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Hello Mower people.

I retired about 4 months ago and found I have lots of time on my hands to do just about anything that comes to mind. The reason I joined is due to a project I have decided to take on. I have a 1974 ss/16 with an Onan opposed twin in it that hasn't been cranked since 2000. I've owned it for a little more than 30 years and I am rather partial about it. We (My wife and I) are fixin to move to the country on a five acre lot were I can start another large garden. This is why I want to get my workhorse up and running again. I need a carburator and I am having a problem locating one. Does anyone know if the Onan will accept any other type of carburator other than the one that it has?

I am interested in meeting new people and discussing gardens and tractors so this is my introduction and plea for help.:smile:

I hope to hear from other members soon.

Brian.

Warhorse said:

Hello Mower people.

I retired about 4 months ago and found I have lots of time on my hands to do just about anything that comes to mind. The reason I joined is due to a project I have decided to take on. I have a 1974 ss/16 with an Onan opposed twin in it that hasn't been cranked since 2000. I've owned it for a little more than 30 years and I am rather partial about it. We (My wife and I) are fixin to move to the country on a five acre lot were I can start another large garden. This is why I want to get my workhorse up and running again. I need a carburator and I am having a problem locating one. Does anyone know if the Onan will accept any other type of carburator other than the one that it has?

I am interested in meeting new people and discussing gardens and tractors so this is my introduction and plea for help.:smile:

I hope to hear from other members soon.

Brian.

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Welcome. Maybe you could post the model# serial# of your Onan engine. Have you looked of ebay, sometimes there are Onan parts there for sale. I can't think of the place that I get my Onan parts from, I,ll have to think. Can the carb be rebuilt? I think you can still get part to rebuild it. Again Welcome and good luck.

Thanks for the prompt reply. Yes, the carb can be rebuilt and I have seen some kits on Ebay. However, this carb is missing part of the linkage and I think the bowl has a hole in it. I believe I need to have the engine rebuilt but that may be too costly; if so, a replacement engine is the next plan. I am not a mechanic but I can tinker enough to get most problems solved. One way or the other I will get the tractor running again.

Warhorse said:

Thanks for the prompt reply. Yes, the carb can be rebuilt and I have seen some kits on Ebay. However, this carb is missing part of the linkage and I think the bowl has a hole in it. I believe I need to have the engine rebuilt but that may be too costly; if so, a replacement engine is the next plan. I am not a mechanic but I can tinker enough to get most problems solved. One way or the other I will get the tractor running again.

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Post the numbers off the engine and the carb. Does the engine turn over?

Welcome to LawnWorld! :welcome:

We moved your thread to the Craftsman forum.

You would be better off buying a new whole engine off of one of the small engine warehouses.

gfp55 said:

Post the numbers off the engine and the carb. Does the engine turn over?

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Oops: I would suspect information such an model and serial numbers would be very useful. The model number of the engine is: BFMS2666C while the serial number is: 0674-820441. The only markings I can find on the Carb are: DDYY.

No, the engine will not turn over. It was running, and running well when I parked it (outside behind the garage but under a deck) 14 years ago :ashamed:. No doubt RUST is the culprit. I suspect moisture entered from the carb whereas I did not have the air cleaner assembly mounted and the screws of the carb to the intake manifold were only "finger tight".

I have resigned myself to favoring a replacement engine however, I am curious as to wheather or not this engine can be salvaged.

I am anticipating tilling a full acre of land. Fourteen years ago I would have assigned this task to the ss/16 but after reading many forums I feel it would be to my best interest to consider an older model Case or Ingersoll. I am partial to the older equipment.

As I look for a replacement tractor I intend on restoring the ss/16. I owe it that much. As a matter of fact, if I go that route I believe I will "Trick" it out with chrome and a new paint job. As I mentioned, I am retired so this would be a project of love more than that of necessity.

The bottom line is: I do need a strong garden tractor to replace the ss/16 and I do need advice or helpful information regarding the restoration project.

Brian.

