14HP Briggs Electrical question

[TillerTheTyler]

I've got a huskee lt4200 lawn tractor with a 14hp briggs motor. I purchased it used, once in a blue moon when I go to start it it doesn't want to do anything until I tighten up the battery terminals. Today, that happened, only when I tightened them it continued to do nothing at turn key. The battery is good, I even tried jump starting it off my car, still nothing. That makes me believe there is something going on that's not the battery or post terminals. I don't know much about electrical, but anything else i'm quite handy with. Does anyone know what could be the issue? Bad ground possibly? bad solenoid (it doesn't make any noise)? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[mechanic mark]

Check all electrical connections with " hands on" making sure everything is tight & secure, including all ground straps & cables. If you see rust or corrosion clean it up with a wire brush including chassis. Safety first wear safety glasses. Inspect backside of ignition switch, relays, safety switches including seat switch. Seat safety switches, located under seat, are easy to replace & are often the problem. Let us know what you find or need more help. Post model & serial numbers from tractor data plate or sticker as well as all numbers from engine data plate, thanks.

 

[Tinkerer200]

Surely you can do a more thorough checking such as using a good set of jumper cables to go directly from the battery to the starter terminal with the positive and directly from battery negative post to the engine, one side at a time will indicate if there is a cable problem, starter problem, battery problem.

I would point out that all insulating corrosion can not be seen. Corrosion insulating battery terminals in particular can be invisible.
Terminals and cables need to be metal bright.

Walt Conner

 

[KrashnKraka]

Surely you can do a more thorough checking such as using a good set of jumper cables to go directly from the battery to the starter terminal with the positive and directly from battery negative post to the engine, one side at a time will indicate if there is a cable problem, starter problem, battery problem.

I would point out that all insulating corrosion can not be seen. Corrosion insulating battery terminals in particular can be invisible.
Terminals and cables need to be metal bright.

Walt Conner

Maybe the OP just don't know and assumes a lot?
Many do..it's how stuff is.
What I would like to know is how is it the OP writes the terminals
need tightening. How do they get loose???

From the read the first connections to look at are those where
the wires met up with battery lug terminals. Verdigris and sulphates
hide in there very easily.
Also, products such as these are very helpful around low voltage
high current terminals.

CRC 2.26 ELECTRICAL LUBRICANT SPRAY | CRC Industries | John Barry Sales


KK

 

[Rivets]

Follow this procedure to pinpoint your problem. Read each part carefully and be sure you don't skip any connections.





Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.

First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*

Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*

Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*

Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*

Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*

Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.

After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.

Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.