My scag was used for the first time two weeks ago after the winter lay-off it was used in successive weeks and started and ran well both times..then , while mowing on a third occasion ,it ran out of gas.it was left , with ignition on, for two hours and then wouldn't start ..totally dead..the battery was replaced (it was "bad"),but still totally dead local mechanic suggested it might be the starter( although it started well before and suggested I "jump "and connect from battery to starter directly ..I am not sure I did it right ?slight effort to turn over first time , but then totally dead ( and I am not sure of that first effort, any how...it seems to me to be electrical rather than the starter , but don't know how to test the varios safeties ( I remember a similar event which related to the seat safety , but don't remember what I did....HELP PLEASE...P.S.the scag has a replacement new Kohler engine 20horsepowerdone two years ago
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
2000scag SSZwon't start
- Thread starter Scag
- Start date
More options
Export threadMad Mackie
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Threads
- 50
- Messages
- 1,851
It is not a good thing to leave the key switch in the on position with the engine not running particularly if the clutch switch is still in the on position.
What kills the battery is the draw of the clutch and the draw from the engine charging system which is attempting to turn the engine over thru the stator. When the keyswitch is in the off position, these systems are then electrically isolated from the battery.
All this being said, you can get the model and serial numbers from you machine, go to the Scag website and download the manuals for your specific machine. You can trace thru the wiring diagrams and by the process of illumination check each component starting at the keyswitch.
I would start at the engine first and as you had mentioned, jumper across the start solenoid or direct from the battery positive to the starter to make sure that it will turn the engine over. Sometimes this takes a separate battery cable to do. Bear in mind that possibly 100 amps or more will be drawn from the battery and some sparking will happen. The starter solenoid may be engine or frame mounted and the operational side, the small wire, may be jumped and this will operate the engine cranking system more safely for testing purposes. If the solenoid is frame mounted and has two small wires connected to the terminals on the base, then one is a ground. Do not connect a positive jumper to this, the other terminal is the positive, jump the positive terminal.
The electrical system on Scag SSZs is fairly straightforward and troubleshooting should be easy provided that you are skilled enough and have a multimeter for electrical testing.
Initially, make sure that the travel levers are fully extended outward, the parking brake is on, the keyswitch is in the off position, the fuses are still good, the PTO/clutch switch is in the off position, the battery is fully charged, the battery cable connections are clean and tight. There is a seat switch that can be operated by hand with the seat in the up position. So check it out and let us know what you find. If you do not feel qualified to do this type of troubleshooting, then find a quality servicing Scag dealer. And as always safety first!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
What kills the battery is the draw of the clutch and the draw from the engine charging system which is attempting to turn the engine over thru the stator. When the keyswitch is in the off position, these systems are then electrically isolated from the battery.
All this being said, you can get the model and serial numbers from you machine, go to the Scag website and download the manuals for your specific machine. You can trace thru the wiring diagrams and by the process of illumination check each component starting at the keyswitch.
I would start at the engine first and as you had mentioned, jumper across the start solenoid or direct from the battery positive to the starter to make sure that it will turn the engine over. Sometimes this takes a separate battery cable to do. Bear in mind that possibly 100 amps or more will be drawn from the battery and some sparking will happen. The starter solenoid may be engine or frame mounted and the operational side, the small wire, may be jumped and this will operate the engine cranking system more safely for testing purposes. If the solenoid is frame mounted and has two small wires connected to the terminals on the base, then one is a ground. Do not connect a positive jumper to this, the other terminal is the positive, jump the positive terminal.
The electrical system on Scag SSZs is fairly straightforward and troubleshooting should be easy provided that you are skilled enough and have a multimeter for electrical testing.
Initially, make sure that the travel levers are fully extended outward, the parking brake is on, the keyswitch is in the off position, the fuses are still good, the PTO/clutch switch is in the off position, the battery is fully charged, the battery cable connections are clean and tight. There is a seat switch that can be operated by hand with the seat in the up position. So check it out and let us know what you find. If you do not feel qualified to do this type of troubleshooting, then find a quality servicing Scag dealer. And as always safety first!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Thanks for the comprehensive answer.... I will update you ....where / how does one check the seat switch ? .... I had a problem with it , a long time ago , but can't remember what I did to sort it out ..I think it had Something to do with the bolt that runs from seat to frame
Mad Mackie
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Threads
- 50
- Messages
- 1,851
The seat switch is mounted into a small support bracket under the right hand side of the seat. I see from the parts manual that your machine may have an ammeter and if it is electrically open internally then it will act just like a blown fuse.
Another note, when attempting to start these machines, if it will not crank due to an intermittent seat switch, then the key must be turned back to the off position and then back to start while fiddling with the seat switch. I just put my machine back into my trailer and with an intermittent seat switch this happens. My seat switch is fairly new but dust gets into it and screws it up. I'm going to try to protect the seat switch somehow as this is getting to be a problem. I usually keep a new seat switch in my parts stash but it is in the machine. I have been dethatching lawns and the dust has become a problem from lack of rain, which at the moment it is raining here and much needed!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
Another note, when attempting to start these machines, if it will not crank due to an intermittent seat switch, then the key must be turned back to the off position and then back to start while fiddling with the seat switch. I just put my machine back into my trailer and with an intermittent seat switch this happens. My seat switch is fairly new but dust gets into it and screws it up. I'm going to try to protect the seat switch somehow as this is getting to be a problem. I usually keep a new seat switch in my parts stash but it is in the machine. I have been dethatching lawns and the dust has become a problem from lack of rain, which at the moment it is raining here and much needed!!
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing: