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Hello-

I'm looking for a paint source for my 1995 Lawn Boy Gold Series. The original paint is lifting from the casting in the area of the front Lawn Boy badge plate. I do not want to repaint the whole deck,

but touch up the bad area. I need a source for paint and primer. Apparently, Home Depot carries Model # 110-8800 Precision Color. What do I need for a primer and base coat?

Thanks in advance for any help and direction.

Regards-

tim

I just touched up a 2003 Lawn boy with rustoleum Grabber Green engine enamel , it was very close to the original color.

Napa should have Duplicolor grabber green engine enamel along with matching primer and clear coat if you want to clear coat.
Lee

Thanks for the input, guys... I was looking at the Rustoleum 248951 Grabber Green with, perhaps, the Rustoleum 249410 Engine primer, although the factory primer appears to be a

maroon color.

And, I was thinking about a total strip and powder coat, but may wait until the engine needs rebuilt and do a total restoration.

I have 4 Lawn Boy's that are going to need touch up- 1979, 90's Supreme, 93 Commercial, and the Gold Series already mentioned. All are 'F' series engines and I have all the parts to

rebuild them- including pistons & rings. However, they're not ready for that yet.

Also, I need a decal source that's quality and reliable.

Again, thanks.

tim

Hi Tim,

I've used Tamiya Color light green TS-22 for touch ups. It's available at hobby shops. The down side is its a very small can and a shade lighter than original LawnBoy green. The Grabber Green high temp engine enamel may be a closer match to original. If you're going to repaint the whole deck, I suggest using an automotive spray gun. Rattle cans do a decent job, but using a spray gun results in a more factory like finish. N.A.P.A. can mix you a quart of enamel with hardener, kinda pricey but you could paint several decks with the quart.

Jeff

jp1961 said:

...I've used Tamiya Color light green TS-22 for touch ups..... If you're going to repaint the whole deck, I suggest using an automotive spray gun.

Rattle cans do a decent job, but using a spray gun results in a more factory like finish. N.A.P.A. can mix you a quart of enamel with hardener...

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Thanks, Jeff... Yes, I have all kinds of spray equipment and have thought about that. For now, I'll just use the Rustoleum product, me thinks.

Imron would be another good choice for its durability. We have an automotive paint supply place here in Bay City that has a spectrum analyzer.

I have a decent size paint chip that bubbled off the deck

that I have saved and can get it analyzed for color match.

I think the pricing is a toss up between doing it in Imron vs. powder coating. Either way, I'll have to send the decks out for media blasting- or buy a blaster.

Again, thanks for your input.

tim

For decals I use rsmotorsports_racing_collectables on eBay. Sam is good to deal with and has good quality decals. If you don't see what you need just send him a message and ask if he has them.
He is also a good source for parts.
Lee

Rattle can Duplicolor grabber green

unclelee said:

For decals I use rsmotorsports_racing_collectables on eBay. Sam is good to deal with and has good quality decals. If you don't see what you need just send him a message and ask if he has them.
He is also a good source for parts.
Lee

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OK, thanks, Lee... I've seen a couple of guys on eBay with decals... I have to figure a way to save the sticker on the deck with the model and serial #'s.

If there's a way, I rather remove them for reuse rather than mask them off.

That Duplicolor rattler looks good... maybe some clear Imron for finish coat would give it the desired durability.

Wondering if the Rustoleum looks that good and has the desired durability.

My mowers, though in excellent condition, are work horses, not show pieces. Probably going to sell a couple of them, eventually.

On another note, my 1993 21" Commercial mower has a commercial deck with metal wheels and grease zerks. However, the decal on the recoil assy. states S19ZPM.

I purchased from the original owner and it came with a lot of new spare parts- 2 Walbro aluminum carburetors, 2 recoil assy's., a bunch of Lawn Boy oil, new coils,

and other service items. The prior owner assured me that it's the original engine. The model # on the recoil assy. and the 21" deck is what threw me.

Anyway, thanks for all the input.

tim

Lee, I was looking at this stuff online and they have it at the Advanced Auto up the street. It's Duplicolor Etching Primer and Ceramic Engine Paint. They also have a

Ceramic Engine Clear Coat. $6.99/12oz. rattler's not too bad!

timw128 said:

Lee, I was looking at this stuff online and they have it at the Advanced Auto up the street. It's Duplicolor Etching Primer and Ceramic Engine Paint. They also have a

Ceramic Engine Clear Coat. $6.99/12oz. rattler's not too bad!

View attachment 29461 View attachment 29462 View attachment 29463

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That's what I use....and many others have recommended it too. I give it about a week to cure good. Seems very durable.

unclelee said:

That's what I use....and many others have recommended it too. I give it about a week to cure good. Seems very durable.

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Yeah, we're pretty impressed with that color sample part you posted... looks really good. And the price is much better than the Rustoleum.

As far as rattle can paint, I have always thought Krylon's (Duplicolor) product was better than Rustoleum, all around.

Thanks for your input.

tim

Hi Tim,

Here is a pic of an old Toro I painted with my DeVilbiss spray gun and NAPA enamel

Jeff

Looks brand new!... I use mine too much to beauty shop them to that degree now. I just need to run them through the cosmetic

shop for a touch up.

When my mechanicals need a rebuild, I'll do the cosmetics to a tee, as well. At that point, I'll have the decks dipped and etched,

and then Alodine, prime, and powder coat. Cost is about $60/per and virtually bullet proof with reasonable care.

Thanks, Jeff! :smile:

Hi Tim,

Thanks. I kinda of messed up as I didn't use Zinc Chromate primer, something you should use for aluminum. I used standard high build automotive primer. I did paint an old 8255 with rattle cans (Plastic-Kote odds and ends parrot green, which isn't sold anymore) that came out pretty decent.

Jeff

Thanks, Jeff... Yes, zinc chromate is a must. If sourcing is available, Alodine or ELPO processing is the absolute best on a completely stripped and degreased aluminum deck.

Then, as an intermediate substrate, an etching zinc chromate primer. It all just depends on how 'anal' someone wants to get about it.

If the aluminum has been exposed and has started to corrode and pit, it should be stripped completely, washed correctly, and then Alodine plated or ELPO dipped, for

maximum durability. Then, to fill the pitting, West Systems marine epoxy squeegeed on and light sanding before zinc chromate primer application.

I'm very fortunate to live in a town (Bay City, MI) where there's a big marine industry and all of these sources are available.

Hope this helps.

tim

Hi Tim,

I know all about the West System epoxies. I've iceboated with the Gougeon brothers a long time ago, many times.

Jeff

jp1961 said:

Hi Tim,

I know all about the West System epoxies. I've iceboated with the Gougeon brothers a long time ago, many times.

Jeff

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Yes, I know Jan and Meade. Jan has since passed, but we used to hang out at the shop next to the bridge and talk materials. We were all into bicycles, too.

Dow Chemical were the ones who formulated West Systems adhesives and resins.

Personally, I work with a lot of carbon fiber and use West Systems products exclusively.

tim