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Thank you both.

As usual the necessary numbers are in the “most convenient” place to see/read. :) Model 204412 Type 0156E2 Thank you.

I have a customer’s Coleman Powermate 6250 generator with a B&S engine (pull start only). The carb needs to be replaced but I’m unable to verify the correct part number. I’ve tried looking on B&S website and jacks small engines and I’m not confident the carbs I’m finding are correct. The...

So here’s what I came up with... I knew attempting to thread the axle was going to be a pain, and even if I managed to get a die started and kept it square, the groove for the E ring was going to mess with the whole set up as it would eliminate 1-2 much needed threads. I would also need a low...

Just to conclude this thread... I didn’t find any problems with the crankshaft taper or key way - the new flywheel fit perfectly and I made sure the taper was completely dry before installing and torquing it. I did take a second look at the old flywheel and key and found the key actually did...

Yeah I figured it was toast... but then I tried to eat it, and even peanut butter didn't help the taste! ? I did some searching for machine shops in my area that might be able to repair it, but didn't have any luck due to either cost or down time, so I got a replacement flywheel and key ordered...

I had to remove the flywheel to replace the crankcase breather as the old one would “squawk” with the last few revolutions after key off. I didn’t figure that out until I was filling it with oil and my brain was going “Steady.... steady.... steady..... DUMP ALL THE OIL INTO THE FUNNEL AT...

But doing it right the second or even third time is so much more fun! :LOL: I’d just get the Kohler rebuild kit if you’re wanting all the bushings, bearings and other wear parts replaced and want them to be right. If it’s not a huge difference in cost, a replacement piston certainly won’t...

CARB = California Air Resources Board The difference is the CARB model meets emission standards for use in California. I can’t say for sure what makes the emissions control different but it probably has components that more rigidly control the air/fuel mixture.

I’d recommend replacing the cables for the battery and starter. If they’re original and they’ve gotten hot, their ability to conduct current has certainly been reduced.

You don’t necessarily have to wait until it acts up again - it depends on what’s actually going on. But testing for a short should only take a few minutes. Note: I say test light, but this will also work with a meter - just watch for battery voltage instead of the light turning on. 1)...

As others have pointed out, the solenoid must be receiving power with the key off to be engaging the starter - known as a short to voltage. If you understand how a basic relay works, the solenoid functions in the same way, so it must be getting power from somewhere in order to close the...

Try wiggling the key in/out, up/down, and side to side while it’s in the ignition switch but in the off or run position (engine off). Could be an intermittent connection/short in the switch.

So when I went to install the flywheel, I realized I didn’t have a good way of holding it for torquing. I’d already installed the drive and clutch pulleys so I didn’t want to rely on the bolt for those. I settled on a 2.5” bolt and my 24” pipe wrench - it worked pretty well. The wrench grips the...

I’m not saying this is the absolute reason for it, but I think it’s because many older carburetors utilized adjustment screws on the bottom of the bowls and would have to be secured with nuts. As technology and designs changed, the screws were replaced with bolts but the term didn’t change with...

It’s interesting to see that some people talk of these solenoids as if they operate on some kind of sorcery. All you have to do is turn the key on and listen/feel for the solenoid to click - that’s how you know if it’s working. In its fundamental operation, it’s no different than the starter...

I didn’t get the replacement yet - the pics in my first post were just random photos I googled to show the difference in design. I’m planning to order the Briggs replacement today. Thanks.

So just after posting that, I answered my own question. :D I was going to delete this thread. But after reading your responses (thanks, by the way), I realize that I didn’t state my concern/question very clearly. I was concerned about the area the solenoid occupies when mounted on the carb and...

Ok so during my tear down project this past winter (update to that thread coming soon), I've managed to misplace the fuel shutoff solenoid. And by misplace, I mean lose. I'm pretty sure those are synonymous, for me at least... :unsure: Anyway I've been looking for a replacement and I'm just...

I had no idea a deck washer port was even a thing (I had to Google it just to get a clue). Although I can make a few guesses as to why it’s not as good a thing as one would expect (water intrusion into the spindle bearings, for example), can you elaborate on why it shouldn’t be used?

I’m not too familiar with the zero turns but if the fuel gauge is where the trouble codes are displayed, maybe that’s what it means. I can’t say for sure this is the correct page for your mower but I did find this on JD’s website. Scroll down to find the code definitions...

Meant to share these as well. The first 2 are the adjuster bracket post-repair but pre-rattle can. All I did was bend the bracket back to its original shape, then used a cutting wheel to open up the seam (cutting a little deeper than the original crack) and MIG welded it. The next was a spur of...

Ok, so (finally) here’s the story with how diesel ended up in the tank. As this ball drag had been in the shop for about 2 years, and oftentimes would sit for a month or more between troubleshooting sessions, I would only keep a gallon or less gas in it and frequently drained it if the gas was...

Most of that will be spent adding a sweet stereo system. :sneaky:

Between bitterly cold temps and other life events, I had to put this on hold for a few weeks. But now the snow disappeared overnight and I better get back to reassembly. Everything’s going together nicely. I didn’t have time to paint the rust spots but there’s always next winter. The engine is...

Nope, not even a little. My experience with anti-seize compounds in automotive have taught me to only trust it in very specific situations. Most anti-seize is just grease that has some type of powdered lubricant mixed in with it. For contact areas that don’t need consistent lubrication -...

