered that the thing in the slot on the float body was actually a fuel cut off. It was stuck because there was a lot of crap on it and in the channel it drops into. Makes me wonder how the engine ever ran. I already replaced the fuel line/filter/fuel pump/plugs. The engine turns over but does not start. But does fire up with starter fluid. So my last suspect is the 798779 fuel shut off solenoid. I tested it with a 9-volt battery which I had read you can do. And it didn't retract. I'll try it with a 12 volt battery. Are the $10 fuel shut off solenoids on eBay worth buying? If not is there a place you would suggest? My lawn mower place wants $125 for the B&S one. Thanks again

Forest#2 said:

Here is a link that has instructions for your Briggs carb

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

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Thanks. I finally figured it out. This is the first time I've had a carburetor apart. See my reply to the other gentleman.

Just some general info about the Anti backfire solenoid (ABS) you mention.

Sometimes the solenoid pintle can be free'ed up by using a penetrating oil and gently pushing and slightly twisting the pintle valve stem. It is slightly spring loaded outwards and uses voltage to retract.
You also have the option of cutting/snipping off the end of the pintle. This will allow you you place the Nikki carb back on the engine for a test run to see if you have any other issues. You can find videos on-line about cutting the end of the pintle.
The main purpose of the solenoid to to reduce change of backfire when the key is turned off on a running engine. If a warm/hot engine is allowed to idle for awhile before turning the key off also reduces chance of backfire.
You can find china clone replacements that are about 50/50 of not running right.
Always hang onto your OEM Nikki carb for a possible rebuild.

Forest#2 said:

Just some general info about the Anti backfire solenoid (ABS) you mention.

Sometimes the solenoid pintle can be free'ed up by using a penetrating oil and gently pushing and slightly twisting the pintle valve. It is slightly spring loaded outwards and uses voltage to retract.
You also have the option of cutting/snipping off the end of the pintle. This will allow you you place the carb back on the engine for a test run to see if you have any other issues. The older carbs did not use the solenoid but used a 5/16 x 24 TPI SAE bolt and flat washer instead. You can find videos on-line about cutting the end of the pintle.
The main purpose of the solenoid to to reduce change of backfire when the key is turned off on a running engine. If a warm/hot engine is allowed to idle for awhile before turning the key off also reduces chance of backfire.

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Some of my customers and neighbors shut their engines off on wide open throttle, so they are not doing this correctly. They also drive the riding mowers and zero turns around when not mowing at idle or mid throttle so they are not doing this correctly. It is frustrating to watch. Sometimes I try to explain how to do these two things correctly, but it seems like a lost cause.

Forest#2 said:

Just some general info about the Anti backfire solenoid (ABS) you mention.

Sometimes the solenoid pintle can be free'ed up by using a penetrating oil and gently pushing and slightly twisting the pintle valve. It is slightly spring loaded outwards and uses voltage to retract.
You also have the option of cutting/snipping off the end of the pintle. This will allow you you place the carb back on the engine for a test run to see if you have any other issues. The older carbs did not use the solenoid but used a 5/16 x 24 TPI SAE bolt and flat washer instead. You can find videos on-line about cutting the end of the pintle.
The main purpose of the solenoid to to reduce change of backfire when the key is turned off on a running engine. If a warm/hot engine is allowed to idle for awhile before turning the key off also reduces chance of backfire.

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Kohler recommends full throttle shutdown due to how their carbs are plumbed. Kohler setup doesn't shutoff the idle circuit of the carb with the fuel solenoid. So idle shutdown allows fuel to be drawn into the engine and unburnt into the muffler increasing the case of afterfire.

ILENGINE said:

Looks like the float pin is still in place at the bottom of your picture. That has to come out to remove the float. If the float doesn't come out then the float valve is stuck and will need to be pried out. then you can get to the emulsion tube screws after that.

Click to expand...

Thank you and all the people who have responded. Once I got the float pin out and cleaned up the channel it was in the engine started like a top. At least after I pulled the carburetor three more times. Twice to get the fuel solenoid leads in the right alignment and once to figure out that the carburetor gasket/o-ring was tiny and worthless. I ended up buying a huge fat o-ring that was the same size and just torqueing it together.