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133412 0059 01 coil going out

#1

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Wood chipper, sight unseen. Just talking to a friend who lives over an hour away.

Discussing this over the phone. He pulled it out of storage and ran it for a while. Said he changed the plug (RJ19LM) removed the tank and cleaned out. Put it back on with fresh gas and fired it up. Said he ran it for about 10 minutes and shut it off. About 30 minutes later, it wouldn't start. So he removed the carb and cleaned it. It wasn't the carb.
The coil had burned out. So he put on another one. It started and ran fine. He shut it off for a little while, and then tried to start it again. It won't hit a lick, even with starter fluid. So we're thinking it's the coil again.
He said the coil he took off, looks like OEM.

So I'm wondering if something could be blowing out the coils? Bad on/off switch? Bad ground. He said the ground wasn't rusty, but it's not easy to get to. (Behind the chipper housing)


#2

I

ILENGINE

If electric start could be shorting battery voltage to the kill wire when the key is shut off.


#3

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

It's not electric start.


#4

StarTech

StarTech

Could be a bare kill wire touching ground. Mice loves chewing on wires. But I have been seeing multiple posts on various forums where Briggs coils are failing or arriving dead lately. Lousy Chinese parts. And many after markets are even worst.


#5

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Could be a bare kill wire touching ground. Mice loves chewing on wires. But I have been seeing multiple posts on various forums where Briggs coils are failing or arriving dead lately. Lousy Chinese parts. And many after markets are even worst.

Something to do with the kill switch, maybe? Or one of those wires?


#6

S

slomo

Try a non resistor plug.

My guess is a super high resistance plug taxing the snot out of the coil making it draw max current, getting hot and or shorting some windings???? Test the plug resistance for grins.


#7

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Try a non resistor plug.

My guess is a super high resistance plug taxing the snot out of the coil making it draw max current, getting hot and or shorting some windings???? Test the plug resistance for grins.

I finally told him to either bring it to me, or sell it.

If it sits for a while, (I don't know how long, because he leaves it for a couple days then takes another stab at it), it'll crank and run fine. When he shuts it off, and tries to restart it, he get's nothing. Even with starter fluid.
When it's running, it'll run for 30 minutes without missing a lick. So you're coil idea, which sounds accurate, makes me wonder why it keeps running. And only won't restart.
Is it because the coil has no choice, at operating speed?


#8

A

Auto Doc's

Wood chipper, sight unseen. Just talking to a friend who lives over an hour away.

Discussing this over the phone. He pulled it out of storage and ran it for a while. Said he changed the plug (RJ19LM) removed the tank and cleaned out. Put it back on with fresh gas and fired it up. Said he ran it for about 10 minutes and shut it off. About 30 minutes later, it wouldn't start. So he removed the carb and cleaned it. It wasn't the carb.
The coil had burned out. So he put on another one. It started and ran fine. He shut it off for a little while, and then tried to start it again. It won't hit a lick, even with starter fluid. So we're thinking it's the coil again.
He said the coil he took off, looks like OEM.

So I'm wondering if something could be blowing out the coils? Bad on/off switch? Bad ground. He said the ground wasn't rusty, but it's not easy to get to. (Behind the chipper housing)
Check for a low oil sensor on the engine. If it has one, check and top off the oil level first. Next, disconnect it and see if the engine will fire up.


#9

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Check for a low oil sensor on the engine. If it has one, check and top off the oil level first. Next, disconnect it and see if the engine will fire up.

It doesn't have an oil sensor on it.

From him, yesterday.

"Update: after we talked Wed..& chipper would not restart. Thurs I took carb off again and cleaned again...wire, carb spray, and air....also changed oil. Put back together..no start. Left it and went to Texarkana..back today...started rught up. Let run a min and shut off...started right back up...let run 3 min & turned off, started right back up...let run 5 min....started again...each start had to choke."


#10

S

slomo

each start had to choke."
Okay so is it fixed? Sounds normal to me.


#11

A

Auto Doc's

The true test will be under load, if it bogs, the main jet will need better cleaning other than just stabbing a small random gauge wire through it. Usually, If I don't have a correct jet pin tool, I will put a wire through and then turn, spin the jet on the wire and use some carb spray to clean off any stuck fuel varnish stuck in the small orifice of the jet. Jets can be tricky to clean properly. Hope this works out for you.


#12

I

ILENGINE

The true test will be under load, if it bogs, the main jet will need better cleaning other than just stabbing a small random gauge wire through it. Usually, If I don't have a correct jet pin tool, I will put a wire through and then turn, spin the jet on the wire and use some carb spray to clean off any stuck fuel varnish stuck in the small orifice of the jet. Jets can be tricky to clean properly. Hope this works out for you.
Just as a side note. The OEM engine manufacturers recommend using a wooden tooth pick for cleaning the main jet. Just have to be careful that the end of the toothpick doesn't jam and break off in the jet.


#13

PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Just as a side note. The OEM engine manufacturers recommend using a wooden tooth pick for cleaning the main jet. Just have to be careful that the end of the toothpick doesn't jam and break off in the jet.

Have you ever had that happen between two teeth? It's quite the challenge.


#14

I

ILENGINE

Have you ever had that happen between two teeth? It's quite the challenge.
I have been lucky but no. Have broke one off in a jet. That was fun to get out.


#15

A

Auto Doc's

Maybe, plastic dental toothpicks would work better as long as it's not forced, they're tougher than wooden toothpicks.

The ones I have the most trouble with are super tiny jet orifices in the import scooters. Usually, I have to use a single wire strand out of an old section of throttle cable to.

I don't advise anyone use copper strand wire because they do get stuck and break off easily. That stuff will not come out without destroying the jet trying.

Another thing that works very well for me is real fine gauge nickel steel none wound instrument strings. Violin and Mandolin have the smallest gauges I've found.


#16

I

ILENGINE

Maybe, plastic dental toothpicks would work better as long as it's not forced, they're tougher than wooden toothpicks.

The ones I have the most trouble with are super tiny jet orifices in the import scooters. Usually, I have to use a single wire strand out of an old section of throttle cable to.

I don't advise anyone use copper strand wire because they do get stuck and break off easily. That stuff will not come out without destroying the jet trying.

Another thing that works very well for me is real fine gauge nickel steel none wound instrument strings. Violin and Mandolin have the smallest gauges I've found.
The thing with the wooden toothpick is the wood is not smooth so it captured the gunky debris in the jet in the fibers of the wood.


#17

S

slomo

The thing with the wooden toothpick is the wood is not smooth so it captured the gunky debris in the jet in the fibers of the wood.
(y) Just as in wood is slightly abrasive especially when wet slash swollen.


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