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Make sure the handles are all the way out. inspect the neutral switches that are at the bottom of each one and check that they are closed. I had the bolts drop out of one switch and that stopped me cold. Both switches have to be closed, in order for the starting circuit to engage. Of course, you...

Possibly, or he didn't think to let us know what fixed it for him.

If it's only one bracket that's doing it, then I would replace that bracket or take it off, straighten it, and weld the corners to give them more strength. The cotter pin solution also sounds reasonable. It being faulty because it came from a big box store sounds like a desperate conspiracy...

My grand nephew put on a blade upside down... that was really a weird one.

My solenoid is not on the starter, but between the battery and the starter. Just follow the positive cable (usually red) to find it on yours. When there is simply clicking and the battery is good, then it's a bad connection somewhere. I would start by loosening and cleaning all of my grounds...

I never knew such a thing existed.

My guess is that you're got a bit of water in your gas tank that sometimes gets pumped to the carb/injector. After a gas fill, dump in a cup of alcohol. It is miscible in both gas and water, so with all the bumps and vibration of mowing, it will allow the water to be burned through your engine...

Why not save a lot of money and just make one? I have a 2017 Raptor SD and it does not burn my lawn, but if I stop, I always idle it down or turn it off. It might be my bahia grass that's just resistant, but it just doesn't happen. However, since it's spoken of often here, I've looked at the...

I use anti-seize on my blade bolts. A bit always gets on the bolt face next to the blade, and instead of over-tightening the bolt, it seems to slip a bit under it. I use a Ryobi 1/2 impact wrench rather than my air tools and never have a problem. There are two types of anti-seize available...

I've mowed the lawn all the way, three times now without throwing a belt. Wow. That feels good. It's so reliable that I actually sunburned my legs from only having to pause to keep gassing her up every two hours. Since replacing my deck, I've also cut my grass cutting time by about 25%. What...

I did not expect the new deck to affect mowing times. It usually takes me a bit more than 7.5 hours to mow it all. I just did it under 6 hours. That was a nice bonus. Now I need to find out where I didn't mow!!! :D :D :D

I just ordered the three idler pulleys from Byrds in Lafayette County. They have them all in stock. I also ordered ten 205FF bearings from Amazon. I get about 75 hours out of a set of bearings, so I'll be changing these again in September.

All decked out... I've abused this mower since I bought it almost 4 years ago. The growth was way over my head in places, and it took my friend and I a few months to get through it all. Now it looks like a huge lawn! Unfortunately, the deck has taken most of the abuse. I lost the baffles over a...

I replaced all of those grade 3 bolts with grade 7 a year or so ago. I still had two brackets on the right side break. Fortunately, the replacement kit was only $52 and the brackets from the body to the axle were quite beefier.

Two things... in addition to adding a jam nut, I had to stretch open one end of the turnbuckle so it would hook into the idler adjusting arm. The adjustment the first time took so long because of the broken brackets. It was quick and easy with the new brackets installed. Also, the response of...

I've posted on here before that I go through drive belts like mad. I finally went to an aramid wrapped 1/2"x 50" belt with great success as well as adding an inner spring with a modicum of success until this past month. Then it seems the belt would be tossed every two hours or so... and my lawn...

I went to a grade 5 bolt to prevent shearing. They are the ticket.

Put the blade back on the other side and brace it.

Whatever, if the valves aren't in the head, it's pretty damn flat. Call it what you will.

I've had the chrome flake off hard enough to cut my face. Glad I was wearing glasses. I don't use chrome on impacts anymore. Of course, I only use that cheap SnapOn stuff. :D

I have an SD 60 and found a bypass inside was leaking. I wrote about it here. It works awesome now.

Did it tear up the grass more than the turf tires?

So, for the end user: you have at least two methods of approaching this dilemma. The one that works for you, works for you. I'm wondering if I don't have that issue because invariably, some anti-seize gets on the bolt face. Rather than spinning the bolt when it hits an obstruction, the blade...

Le sigh... not really. Heat changes each and every alloy. Yes, the degree that it changes might differ, but heat will have an affect on any steel. On every steel. Especially carbon steels. The best way to relieve stress in most any steel is to heat it and let it cool. That's pretty universal...

They are aggressive looking.

Properly trained to use anti-seize? The water came out of my nose when I read this. That's too funny. Who did your training? Was it University or industry sponsored? Here's the only direction you need: a little dab'll do ya. Actually, it depends on the friction coefficient generated by the bond...

