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Dealership where I bought the mower said it was very unlikely there was anything wrong with the clutch due to the belt breaking. They figure there is still part of the belt stuck somewhere. I haven't found any yet, and all of the pulleys seem to spin without issue, but in cleaning around one...

Okay, so new clutch, purchase a torque wrench to tighten the clutch after replacement, and I need to find an impact driver to remove the bad clutch? How do I make sure that I invest in the right torque wrench for the job?

Makes sense if one belt needed to be replaced, the other does too. Good thought. Where is the flat idler from your arrow?

:) Okay. I'll have to go look again. I didn't find anything on that side of the pto. I found that plug on the other side, but I don't think that little pig tail wire was the one we unplugged.

So call the dealer where I purchased the mower and see if they can get a new clutch for me? Ballpark idea on the cost? If I don't have a torque wrench, is it a better idea to buy a torque wrench and replace it myself, or find someone to help me haul the mower there to have them replace it for...

Okay. Found the electrical on the other side. Wife was able to get her arm in there and remove the wires. Blades still spun up with the engine.

Sorry. I have a red...I don't know. It's like what you have to shoot the ball in pinball??? Pull up and it sort of clicks and the blades engage. Push back down and it sort of clicks again and the blades disengage, except it's not doing that since the belt blew up.

Am I looking for #12 in the diagram?

Help me with where to unplug the pto so that I can test starting it without it connected.

Probably just horrible non-technical vocabulary choices by me, sorry. If we are talking about the pulley right under the engine, I'll go give that a gander and see if anything looks visibly wrong there. (Some belt wrapped in there, something that looks damaged etc.). Thanks.

This seems like a solid plan. I will do this asap. Start of dumb questions... - Is this a specific pulley that I need to look up to figure out or is this applicable to any on the mower deck (Or is this on the engine itself?) - Will unplugging the clutch become obvious if I take off the plastic...

This seems like a solid plan. I will do this asap. Start of dumb questions... - Is this a specific pulley that I need to look up to figure out or is this applicable to any on the mower deck (Or is this on the engine itself?) - Will unplugging the clutch become obvious if I take off the plastic...

791988

Are stens and rotary other parts or other brands or what? I purchased the hustler belt and am not having luck getting it working correctly.

What are the three parts after the belt part? My lawn is getting to rain forest level.

+1 for me! So what do I look for next to figure out why it spins up when I start the engine with the deck blades not engaged? Seems like something is preventing it from disengaging possibly. Thanks.

Sorry. Started a new thread so the title was appropriate, but to answer quickly. Hustler Rapter 52" Model - 931899 Serial - 12101688 Ordered online. Was sent a digital copy of the owner's manual. Manual sent said belt was part 791988...

Any easy way to get under the plastic cover with the cup holders etc.? My immediate thought was to try to follow from the lever down, but I'm not sure how to get my eyes in/under there. And what would I look for?

Not sure how to take the deck off, but I'll see what I can do for a photo. Harder part will probably be getting it sized so I can post it. :)

Any way for me to double check they sent me the correct belt?

Took the belt all of the way off. Started it up without the belt on. Installed belt again. Same result. When I use the lever that engages and disengages the mower deck (or should) it still tells the engine it can't start with it already engaged. I have to have it disengaged to start the...

Looking for some help figuring out why my mower deck is coming on when I start my engine. My deck belt blew up the last time I was mowing, so I just installed the new belt that arrived in the mail, but now when I start up my engine, the mower deck spins as well. Obviously the engine should...

Purchased one and it just arrived, but I must not be doing something right. Got the belt on. It's tight, but should be right? Hence the tension pulley? Anyway, when I turn the engine on, the deck belt is starting up with it. The level to engage the blades doesn't seem to be doing anything...

Found a site with Hustler OEM parts and ordered. Thanks again.

Thanks! Does it matter much which brand to purchase? Looks like there are a bazillion belts in this model. Anyone happy with one or trust one? Thanks guys!

Model - 931899 Serial - 12101688

I have a hustler raptor, 52" deck. Made it part way through the lawn today and the deck belt exploded. I mean, I had to get a box cutter to get that thing off of the mower. I'm pretty sure it was at one time a single belt. :) Can anyone help me with what belt I need to replace it with so I...

I have a first year hustler raptor and I'm wondering if anyone can help me with how to adjust the deck height so that it is more even. I was recently in to the dealer to et replacement parts that had rattled off, but it appears this is another part of the original model that was done away with...

Model # 931899

Sorry it's a first year raptor. Five years old I think. 52".

Hex socket instead of 12 point, an a 30" breaker bar an it came right off. New blades make it feel like a new mower. :)

So I had a tire repaired, but it hasn't helped with the drive. I still feel like the right stick is operating at about 75%. If I drive with both arms full forward, I'll still do a circle. What can I look at to see why I'm at a loss of power on the right side? Anything that needs adjusting...

Model # 931899

Only sockets I had with my largest wrench were the 12 point, so I went and bought a hex that fits and the hex is still gripping. I'm going to give the breaker bar with the hex a chance. If not I'll have to see if I can social distance borrow something to try cutting it with. Just to be clear...

What about a third option. What does the process look like if I buy a new tire? I've never done tire work before.

Help me out here with your experience I guess? Previous post said use slime and never use fix a flat.

What do you use to cut the bolt head off? This sounds like another expense. I'll look into spindles and see what they cost. That sounds cheaper than the $30 breaker bar I just bought tonight. I'll buy some never seize for the bolts when I put the new blades on. First time I've ever...

Well damn. I just got back from the store with a bottle of slime and was going to ask how to figure out how much to put in. Now that's a bad idea because it's going to ruin the rims? Not shaping up to be a good day here. Bought a breaker bar, as was suggested, to get the stuck on blade off...

So I'm starting to get pretty frustrated. Just went out and bought a 30" breaker bar. Tried it twice and instead of the bolt holding strong like with the ratchet, it slipped and left me with a round bolt. I wish I would have stuck with the ratchet because that at least didn't ruin the bolt.

https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/automotive/tires-tire-care/slime-reg-tire-sealant/10008/p-1444436200589.htm...

4x4 instead of 2x4 is another good idea I should have thought of. Probably have that lying around. Need to see what I have that could work as a pipe.

Well, option two sounds desirable. Can I spray it in and then start to mow (whenever I can get the last blade to come off for replacement?) Or does it need to set over night etc? Thanks!

And I guess it looks like five years for the blades maybe. Seems like I've had the mower longer than that. Can't get over the shape of the old blades. Looks like they've been sharpened before.

That's probably a good idea for the block even so that I'm trying trying to hold the block while I start applying pressure etc. All of these things that don't seem obvious when you replace blades for the first time. Thanks guys.

A bit of dusting off and it does say it's tubeless. 11x4.005 nhs I don't see any visible issues (cracking, something puncturing it etc.).

Slow leak. Last fall I could inflate and it would be just fine for 2 or 3 hours of mowing, but a week later when I'd mow, it would need to be inflated again.

If it ends up being tubeless, I need to buy a new tire, but then it's basically just prying it off the wheel and prying the new one back on and inflating?

Sounds like there is a small tool to remove the valve core?

Didn't know there was such a thing as a blade removal tool! That's beats my chunk of 2x4 for sure. Going to pick one of those up today! Thanks!