The arrow notes the position I’m considering using a thrust bearing. JD just used a washer - looks/feels like steel but maybe it’s softer and intended to be the wear point. And, bent or not, I’m replacing the spindles. This is the right side which was the worst of the 2. The left side had a...

Ok, somebody’s not trying hard enough to stop me from telling myself “while it’s apart I might as well do that too....”:unsure: Once I got it cleaned up, I just couldn’t help myself but pull the front axle and transmission. It was just too easy - I’d of had to remove the front axle pivot bolt...

First, I'm going to clear the air by offering Born2Mow an apology for my poor choice of words and actions. I wasn't actually mad or upset about anything. My "angry" response was a poor attempt at starting an argument for my own amusement, because I'm a bit twisted like that. I've always found...

:mad::mad::mad: You can’t tell me what to do!!!!!

-Exactly where in this thread did you read that I used the wrong oil? -As I stated in post #26, oil is not overfilled. -I’ll test the breather next chance I get.

Thanks. I didn’t end up having time to testing it today, so I’ll check it ASAP. Maybe I can convince my coworker to put his tongue on the breather tube. :D

I only put 4 oz in it with about 2.5 gallons fresh gas. Call it snake oil if you like - I’m not saying it’s the greatest product on the shelf, but I’ve found it’s useful in certain situations. Considering this engine has been basically sitting for nearly 2 years (with the exception of the few...

Finally got a new kill wire with diodes installed today - also replaced the insulated connector that mounts in the timing cover. The engine started without any problems every time and also shut down when the ignition switch was turned off (previously had to choke it to kill it). Because it’s...

:LOL::LOL::LOL: I was considering it. I’m confident a 4 banger would bolt on nicely with a few custom brackets. And by “custom” I mean a few pieces of angle iron and an arc welder. ? Reminds me of an episode of “Home Improvement” where Tim Allen mounted a turbine engine on a lawnmower to beat...

So I decided to give up on trying to remove the governor gear and oil pressure relief valve and got the case halves and heads into work to clean in the hot tank. I just made sure to blast them with compressed air and then give them a shot of penetrating oil afterwards. I was surprised to learn...

So I put my search engine skills to the test and finally figured out that wiring 2 CHT sensors (type K thermocouples) in parallel will work on one gauge, but for the most accurate measurement, it’s important that the circuit resistance for each thermocouple is the same, as well as the materials...

Needed clarification on this since I’ve narrowed down one of 2 ways I want to set up the temp gauge. The preferred option is the CHT sensor. Since the engine has 2 cylinder heads, do I have to have 2 separate gauges, or can I wire 2 sensors into one gauge? I realize that may only provide an...

I’m still working on tear down, but I would like to take the case halves, heads and shields to work and use the hot tank to clean them. I prefer to have them completely stripped down when using the hot tank, so I’ve got a couple questions: 1) How can the governor & gear be removed? I don’t see...

Ok, I get it - I retract my previous statement. It was based on observation only - I’m used to seeing a clear reduction in size.

So I got the engine removed from the mower and the case split tonight. The internals look pretty good - no signs of excessive contamination or damage to the bearing or gear surfaces. Once the case was split, it was pretty easy to see why the gasket failed - I don’t know if this engine has been...

“Yes, that!” -Lord Helmet, Commander of Spaceball 1 carbnclean - if you don’t know, the barrel of the carb is the primary air passage through the carb - more commonly known as the venturi. Technically speaking, however, a venturi should have a reduction in diameter and, in my experience anyway...

Thanks for clarifying that. I understood what the OP was trying to do, but like I said, I didn’t see where the purpose of the lip had been addressed. But I’m also not the most comprehensive reader, and sometimes, learning something new pushes something old out of my brain. You wouldn’t believe...

I see this thread is a few weeks old, but it doesn’t look like anyone answered the question about that lip being there. I don’t know for certain but it’s possible it’s there to keep from swapping the intake and exhaust valve springs. In automotive applications, it’s not uncommon for the intake...

We’ve installed a few of those cheapo carbs at work and so far haven’t had any trouble with them. But we only install them after attempting to clean them or if kits/parts aren’t available. For us, the cost of labor for our customers to disassemble and clean/rebuild vs. just replacing them is a...

And there it is - the source of the leak. I got the carburetor/intake and throttle linkage removed last night and found this near the #1 cylinder. For those that don’t know - you can almost always identify the source of leak (especially one this bad) by looking for the area that appears...

Thanks - that’s what I wanted to know. The only thing I could think of was to use 2 kill wires with the other end attached to toggle switches that would be grounded when closed. If it were mine, I’d just do it, but I’d better just keep it as is.

Yeah I doubt any kind of lubricant has been intentionally applied to these gears. The sector gear isn’t in too bad of shape but the column gear definitely needs replacement. In an effort to tighten the steering just for this past season, I removed the column gear and attempted to drill out...

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: ?? The language is a bit different but I totally understand what you mean. I live in the Midwest US but I have an uncle originally from the Brisbane area. Can’t say I’ve ever heard him use the term “bush dunny” before but now I’ll be listening more closely because that is...

Yes, I’ve already done that and determined the kill wire connecting the coils was the problem - that’s what my post the other day (#14) was about. What I’m trying to determine now is if there are any other options for wiring the kill circuit besides the diodes.