Cool!!! 6 point sockets are the best and hopefully it's NOT chrome. Black (impact) sockets are slippery enough, but that chrome is just silly slippery. You'll find that black (impact) sockets also have a much thicker wall, which helps them to retain their size integrity under stress.

Good for you! Not every manufacturer uses that term. When I grew up we often called them flat heads, but when we got corrected by the guys who had a different term we started referting to them as under head valves, for that is what they are. I've also heard them referred to as "valves in block".

Any metal to metal contact has the ability to create a tight bond as it rusts together. It doesn't take much rust to seize a bolt and it's the rust you don't see that causes the problem. When this happens, you must break the bond between the two metals to get the bolt free. Heating up the bolt...

Under head valves as opposed to over head valves. The former have lower compression ratios and ergo, less power.

I feel your pain, bro. If you're using a long breaker bar, the socket should be the same. The art is to get the load "balanced" so the socket stays on the fastener, and then bounce the crap out of that breaker bar. I have a six foot, 3/4" breaker bar that I have to use every now and then.The...

You've got me beat by "3 or 4 times a year". Yeah, anti-seize is good stuff. Either aluminum, lead or copper based, it does a superior job of preventing rust and/or galling.

I have to agree with this as well. I am adverse to plugging a tire, but this is a turf tire, so you're not going to have a blow out. Plugging car tires cause many separations, so avoid that. Patch or replace are the only two options for a highway tire.

You still have to remove and then reinstall the tire to the rim. That's the hard part, mate. Take it to a shop if it's too much for you.

There are no oil passages in a briggs and stratton engine that I know of. White or bluish white smoke is probably oil consumption. Is the crankcase overfilled? There are seals on the valves and they're easy to replace. Is this an UHV or OHV???

You don't need a torque wrench, though that's an awful tight bolt! Most fasteners with a 14mm head (9/16") will require about 18 Ft/lbs. Me? I use a Ryobi 1/2" impact wrench for my blades and as someone mentioned earlier, I use anti-seize on the bolts.

A common problem with Torx and Allen fasteners, is crud filling up the hole. Use a pick and make sure you can get the tool seated completely to the bottom of the fastener. A hand held impact driver can also help when fasteners become uncooperative.

I sharpen or replace my blades after just about every mow. Mind you, with almost 11 acres, that's every 8 to 9 hours of mowing. After you replace the blades, check your deck for being level. I use a 3" block of wood on a flat surface to accomplish this.

Two options then... Option #1) Fix the flat... over-inflate the tire a bit and put it in a tub of water to find the leak. Don't forget to mark it well with a crayon Deflate tire Break beads on both sides of the tire from the rim Making sure the opposite bead slides into the "drop down"...

If it's just a leak, then you just need to patch it or install a tube. What do you think is wrong with the tire?

Cheap too.

Looking at your picture, it would help if you washed the wheel first and then took a closeup on the valve. As best as I can tell, it looks like a tubeless tire valve. FWIW, I run slime in both my front tires. It works great. Many tire fillers melt the inside of the tire, but slime appears to...

Deflate the tire by removing the Schraeder valve core. Once all pressure is out, see if the valve is press fit into the rim or loose. Press fit and it's tubeless. Loose and it's a tube. You can put a tube into a tubeless tire.

I often use a visegrips to block the blade from turning.

Does not start or does not crank? If the starter won't spin the motor, there is no way for it to start. If it's not cranking, then disconnect the starter and turn that key... are you still blowing the fuse? If not, then the problem probably lies in the starter. Also remember that you have a a...

I have to admit to never seeing this happen. I guess my "snug" is good enough. That little Ryobi 1/2" impact does a sweet job.

Easier, yes. Better? I guess that depends on the guy doing the work. I don't have any powered tire changers here, and I don't really need them. I worked for 15 years at Goodyear Tire and Rubber. Our pneumatic changers were great for 12" and bigger, but not the little stuff. That, we did by hand...

Every now and then, take the belt off (using the right side pulley is the easiest way for me). Now take a few moments and spin each pulley listening for noise and feeling if there are any unusual vibrations. push the pulley side to side to see if there is any undo play there as well. Removing...

Take it to a tire shop? It takes a lot less time for me to change a tire and/or insert a tube than to drive back and forth from a tire shop. That's not counting the time you have to wait for them to get to it. The secret is to make sure you get the bead into the drop zone of the rim. I do use...

I remove and install my blades with a Ryobi rechargeable 1/2" impact wrench. I love it. I also put a small dab of anti-seize on the bottom three threads of each bolt. Spent 30 years of my life as an auto-technician. You really don't need a torque wrench for this.