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1970 Lawnboy Model # 5004

#1

R

Rbp401

I am trying to restore this Lawnboy model # 5004. I am having trouble,finding some of the parts that are missing. What type of on/Off switch did it have and it doesn't seem to have a primer but a choke lever that maybe attaches to a rod that has a pull knob that is next to the recoil mechanism. I got what little information that I have from parts tree schematics. I cant find a picture of one just like this one. It doesn't look exactly like a C engine but it doesn't have a primer like a D engine. Any information would be greatly appreciated.




#4

R

Rbp401

Thank so much for the response to my post I really appreciate the diagrams and info that helps a lot. Have any of you ever seen one. The deck appears to have been green, the brick top I cant tell if it was red or green too rusty, but what is confusing is the wheel adjuster have like a teal blue plastic tip which I thought only came on the tan colored mowers. If anyone has any photos of one it would be a big help. Thannks!

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#5

F

fabricgator

Yeah, how about TAN? My grand aunt had a tan LawnBoy engine that had a Green and Red base? Frankenstein?


#6

F

fabricgator

My first time with pictures...

Hers, (my grand aunt) had a flip open wratchet handle that you would crank like a New Years Eve noise maker. Then when you went to close the handle, it would release the spring tension and spin the flywheel. As a boy, I almost made a smoothie of my little brother while playing in the garage. I can still remember the walloping.

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#7

P

Phototone

I have a "C" engine that has a cream colored shroud/gas tank. Not dark enough to be tan. Don't know what color the rest of the mower was, don't have it.


#8

unclelee

unclelee





#9

R

Rbp401

Thank you very much Uncle Lee, I thought that is what it looked like although some of the C engine ones were more yellow. I have had many Lawnboys over the years and I think this one has been the best, I have owned it over 30 years and have been pulling it with a rope for the last 25 I just recently got a new recoil off ebay and just decided to restore it while I was at it, I have this one and one more a 79 F engine model, I recently had a little trouble with it and the muffler was so gummed up I couldn't even find the hole for the exhaust to go in and the carb was out of adjustment previous owner had adjusted too rich for the stopped up muffler now I think I have it too lean it is the 1/4 inch screw on topof carb hard to adjust while running and I cant find any specs for how many turns out it should be I know 1 1/2 wasn't it. Seems the paint everyone is recommending is Grabber Green duplicolor or rustoleum. I v been trying to get my hand on an edger like the one pictured but always get outbid or the seller wont ship. Thanks again I appreciate all the time you spent helping me out.


#10

unclelee

unclelee

No problem brother.
When you are ready for decals try rsmotorsports_racing_collectables on eBay.
Sam is great to deal with, and if you don't see what you need, just send him a pm and ask.
Lee


#11

R

Rbp401

Does anyone have any recommendations for paint color grabber green does not seem to be it my green is a paler green actually not very nice green but I want to keep it original. Grabber green seems to be on the fingertip start models not on the top recoil models. Thanks for any information!



#13

R

Rbp401

Does anyone have a recommendation for paint color for the pale green color on the 5004 I cant seem to find any engine enamels that come close.


#14

R

Rbp401

Thanks Lee! I saw the Key lime and the Satin Green Apple thought they were very close, I don't know much about the rustoleum 2x paint wasnt sure if it would hold up on a mower.


#15

2smoked

2smoked

I am looking forward to seeing your finished product. I have been pursuing a mower that is a bit newer than yours, but is the same color, I believe. I just can't get the owner to respond to me. Finding an early 60's Lawn Boy Bricktop for the right price, that is in good condition would fulfill my collecting dreams. (I think.)


#16

R

Rbp401

These are the rustoleum colors I found to be close matches key lime, satin green apple, green citrus. I tried to insert a photo and it wouldn't do it, any recommendations on how to do this.

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#17

R

Rbp401

Sorry it did work so I'm not brain dead that's good news. The recoil mechanism I bought off ebay I believe it is the correct color I have remnants of the original and it matches the color of the one I bought. None of these colors are exact but I'm sure any will work if they hold up to gas, bet they wont . Only engine or wheel enamel will and I haven't found any in key lime.