You said the engine is stuck, if you remove the spark plugs and pour automatic transmission fluid till the cylinders are full, let that sit in there for about a week, if you check it in about two or three days and some of the fluid is missing, refill. After a week, drain the crankcase of oil and don't try to use the starter to turn the engine over. Try to turn the engine over by hand. You should have already removed the engine covers (tins) so you can clean things. Don't use the flywheel fins to turn the engine because they break very easy. I use a big strap wrench to wrap the solid part of the flywheel and then try to turn the engine (clockwise) DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE COUNTERCLOCKWISE !!! If it moves a little then let things set for some time so the fluid can soak in, then turn it some more. If the engine will not move, check to see if the fluid is full and let it sit for some more time 2-3 days and repeat. It should move after the soaking, but sometimes takes longer. Keep us posted on the stuck engine. Regards

Thank you for the reply. :thumbsup: Your suggestion makes sense to un-seize the engine without moving the pistons and possibly causing damage to the walls. I do, however, have a couple of questions due to the engine is an opposed twin.

While still mounted to the tractor Obviously I can only put the fluid in from the spark plug ports to the point where it will begin to run out. Will this be enough? If not, should I remove the engine completely, rotate the block and treat each cylinder, as you suggested, seperately and then re-install the sparkplugs and then let the engine sit for a week or so?

My other question is: could I introduce the fluid through the intake mainfold with the plugs still installed and fill the cylinders that way?

I do not want to damage the walls and your suggestion does make sense, but I need to know if the cylinders need to be completely full.

Oh, by the by: I checked the oil in the engine and it was fairly clean so I must have changed it prior to parking the tractor. If I need to rotate the block, would it be best to drain the oil first?

Warhorse said:

Thank you for the reply. :thumbsup: Your suggestion makes sense to un-seize the engine without moving the pistons and possibly causing damage to the walls. I do, however, have a couple of questions due to the engine is an opposed twin.

While still mounted to the tractor Obviously I can only put the fluid in from the spark plug ports to the point where it will begin to run out. Will this be enough? If not, should I remove the engine completely, rotate the block and treat each cylinder, as you suggested, seperately and then re-install the sparkplugs and then let the engine sit for a week or so?

My other question is: could I introduce the fluid through the intake mainfold with the plugs still installed and fill the cylinders that way?

I do not want to damage the walls and your suggestion does make sense, but I need to know if the cylinders need to be completely full.

Oh, by the by: I checked the oil in the engine and it was fairly clean so I must have changed it prior to parking the tractor. If I need to rotate the block, would it be best to drain the oil first?

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Yes, It will be enough, just check in a day or two and refill if needed. You will not have to remove the engine and it will make it easier to turn the engine flywheel clockwise. The fluid will leak passed the rings and fill the crankcase and if its over full can hydrolock the engine when you try to turn the engine over by turning the flywheel clockwise and if you force it you can damage parts inside. I see your logic but will be more work that is not needed to get the same result. Time is the thing with this, give the fluid time. Now if you want to remove the engine to work on other parts of the tractor, you could bolt the engine down to a work bench, but when its time to try to start it you will need to run wires, fuel and things. If you need to ask more just post and we will try to get you an answer. I hope I answered your questions, but if not let me know.

Doesn't really matter, to find and buy the parts for this engine are quite prohibitive.

Fish said:

Doesn't really matter, to find and buy the parts for this engine are quite prohibitive.

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I have 1972 16.5 Onan on a Gravely 816 that gotten parts for some new some used. If the engine ran when he last used it he should be able to get it running again with a little work.

Moving day is fast approaching. I've missed the window for the type of garden I want to plant so I believe I will make this a whinter project and actually restor the tractor. In the meantime I am looking for a 1980's Case 444 through 448 to set up the ground for my garden next spring. I intend on tilling an acre. I like the hydrolics on the case. Any recommendations as to which model would best suit me? I will also be using it to haul logs out of the woods and to clear trails on just a little more than 5 acres of a messy wooded lot filled with undergrowth and such.

Warhorse said:

Hello Mower people.

