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I have a Poulan Pro 22 horse, PP 22 VA 48 aprox 450 hours
It works very good but now I have a problem and will only start with help of a Starter Fluid Aerosol.
What should I check?

In addition to that when has started the first minutes it does not run constant but the rpm are oscillating, goes up and down.

Any tips?
Thanks!
Freedom

Hello F.,

The first thing that comes to mind is the fuel shutoff solenoid is not working or has a bad connection. It is located on the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl.

What engine does this have? If it is a Briggs and Stratton, we need the numbers that are stamped into the top of the valve rocker cover.

Also, it helps us to know the product label information on the label under the seat.

Have you made sure that the choke is closing all the way on start up? Cables will move after time not allowing the choke to fully close. Simple adjustment.

Rivets said:

Have you made sure that the choke is closing all the way on start up? Cables will move after time not allowing the choke to fully close. Simple adjustment.

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And very common with the Poulan/Husqvarna/917.xxxxxx Craftsman mowers.

An engine that must be started with " Starter Fluid Aerosol" has a problem that needs to be sorted out.

You risk further damage with the habitual use of a starter aerosol (mostly ether).

I do not like starter fluid. If you have to use something to start it with I use Gum Out carb cleaner it will not blow the engine up. I will tell you why. I had a customer that wanted to sell me a mower. Told me over the winter it got water in the engine and busted a one of the heads. Thought got water in it and busted a head. I think no way for that to happen unless the piston is on top dead center where the piston cannot move up and down. Well I bought it. Pulled the head and it was clean as it could be no sign of water or rust. It was a Generac 33 hp. We had several junks sitting around, so I took a good head off one of them and fixed it. Still running today. Next time I saw him I ask him how much starting fluid he sprayed in it and he said not much. But enough to bust the head.

It may be time to remove/dismantle the carburettor. Clean with carburettor cleaner & compressed air. Make sure all jets/aperture's are open/free from gum. Reassemble/fit and try again.

Put you hand over the air intake horn and try to crank it. If it fires up, the choke is the problem.

MParr said:

Put you hand over the air intake horn and try to crank it. If it fires up, the choke is the problem.

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I guess you mean the lack of adequate choke.

Note: I have had an engine repair, where it would only run with the choke on - this is a classic carburettor blockage symptome.

Skippydiesel said:

I guess you mean the lack of adequate choke.

Note: I have had an engine repair, where it would only run with the choke on - this is a classic carburettor blockage symptome.

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I had a Gravely with the Kohler ZT740. It would crank and crank but never fire. I checked everything over except the the actual butterfly. Everything checked out. I put my hand over the intake horn and it fired right off. The choke linkage on the carburetor butterfly was broken.

Thank you all very much for the answers. I learn a lot here. as someone said the problem is in the choke. I wanted to attacha video but i can't, is possible to send a video?

Freedom said:

Thank you all very much for the answers. I learn a lot here. as someone said the problem is in the choke. I wanted to attacha video but i can't, is possible to send a video?

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You need to provide us with the engine model and type number information that is stamped into the rocker cover on the engine.

Techs don't like to play guesses off of minimal information.

Should be either a 40N877-0015-G1, 44N677-0015-G1 or 44R677-0024-G1. IPLs 2008-2016 claiming it has 40N677-0015-G1 but Briggs Power Portal says no such animal. And IPL for the 2012-2013 has the 44R677-0024-G1. I leaning toward the 44N677-0015-G1.

But as said we the info off the rocker cover.

Thanks The choke doesn't move at all when I move the lever up. The cable does move, and also the wheel at the right but the choke does not move up and down
my motor is:

Any suggestions?
Thanks!
F

Was the throttle cable takes off of this at some point?

IF this don't move [rotate].

But the inner extends and retracts then the cable clamp is probably missing or loose.

Auto Doc's said:

Was the throttle cable takes off of this at some point?

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no, the throttle cable is working ok

StarTech said:

IF this don't move [rotate].
View attachment 72423
But the inner extends and retracts then the cable clamp is probably missing or loose.
View attachment 72425

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The engine part of the photo rotates.

Removed the air cleaner and backing to see the actual choke plate. You may have to pull the entire upper fan shroud off. The linkage rod that operated the choke may have popped out of the clip at the bottom or top.

Take a couple of pictures from about a foot away when you get it apart.

Auto Doc's said:

Removed the air cleaner and backing to see the actual choke plate. You may have to pull the entire upper fan shroud off. The linkage rod that operated the choke may have popped out of the clip at the bottom or top.

Take a couple of pictures from about a foot away when you get it apart.

Click to expand...

thanks!

Lower end is in place and the upper end is nearly impossible to become dislodge due to the Z end. Normally it would require removing the intake manifold.

Have you adjusted the cable per the instructions given making sure the choke closes? Loosen the cable housing clamp. The D wheel [swivel] must all the way CCW with throttle lever at Full before tighten the clamp on the cable housing. Some resistance will felt as the choke lever moves choke vane to fully closed.

Hi StarTech,

I currently have a Kohler CV-22 here doing similar things. Even though the cable is adjusted correctly, the choke blade linkage has just enough slack that the engine will not start unless I touch the choke blade to ensure it is fully closed.

It baffles the mind how just a little linkage slack can create such an issue. The choke appears closed until I touch it to seal it in the housing opening. Otherwise, I have to crank the heck out of it when cold. One touch on the choke blade and the engine fire right up.

It got too late in the day for me to tweak the linkage today, but that is my next step.

There you go Auto, you got yours pinpointed. Note Kohler does tends to plastic snap link terminals and they do wear.

this part should be always up, (i think) it has a string to that purpose. and one side of that string was loose.
I put again the string and works ok
Sounds logic?
Thanks!