Yes you have a valve problem 9 thou is too much adjust them at 4 thou and you will be good yo go......
Do you know how to adjust those valves on that small engine ??
9 thousands sounds like way too much valve clearance. Look up the correct spec and reset. Also give us some more info on the engine. Make and model number from valve cover is best.
Yes you have a valve problem 9 thou is too much adjust them at 4 thou and you will be good yo go......
Do you know how to adjust those valves on that small engine ??
Thank you so use the 1/4" below TDC to adjust both at 4 thou?
NO, NO, NO, Go back & watch the 2nd link, (video) in post # 3, watch & listen several times if necessary !!
The tractor hood ??? Thats easy just lift and then there 2 slots.... One on each side..... Slide the hood towards the seat and then lift up on the hood........
Great now let us know what you find out with main issue...... Seems like you are working on it right now ~!~!
Hi Guys,
I bought my Ariens A19A42 lawn tractor from a guy that just bought it 6 months earlier at Home Depot. He had only used it a couple times and ended up moving to an apartment so he sold me the mower.
I ran it a few times which it ran beautifully but it would backfire once in awhile and stop. Then I'd fire it up again. So that time of year I put it in the garage a few months. I put Sta-bil in the gas before every time I used it and stored it so the gas wouldn't go bad. So went to start it few months later and it wouldn't turn over but about 3/4 a turn so I bought new battery and charged it to 100% before I installed it and same thing , it wouldn't turn over.
So pulled the spark plug and it turns over super fast and I can here it go through its strokes.
So pulled valve cover and valve clearances are at 9 thousands and thinking one wasn't maybe opening but they both are. So couldn't figure it out and had no way to haul it into the dealer so let it sit for a couple years and just used my old JD mower. So wanting to figure it out so I can use it I just tried again here April 2018 of course again and the same problem. I've always done my own automobile repairs so am up to repairing it but don't know what to try next.
So please give me some help. Brand new beautiful mower I haven't been able to use is very frustrating. Never called a service center or Briggs figuring they'd not give me any help over the phone.
With thanks,
Ron
Ok great job ..... What Plastic covers are you speaking of ??? The air shroud that covers the whole engine ???
If that's the cover you are talking about can you turn the flywheel all the way around with your hands ???
MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE OFF AND put it WELL AWAY form the plug before you turn it by hand OK.....
Wow, that IS STRANGE that you can't turn the flywheel by hand with the plug in by hand...... Like you said already you took the plug out and it spins free.......
So that eliminates HYDRO lock........ WHAT SPARK PLUG are you using ??? You have to excuse my CAPS in here because I have been posting on a few 19 HP engines on a few threads today and yesterday on here and another forum...
Ariens, THIS is bewildering us also, this is a head scratcher, IF you have fuel reaching the cylinder, and you have good spark, along with correct timing, by all accounts it SHOULD run, you say you can't turn it with the plug in ?? THAT sounds like something is stopping rotation, even with the plug in, it may be HARD to turn, BUT you should still be able to turn it by hand, something is blocking something, ..... check the spark-plug to see if the gap is closed ( piston hitting the plug) it sounds as if the air in the cylinder cant escape, that would make me think, (SORRY) incorrect valve adjustment, plugged exhaust port, and or breather, .... trying to avoid going into the engine, as a last resort, let us know about the plug as we ponder over this.
Quick question. Did you set the valves at 1/4 turn past TDC on the compression stroke? It does matter.
Ariens, THIS is bewildering us also, this is a head scratcher, IF you have fuel reaching the cylinder, and you have good spark, along with correct timing, by all accounts it SHOULD run, you say you can't turn it with the plug in ?? THAT sounds like something is stopping rotation, even with the plug in, it may be HARD to turn, BUT you should still be able to turn it by hand, something is blocking something, ..... check the spark-plug to see if the gap is closed ( piston hitting the plug) it sounds as if the air in the cylinder cant escape, that would make me think, (SORRY) incorrect valve adjustment, plugged exhaust port, and or breather, .... trying to avoid going into the engine, as a last resort, let us know about the plug as we ponder over this.
Thank you for your help. The plug is fine and with the plug out I can easily turn the motor over by hand. I adjusted the valves at TDC per suggested but have been told it should be done with piston at 1/4" below TDC, which I will do today. The plug gets some fuel on it so its getting fuel I guess.
I can't figure out how to check the timing but will have to look it up. The flywheel has some surface rust I assume from me washing it when it was running and must have gotten it wet when I would wash it after use. Could water have caused this? I hate to spend money on a new starter since it spins very strong when the plugs out.
I'm going to jump it with a good car battery today and put positive directly to the starter.
Thank you for your help.
Ron
Ron a rusty flywheel won't stop it from starting, but you could look at the flywheel keyway while you have the shroud off (as stated by another member) and also check the gap between the coil and flywheel at the same time, to help clear-up this valve adjustment procedure see the video in the link....... Taryl explains WHY we set the valves this way without using the "book-procedure", EXPLANATION begins at approx 19:10 min of the video, Hang in there Ron, we'll get it !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4
MESSAGE to Ron ...!! Pay ATTENTION !!!!
RON, DID YOU NOT watch the video I sent in POST # 26 ....???????????? THE LINK !!! CLICK ON THE LINK
IT EXPLAINS WHY we do NOT use the 1/4 inch after TDC method !!