#18

unclelee

unclelee

Maybe when you paint, you could let it cure for a few days, then clear coat with something like Duplicolor clear engine enamel.
I have seen that done with Oakland Daisy satin to reproduce the buttercup color, and mixing paint brands didn't mess up the under coat.
Lee


#19

B

bwright1818

I don't mean to hijack the thread but I just picked up one of those pictured 3003s, the Buttercup. It says "limited distribution." Anybody else out there have one?


#20

L

Lawnboy77

Sorry it did work so I'm not brain dead that's good news. The recoil mechanism I bought off ebay I believe it is the correct color I have remnants of the original and it matches the color of the one I bought. None of these colors are exact but I'm sure any will work if they hold up to gas, bet they wont . Only engine or wheel enamel will and I haven't found any in key lime.

Just to throw this out there for more options/info. You could go to the local PPG automotive paint shop and have them match and mix a quart of the acrylic enamel paint. When it comes to matching colors they are the best and of course if you plan on using the machine it will be much more durable than rattle can paint. I just had a couple quarts mixed for a 1967 Lawnboy edger (green and beige), the price was about 30 bucks a quart. One other option would be to have it powder coated, I've had a few done that way and that's probably the best way to go in my opinion. It will be the most expensive though, just to give a ball park figure on price, the shop I use will media blast and powder coat a mower for around 100 bucks. Not too bad when you think about it, stripping old paint and surface prep is very time consuming and not really all that cheap either. What I have also done for those jobs where there is no good match for powder color is to have it coated in the closest color, then scuff it up with 320 grit and shoot the more correct color over the top of the powder coat. Hope this helps.


#21

R

Rbp401

I found 3 that might IMG_0909.jpgwork key lime, satin green apple, and citrus green none are exact


#22

R

Rbp401

Sorry for all the repeat posts, the link I saved to my desktop is not getting updated. I had your same idea Lee spray it with clear engine enamel after. Powder coating is an excellent thought if they will do that for 100. Is that everything frame handles and shroud, you can spend that much in supplies doing it yourself, not counting all the work involved in cleaning it up. I wish I would have checked into that, I still might powder coating is so durable. but colors are limited more I thought. But anyway, update for now the satin green apple matched the closest with black primer I was afraid it would be too light but the black primer toned it down a notch. Thanks for all the help.


#23

L

Lawnboy77

Powder coating is an excellent thought if they will do that for 100. Is that everything frame handles and shroud, you can spend that much in supplies doing it yourself, not counting all the work involved in cleaning it up. I wish I would have checked into that, I still might powder coating is so durable. but colors are limited more I thought.

Yes that includes everything, shroud deck and handles...of course prices are going to vary throughout the country. I've heard of some folks having to pay more than double for that. It's worth checking into, if not for this project, maybe for the next one. We all know you can't just stop at one. LOL I'm sure whatever route you take it's going to look great. Looking forward to seeing the results...those lime green C series are some of my favorites.


#24

R

Rbp401

I sprayed it with the satin green apple maybe missing a little yellow, overall not bad.




IMG_0918.jpg

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#25

2smoked

2smoked

I sprayed it with the satin green apple maybe missing a little yellow, overall not bad.

Overall not bad?---I think it looks fantastic! From the photos, the color match looks great.


#26

R

Rbp401

Thanks for the positive comment. I just got some clear engine enamel to put over the paint to make it more durable and i was reading the instructions last night and it said the stuff would not cure until you run the engine for 1 hr to heat it up, i haven't figured out how to heat it to 200 degrees for an hr, i first thought about putting it in the car and letting it bake in the car while i was at work , but the fumes are so strong i don't think I'm going to do that.


#27

unclelee

unclelee

I use Duplicolor engine enamel, just give it a couple days and it will cure nicely.
You could set it one your driveway and let it bake in the sun.


#28

R

Rbp401

I am trying to get the choke shutoff switch back to factory specs, it had none on it when I got it. I have located the spring and the choke rod, but have not figured out exactly how it goes together. Does anyone have any insight on how this works.


#29

R

Rbp401

What are you guys using for exhaust gaskets for C and D series engines I cant seem to find any.


