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yeah there is play there as well.. i havent taken it appart but i snugged up the loose bolts holding it down which helps.. i get the reason behind your suggestion and ill definately keep that in mind thanks :)

on my machine the 'top bushing' is the dash panel.. the bottom bushing does have a bit of slop yes.. the shaft itself also has a bit of wear where the bushing sits so even a new bushing wouldnt take out all the slop.. the rebuilt gear teeth arent what i would call a pretty affair so i think by...

well.. its all putback together.. it still skips.. so my options are either take it back appart.. and add more weld bead to the gear to try and make it pointy-er on the teeth.. find a used gear in good shape.. find a new gear .. or live with it as is ... i think i may re-attempt down the road...

nope, it could not really is AE i took the steering shaft appart, expecting a shaft.. and a splined gear that could be changed.. but it turns out.. this is all one piece.. weather its machined as such ( doubt it ) or pressed on.. regardless.. the gear is some sort of steel.. so i rolled a bead...

hey folks.. ive a columbia brandedlawn tractor model 13ae698g597 serial 2a082I30159 and the steering gear ( on the steer shaft) is fubared.. i cant seem to find anything anywheres it keep comign back as.. not listed.. on pretty much any small engine parts sites ive checked.. at this point.. id...

serial of the mower itself; 4024 16964 serial on the engine if this is what your asking; 1705 1958 36977

20355 model here, same symptoms, this is with a briggs 163cc engine.. dealer is of absolutely no help on this one.. i wonder if carb B&S 594058 would work out?? seems OP has the 190cc engine?? when i google B&S 594058 carb, it looks like theres a vent tube like the stow an go carbs? is this...

got a replacement belt and blades.. mine were toast!.. made a good difference :) that spring i mentionned wasnt there.. my bad.. it IS there.. next step.. adding a water spiggot thing on there to clean some of the muck :D

thats looks oddly farmiliar... thanks a bunch! :) the spring isnt there.. im assuming this is there to remove play in all the loosness and would help apply propper tension even on the longest setting to mow?

the only thing bolted over the pulleys are those little guards to prevent ou from touching the spinning pulleys from above.. when did the blade brakes get mandated? see.. this is what id like to prevent lol its a columbia brand MTD version.. engine is a briggs intek single cyl 16HP model...

mine doenst have the 2 tensionning springs.. im not the original owner.. so it isnt impossible they rusted away.. or just.. wernet put back on.. where would these be installed?? i do have the lever to select the desired deck height.. when you drop out of the highest setting ( belt slack) your...

i beleive it to be a 2002 based on the year options you provide.. that isnt the deck i have.. mine doesnt have any tensionner pulleys.. and no front anti-scalping wheels.. and im not even sure about the rear ones lol just a belt from the engine.. to the spindles... the bracktry that pivots...

its older than 2005.. i forget what year it is... but even the 2005 42in deck.. it isnt a match for the setup mine has.. soo... belt ID wont be much use to me.. and i cant go take a pic o the sticker.. the number i provided IS the same.. i have the serial 2a082i30159

hey folks.. been a while i know :P i got myself a lawn tractor Columbia 42in cut 16HP single cyl Briggs... and it needs a belt for the deck as well as both blades.. ive tried looking at the MTD site.. but couldnt confirm my model on the site?? so if anyone knows where i can look.. would be nice...

aha.. so thats the big secret lol ill look into that another time.. thanks for the info though :) i dont recall there being more info on the tag i got the model number-serial from.. but i could be mistaken.. ill double check that come weekend.. thanks :) im assuming this is usually something...

hey folks.. new to me lawn tractor.. columbia 16HP 42in.. no drive.. belt is there.. looks oil soaked to me.. it IS a hydro drive rear end unit.. which seems to have some seals leaking ( both rear wheels have traces of oil leaking from the axle seals) my plan.. check and adjust the hydro unit...

sooo.. long story short.. i need an engine for my mower.. (Yardmachine 21in fwd) has a 140cc powermore currently which lost compression ( cracked block possibly?) .. im just looking for something that runs... does the replacement engine need to have anything special for the drive to work?? im...

soo i was given an FS36 trimmer... im not sure why cuz the thing runs decently as long as you keep the choke somewheres in between run and choke.. so im assuming carb is dirty or fuel filter is filling up full of crud... is there anything i should be aware of before dabbling in this? ive never...

soo im wondering if its easy to meassure out if a longer than stock blade would fit... 21 to 22in.. i understand how blades are meassured (digonally) and by eyeballing it. there seems to be close to a half inch gap on both ends as is.. anybody ever do this?? i realize ill probably get shot...

soo we moved and the property.. though it CAN get mowed with a self propelled walk behind mower... ive been looking at lawn tractors.. not buying new.. but used ive managed to find a john deere 112 model.. 200bux is the firm asking price (canadian) which for an old mower seems about right...

soo.. im aware there are no provisions to change the preset RPM a particular engine runs at.. and no it isnt causing any problems.. but i was wondering if theres a way to get maybe 50-100rpm's more out of these things?? mostly just to up the forward pace of the mower itself any ideas??

hey folks.. figured id probably get a buncha cool tips to keep a new mower running like new for a good while.. so yeah.. we DO get non-winter months up here in Canada :P and we do need lawn mowers too :thumbsup: from the Gaspe region of the province of Quebec