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pickup tube in tank gets clogged at the top, where the 90 degree bend is. tube was updated to one with a screen at the bottom. tube pulls out of top of tank and is easy to get to. caution!!!!! drain tank down below fitting level before pulling

i retired from an exmark dealer as a tech. the 708 did hold up well, no real issues

the 708 is made in china, kohler is usa

check for wiped cam lobes, sheared flywheel key and does it have the right ignition coils on it

if the gas tank has 3 lines replace the vent- the little white thing. if it has 2 lines replace the gas cap and make sure its a vented cap

200 then 370 in lb if bolt, 150 then 315 if studs

I will go slow so even star will understand, yes the switch is normally closed. on this system when you get off the seat it openssssssssssss the switch. Now 48 years in this field and 25 on exmark I know what Im talking about. I only answer what im sure of unlike some others. If you worked on...

once the parking brake is released the seat switch is the only one that matters. can bypass with a wire jumping the connection, for testing only. if your system has a tilt sensor bypass and leave it that way

most likely a bad ignition coil, very common on that engine. would use 25 707 03-s coil kit. cheapest way to get both coils

on this model the governor parts are built onto the cam. there is a plastic ball Seperator that is held onto the cam by 2 little plastic pins, they broke. thats why you get the delay action. need to pull oil pan and replace that part

without the screen the fitting can plug up at the 90 degree turn, clean fuel no problem. there is an aftermarket plastic shutoff that stens sells that would work. also type in fuel tank shutoff on amazon, many options

I would suspect the pto clutch

the diode is about 2 inch up from connector on engine side. on scag there is no power to ign and carb solenoid with key in crank position so they feed power off starter through the diode, when it shorts it feeds power back to starter in on position. need to cut heat shrink coating back

if its a kohler engine there is a diode in the engine wire harness that goes that will cause this when it shorts

why are you answering a 2 year old post?

there is voltage drop at the solenoid due to multiple connection in the system. it doesnt shift properly. the cure is a relay kit

since it works for a while testing the connection wont tell you anything. but to test it unplug fuel pump, red wire will have power at all times with key on, 12 volts. computer grounds black wire to activate fuel pump. suspect bad fuel pump with your problem. to unplug lift up on white tab, will...

there is a damper on each lever, if bad controls will be jerky. with engine off move each lever forward and back, there should be resistance both ways. if not replace dampers as needed

the code is stored, you can read it now

is it fuel injected? if so turn key on and off 3 times leaving it on on the third time count the flashes. its a 4 digit code. 10 flashes is a 0. so 10 1 7 4 would be a lean fuel mixture. it could flash out more than one 4 digit code. it will always flash out a 6 1 code at the end ps all codes...

pull the easiest plug, stick a phillips screw driver in, turn by HAND until screwdriver is farthest out. take a white paint pen and mark screen and housing at same spot anywhere. install plug and timing light. run at idle. line on screen should be slightly behind housing mark with timing advance...

can use timing light to check it, no teardown

did you torque the flywheel? may have sheared again. on a kohler command its 52 ft lb

if gas is coming out of exhaust the electric fuel pump float is stuck, to check remove the small black vent hose and see if fuel come out while cranking. new fuel pump is needed, not cheap. the pump can be disassembled and cleaned. no parts are available being a so called sealed unit.

this engine uses hydraulic lifters, no adjustment. also no compression release, my best guess is a weak battery or starter

no fluid from one pump goes to the other without going through the filter. so even if one pump wipes out the other is protected.

looks like thats where the primer bulb hose hooks up

the 2 most common leak points on this machine is where the hoses clamp, they get hard with age. most times just tightening the clamp will do, the other is the dump valve. simple fix is to unscrew and remove, then replace the o-ring.

that is the bowl vent, your float needle isnt sealing

holds 6qt of 30wt oil, there is a full level plug on side of trans

yes the 2 barrel nikki has 2 solenoids, when the key is turned on they should click. there was some problems with the hour meter module. bad diodes. would either stick on and kill battery or not power the solenoids. on second thought it may be a walbro carb. either way same problem

on this model they shim under the engine to align the coupler. when done right you should be able to slide the coupler freely between engine and hydro. back and forth, if not right it will fail.

the governor is built onto the cam, it uses large ball bearings in a flyweight system. the part that spaces the balls is made out of plastic, it locks onto the cam with 2 small tabs, if they break off the governor will work but with a long delay.

yes the computer grounds the coil for spark. go to kohler.com/en/engines/manuals and look up your service manual. if has an efi section that should help a lot

check the dead cylinder for spark, if ok remove valve cover and see if a rocker arm came loose. if so retorque to 160 in lb and turn engine over slowly by hand 2 revolution to bleed down the hydraulic lifter. or you will bent a push rod.

this model has an auto brake module, it also controls the safety system. if water gets into the module it corrodes the connections. unplug the module. [ not easy ] and check. the grease will look blue due to the copper. if so you will need a module and wire harness

Its a broken shock valve, looking from rear of machine at the dump valve lever the plug on the left side is the reverse. remove and replace with a 126-7466 shock valve. when removing old shock valve make sure the small spring is still hooked on, if not you will need to fish out broken piece with...

only the hoses on backwards will cause this or you put the swashplate arm on upside down. check diagrams on partstree.

so starr it seems kohler backed me up. ive only been doing this 48 years, wtf do i know . also you may want to read sb-174. you will read voltage but it wont power anything. and as i kept saying if it has no battery but never got an answer back

if it has no battery is a rectfier only. a regulator needs at least 4volts at b+ to work. i know that the rectifier only system is not even mentioned in the service manual but its in use on several manufacturers

if you add a battery then you need to replace the rectifier with a rectifier regulator. stator is the same

I see none of you have worked on rectifier only systems that have no battery, that directly power ptos. 38v at no load, when pto is on it will drop to the proper range

most likely is the rear oil seal came out. somewhat common with that engine. remove pto clutch and install a new seal

your mower has no battery, so your rectifier is changing ac directly to dc . so 38v is right. you dont have a regulator. your just powering the pto clutch

check tire pressure, 10 psi they may have 30 in it

the hydros drive off a shaft mounted on flywheel, and deck belt off pto side

or seat switch

ive seen this problem twice. if the regulator overcharges and voltage gets too high the computer lowers the engine speed, when voltage drops it revs back up over and over again. unplug the regulator. if the problem goes away replace the regulator

your part number says its a right hand hydro 12cc. the pump kit is 135-6826. this info can be found on exmark dealer advisory #081519 from august 15 2019. the rotating grp kit is 135-6830

can be as high as 320 degree on an air cooled engine, that will take your skin off.