#30

unclelee

unclelee

What are you guys using for exhaust gaskets for C and D series engines I cant seem to find any.

You may try this.
http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/3-16-Door-Rope-Gasket-p/6f316.htm


#31

P

Phototone


Are you wanting the "rope" gasket that goes between the muffler halves? Or are you wanting the gasket parts between the cylinder head and the muffler plate? Last time I checked you can still get the cylinder head to muffler plate gasket and metal shield from Lawnboy thru their online store.


#32

L

Lawnboy77

If you are talking about the original OMC rope gasket it is usually still available via ebay (see link below for one of the current listings). Like Phototone already mentioned, the rest of the gaskets are still available through Toro, or ebay. I usually check both sources because sometimes ebay sellers will beat Lawnboy/Toro on the pricing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lawn-Boy-Mo...996782?hash=item1a18c952ae:g:58kAAOSwvU5XNKb0


#33

R

Rbp401

Thanks I was referring to the small oval rubbery gasket found one on ebay didn't think about the rope gasket I guess I need that too. I am beginning to question my mental capacity as I add up how much money I have spent on piddly little parts for this thing, finally found all the parts to put the original choke on off switch back together 40 .00 later and I'm sitting here trying to figure out how they all go together. As soon as I get it all together I will post some more photos. I did find one other color made by Krylon that is closer called ivy leaf anyone looking for paint might want to take a lookIMG_0927.jpgIMG_0928.jpg


#34

unclelee

unclelee

You can't look at how much you are spending....lol you may not finish the old boy.
I am currently fixing up a 5020, and have a few hundred in it...and still need to get the mag deck welded up around the rear wheel height adjuster to get rid of the wear....$100 repair.
Then there are the little details...like should your wheel bolts have the OMC symbol on the head...lol $15 a piece if you say yes....coil condenser and plug wire..$45.
You see where I am going...we haven't even got started yet.
But...in the end you will have brought a great old machine back to life, and something unique you can know you did.


Lee



#35

2smoked

2smoked

None of my Lawn Boys are perfect cosmetic restorations, and yet I have stuck more than a few dollars into some of them. But I look at it this way: In the end, I have a nice collection of mowers that look nice, function beautifully, and will outlast any of today's fancy expensive mowers. There is also the fun and satisfaction of knowing that, by the touch of your tools, your cleaning brushes, and your patience, you have revived an old, American made, useful piece of motorized equipment.


#36

R

Rbp401

Thanks for all the positive comments and encouragement I am still working on trying to find all the piddly little parts to make it original, thought I had them all , finally found all the stop choke switch parts . Took a while to figure out how it worked. It was so simple I felt embarrassed. I am now working on the original recoil, for 30 years I wrapped a rope around it and it worked just fine. I put the recoil on and pulled and nothing, grabbed so I figured out there were pins that were missing, finally found the pins in New York and so far haven't got them to work right, maybe a spring or something I'm still missing to keep them pushed out where they are supposed to be. Just wanted to let everyone know I haven't given up and when I get it together I will post some photos. Thanks again for all the support.


#37

R

Rbp401

Almost finished a few little details and I'm doneIMG_0977.jpgIMG_0982.jpgIMG_0984.jpgIMG_0986.jpgIMG_0987.jpgIMG_0989.jpgIMG_0991.jpgIMG_0995.jpg


#38

unclelee

unclelee

Looking good!!!
Lee


#39

2smoked

2smoked

WOW!


#40

1982-4502

1982-4502

Hello,I have three Lawn boys,7268,7227,4502,and 1973 Cub Cadet 109 with 38 inch deck. restored them this year.


#41

unclelee

unclelee

Hello,I have three Lawn boys,7268,7227,4502,and 1973 Cub Cadet 109 with 38 inch deck. restored them this year.
I'm torn between the 7268 and the 7227. I like both shroud styles.
Lee


#42

1982-4502

1982-4502

I'm torn between the 7268 and the 7227. I like both shroud styles.
Lee
Hello, Lee, I like 7227 better. 7227run better than 7268,but 7268 are simpler to work on. 7227 run more stable. 7227 carb. is junk,and I use 5243 carb.,reed on them.I also have a 5243.001.jpg Kenneth


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