HERE IS THE VIDEO >>>> AGAIN !!! .. ... ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWHPHGZAvj4
IT STARTS at about 19 minutes & 06 seconds into the video !!! ( it MIGHT start at that point .. I reset it to that point )
AND HERE IS ANOTHER VIDEO of how to ADJUST THEM........ WATCH THESE VIDEO'S
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PEUt_KAcYk&t=21s .. ( watch THIS ENTIRE VIDEO )
GET THIS 1/4 TDC idea OUT OF YOUR HEAD !!......... YES the valves are adjusted separately as shown in the video !!!!!!
IF you don't understand any of this .... post it.... and I will send you my phone # in a PM, .. and try to talk you through this !
I did adjust them that way but only had gauge with the thinnest of 8 thou so used a piece of printing paper hoping it was about 4 thou thick but it turned over one time good then won't turn over again like that. So another gentlemen sent me a private message and said its a must to use the 1/4" below TDC to adjust them. I just bought a new feeler gauge with 4 thou so will try it again.
So have to talk puppy for a walk then when I return I'll try it again plus take the hood off so I can do it easier.
Thanks for your help.
Ron
RON, .. DID YOU watch the video's .. ??
IF so... do you understand them .. ??
by all means leave the hood off until you get the engine running .
ALSO be sure battery is fully charged ... 12.3 volts or better........
Yes I watched them and absolutely will leave that hood off until it's good to go. Going out to work on it now and will let you know what happens.
Thank you,
Ron
Well I readjusted the valves at 4 thou which they were a bit loose. Plug was what factory sticker says on mower with no damage. Threw plug back in and went to turn it over and again it stopped at the compression stroke. I so I thought lets turn it by hand past the compression and then it turned correctly and fired right up and ran like a top. Let it heat up and then shut it off hoping it would turn over without putting it past the compression stroke myself but no dice , same thing.
When I help it and it turns over it spins really fast and fires right up then.
So maybe starter is weak? I cut some grass after it started and ran great.
Well glad to see you were able to use it, BUT,....... if you're 100% sure you have the valves adjusted right, and the battery is at full charge, yes it MIGHT be a weak starter, BUT doubtful, BEFORE you go spending money on parts, try removing the battery cables BOTH ends !! at the battery, the solenoid and at the ground cable to the frame, Clean with a wire brush, /sandpaper etc. THOROUGHLY clean and then very SNUG ! then check the starter solenoid wires ( on all the terminals, and if the solenoid is bolted to the body/frame remove it, and clean the metal on the solenoid base and frame/body where it mounts, ( dirty corroded connections are a MAJOR factor of starting issues) IF this does ..NOT.. help, there are other things that may be the problem, but lets try the CHEAPEST, EASIEST "fixes" first, keep us posted Ron !! We want your machine at 100% ..:thumbsup:
ALSO: ALWAYS take pictures or make a diagram of the wires and or any springs BEFORE removal, so there's NO-DOUBT as to where they go during re-installation !!! ... I take many , many pictures to cover my arse, and save them for use on the forum and my own failing memory !! You can always DELETE the UN-wanted !!
OK I'll do that after I get this lawn fully mowed. I'm surprise at how small gauge the battery cables are. Think I should do an upgrade on them asap.
Thank you so much for everyone's help and time spent with my this, I greatly appreciate it a lot.
Ron
I sure hope it's a bad connection issue, instead of a bad cam........... This will be a long 25 page thread LOL ~!~!
Ron, you can buy some #6 AWG copper wire at Home-Depot/Lowes or most hardware stores, they may also have the CORRECT size terminal ends or they can be purchased at an auto-parts place, also the wire from the battery to the solenoid, and solenoid to starter ( ground cables too) post back after your completed . .. :thumbsup:
OK I'll jump on that...I bet it only has 12 gauge if they have it. I have 2&4 gauge for my car stereo and its 3-4 times larger than what they put on this mower. Just fisnished the back yard and forgot how nice this mower rides ,runs and turn radius is excellent. Runs like a sewing machine.
Gonna wash it when done w/front and when I do cables I'll take photo's and post and write about the mod.
NO, NO, NO, ... with the hose !!! a damp rag ... water will get into places you've never heard of and water NEAR the engine is a no-no .. I have used a good cleaner in a spray bottle with a parts-cleaning brush, then a slight "trickling" hose but I had the top of the engine, starter, and carburetor covered with pieces from an old plastic shower curtain, then my air hose to "blow-dry" it right afterwards.. RUST NEVER SLEEPS & CORROSION CREEPS QUIETLY !! some WD-40 is a good thing afterwards..
Thank you for making sure I did it correct. I covered the motor with plastic and bungee cords holding it in place and washed the body parts and deck, tires wheels, ect then ran it for about an hour driving around on the road from the back of my house to the front several times with the trailers loaded with branches and stuff to throw on the burn pile. This way everything gets totally dry. I use a real low pressure on the hose. All went well and the mower never missed a beat nor even backfire . Battery is good and a couple times I din't have to spin it by hand past compression.
So nice to have it running and to pull the yard trailer while pruning.
Thank you so much for your help and making sure I'm on the correct path. Its fun whe things work correctly
Ron