I retired about 4 months ago and found I have lots of time on my hands to do just about anything that comes to mind. The reason I joined is due to a project I have decided to take on. I have a 1974 ss/16 with an Onan opposed twin in it that hasn't been cranked since 2000. I've owned it for a little more than 30 years and I am rather partial about it. We (My wife and I) are fixin to move to the country on a five acre lot were I can start another large garden. This is why I want to get my workhorse up and running again. I need a carburator and I am having a problem locating one. Does anyone know if the Onan will accept any other type of carburator other than the one that it has?

I am interested in meeting new people and discussing gardens and tractors so this is my introduction and plea for help.:smile:

I hope to hear from other members soon.

Brian.

Click to expand...

Hi Brian,
My name is Jim. I retired a little over 6 years ago. Like you I am a DIY'er and advocate od Sears garden tractors. The Onan's became obsolete after Cummings bought them out around the turn of the century. This makes todays efforts to maintain them extremely expensive (mainly because of availability of new parts). Used parts are sometimes available, but are risky in respect that they might not be as good as what you are trying to replace. A typical price for an overhaul kit for a Onan is $1200. The carb's were mostly Marvel Schebler DD models and were, and still are, very expensive. An overhaul kit is available, at around $70, and the brass float to replace the fiber one that generally goes bad form cracking is another $30 or so. I have five Sears tractors all form the 1970's. I have replaced 3 of the five with Predator engines form Harbor Freight. They are easy retrofits. They are Honda clones. The Honda GX670 and the newer GX690 are virtually the same engine. The Predator retails for $749. The Honda GX690 (the GX670 is also obsolete) is $1500-$1700 depending on vendor. It doesn't come with the muffler. That's another $200 or so. I just did one on my 1975 SS-16. It took about a day. The frame of the tractor is required to be re-bored to mount the new engine, and is a little tricky to get right. A 1" to 1-1/8" adapter for the pulley shaft is required. Drive belt adjustment is required, and sometimes a new correct length belt is required. If it hasn't run since 2000 you probably need one, anyway. They do dry-rot. Minor cutting out of the hood may be required for clearance when closing the hood because of the new configuration of the muffler. I converted the electric starter that was on the new engine to use the choke and throttle cables that were already on the tractor and removed electric control box. My 1975 also has electric lift and angle on the front, and electric angle for the rear blade. I fabricated dual wheel spacers from two 8" steel wheels, and attached four SUNF AO33's on the rear. On the front original ribbed tires I placed links of #60 roller chain for adding traction when pushing snow with the blade, or blades, angled. I designed and had professionally made, a new dash panel decal to reflect the changes. I also added two more headlight/driving light/fog light units in the upper grill for clearer vision if pushing snow at night. Four new illuminated switches are also installed in the dash panel. I have been into gardening, in the past. I still have a tiller (Rroto-Spader) as Sears calls it; I doubled the tines by bating the original tines off of the tiller and added standard tiller tine plates to accept regular tines. I added flotation tires, transformed it form lift to pull type, doubled the drive belts, and added a 11 hp electric start engine. In the near future I want to replace it with a 13 hp. Predator. And on and on. I can go for hours talking about what I have done to make these old brutes more versatile.
And Brian, I realize the concern of many people to maintain the integrity of these old tractors and keep them as original as possible, often with the thought in mind that they are more valuable that way - but in simple language - they are not. I have done it both ways. A retrofit project to me is just as exiting, and time consuming (if you will) as trying to maintain integrity, but because of times, it is not advisable to do it that way. It is all about whether you want people to look at your tractor as original, and admire your integrity for maintaining it that way, or whether, as you stated, you want something to garden with. My five tractors are all daily users. All workable. All will do gardens, work in the yard, (out-cut my 54" Husqvarna), and I have about 30 attachments that work with them. I am 69 years old and have no desire for anything else. I have seen what the newer one are not capable of, and I am well aware of what the older ones will do, without fail.
I hope that this might have helped a little, and if you are interested I have more that I can relay. Good luck with your project, and have a nice day. Sorry to take so much of your time. You need to get busy.
Jim

I have a sears suburban and would love to repower it, but I noticed that the engine I have turn in a clockwise rotation as viewed from the pulley side of the motor, don't the predator engines turn counter clockwise?

Is the original engine the cast iron OHV tecumseh or an Onan engine?

16hp onan