Export thread

I just purchased a used 33" troy-bilt walk behind lawn mower model number 34342. When I put it in any of the gears it creeps forward and also creeps back in reverse. It does this when I'm not pulling on the bottom handle. I took off the wheel drive control rod and spun that to see if that would would and nothing changed.
Is there another adjustment somewhere or could the belt just be to tight? Any help would be appreciated.

zawisza75 said:

I just purchased a used 33" troy-bilt walk behind lawn mower model number 34342. When I put it in any of the gears it creeps forward and also creeps back in reverse. It does this when I'm not pulling on the bottom handle. I took off the wheel drive control rod and spun that to see if that would would and nothing changed.
Is there another adjustment somewhere or could the belt just be to tight? Any help would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

Seems like it would have to be the belt or the cable. Most likely the cable.

Probably a loose belt. Or a bad one.

troybilt

I got a new belt and put it on. But it still creeps, it actually creeps a little more. Im guessing that its the new belt and its not stretch out like the older one. Is there any other adjustments I could do other than the drive rod shaft on the left?

Did you ever fix this issue? I have a 33in troy-bilt model 34071 and it does the same thing. it is very hard to shift into gear. once its in gear i can use the trottle like its suppose to, but if i engage the blades the trottle doesnt do anything. the mower instantly moves and doesnt stop untill you release the lever for the blades.

Swerv said:

Did you ever fix this issue? I have a 33in troy-bilt model 34071 and it does the same thing. it is very hard to shift into gear. once its in gear i can use the trottle like its suppose to, but if i engage the blades the trottle doesnt do anything. the mower instantly moves and doesnt stop untill you release the lever for the blades.

Click to expand...

Swerv,
Did you ever find an answer for the hard to shift/will not shift out of gear once it is in gear and running... I have the a 34342 that is having this problem. Please let me know if you found a fix. On the creeping the there is a nut on brake lever that needs to be tightened...a quarter turn or so a a time. it will fix the creep.

Cfs

at the end of the clutch rod there is a small linkage rod, the pivot for the rod under the motor portion of the deck get seized over time causing it to drag/stick....the release spring does not have the strength to overcome this issue on its own....sometimes an adjustment will fix it, but most times you need to replace the link rod

willys55 said:

at the end of the clutch rod there is a small linkage rod, the pivot for the rod under the motor portion of the deck get seized over time causing it to drag/stick....the release spring does not have the strength to overcome this issue on its own....sometimes an adjustment will fix it, but most times you need to replace the link rod

Click to expand...

Russ, thanks for the quick reply.. So I am clear which linkage is causing the hard to shift when running situation that I am having. You are referring to. What is called the lower transmission rod it passes through an eyebolt and has a light gauge compression spring between 2 washers at the end of it?

Cfs said:

Swerv,
Did you ever find an answer for the hard to shift/will not shift out of gear once it is in gear and running... I have the a 34342 that is having this problem. Please let me know if you found a fix. On the creeping the there is a nut on brake lever that needs to be tightened...a quarter turn or so a a time. it will fix the creep.

Cfs

Click to expand...

Yea I did fix the issue. I no longer have the mower, but I had it running like new before I sold it. All my issues came down to bad/ worn belts. So when you released the throttle the worn belt was sticky, not allowing the belt to slip past the pulley completely so the mower would creap forward. Then once you released the top “blade engagement” lever, a brake would apply which would then over come the belt slowly creeping the mower forwar and it would come to a stop. So because the worn belt would always cause the mower to move, that then made it hard to shift gears because the transmission was on the move. It was all related in one way or another.

Another reason for the shifting was my shift rod wasn’t sitting correctly. Trying to remember exactly how it goes because I’ve sold it and can’t 100% remember, but there is a cottar pin of some sort that goes into the shift rod and holds it at a certain height. Also only alouds you to go into reverse if you raise the rod and twist. That pin was missing on mine, causing the linkage to “sag”. That cause it to be harder to get into forward or reverse gears.

Careful with adjusting the nut for the brake like you said. I tried this and it did stop the creeping, but all it was doing was applying the brake more. Adjust it to much and your brake will drag the whole time and you will smoke it. Check your belts before adjusting the brake. You should have to touch the brake in my opinion.

Hope his helps, let me know if I can help you more.

Evan

Cfs said:

Russ, thanks for the quick reply.. So I am clear which linkage is causing the hard to shift when running situation that I am having. You are referring to. What is called the lower transmission rod it passes through an eyebolt and has a light gauge compression spring between 2 washers at the end of it?

Click to expand...

yes, that's the one

I just fixed this issue on my Troybilt 33. It was the belt. Most 1770334 belts out there are soft rubber outer shells. If the belt is soft rubber it adheres to the motor pulley when not engaged. That causes the mower to creep. It also makes it difficult to shift gears because the transmission pulley is always being driven. The belt needs to have a fabric wrap on the outside. The following belt will fix this issue. I can't post links as I'm new to this forum.



www vbeltguys com 1770334-troy-bilt-oem-equivalent-dry-kevlar-v-belt