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You will likely still see the original cross hatch in the engine and they probably won't be any scores at all but if you see a few vertical ones as long as there's not five or six around the bore and as long as they're just fairly small and you can't really catch your fingernail in them too much...

You've covered a couple of things and it is usually fuel but here's the best diagnostic procedure I have found. When tomorrow comes in with a no start condition, the first thing you should do is physically look at the safety bail engine stop cable to make sure it is actually pulling when you...

Most of the ones that were going to have the major failure have already self-destructed and are out of circulation that's probably why you haven't seen them. These things kind of go in cycles. It also has to do with the region they're in which affects people's mowing habits and the season. I...

When you say it runs okay or fine with two fingers over the carburetor hole, does it rev up and go to normal full speed of around 3,400 RPMs or do you have to keep the RPMs much lower even with your fingers to get it to run? If it will go up to its normal operating speed above 32 to 3400 when...

This is what I first thought of and recommended in my first post, I didn't read all of the entries.. You should be able to order from eBay or Amazon and if they say the brand name is Briggs & Stratton and they show a picture of the package then hopefully it will be a brand name OEM when it comes...

I don't know why this would really be a concern or it could be prevented by making sure you buy the Briggs & Stratton brand part number that comes back to that engine. I wouldn't buy an aftermarket push rod for these. When they come out of a sealed Briggs & Stratton package with the correct part...

I always clean up the heads and they block service very well with a scraper and some Scotch Brite pad sometimes and then I always tighten in the Briggs recommended tightening order in two or three steps and I always use an accurate inch pound torque wrench and tighten to the current Briggs &...

I'm just glad you got it fixed. I have certainly seen Stihl ignition coils that had a timing issue. In fact there was a TSB or something on this a number of years ago. They would run but they were hard to start and they certainly wouldn't run well with stuttering and stammering and what felt...

This isn't a guessing game game show. If you've already fixed it and know what the problem was then tell the whole story up front. Many of us don't have time or enjoy the carrot game. We come here to help people fix problems they can't figure out or two tell them what they're doing wrong or what...

I have a feeling we don't have all the information or if we would have been there as a fly in the wall watching we would have spotted something that we would have been concerned about or said you shouldn't do. Sure, sometimes weird things happen without any good reason but when you've worked on...

I haven't read every post in this thread but I can tell you that it is highly, highly, highly and I mean again highly unlikely for a valve to drop on one of these engines unless somebody has been monkeying around in the valve cover and with stuff they shouldn't be messing with. I saw in a...

That's what happens when they run to fast. Grenaded governor. NEVER adjust a governor with engine running or try to adjust or increase speed by loosening and moving gov position. ALWAYS do static governor adjustment ( throttle plate all the way as far open as it gets and gov shaft all the way...

You're right. The beam types are easy to keep calibrated and are the most likely to be and stay accurate. I used to use them to check and calibrate the clickers. You don't have to unload the adjustment each time and you can drop them and not worry about them being off of the needle is on zero...

Sure there is. We blast these cheaply made, underpowered, short run time crappy battery mowers and more and more people who try them have buyer's remorse and decide they want a gas mower. THIS is what many people want to happen. They don't want battery to "be the future". People will do lots of...

Yes, I've done it before on the tailgate of a customer's pickup truck in their driveway and from the time we rolled the lawn mower out of his garage, took the engine off, popped the bottom sump off, cleaned everything out, cleaned off all the old gasket stuck to both sides, replace the camshaft...

The order for the diagnosis got all messed up here. Throwing Parts at it like replacing the fuel pump thinking it's going to fix the problem hardly ever does so you should never replace a part until you're absolutely certain or really close to certain that is bad. Should have done more research...

Glad that worked for you but I refuse to deal with equipment manufacturers because normally it's just a waste of time. Even if the companies do technically have the information -somewhere- the likelihood of speaking to a person who can find that information is very small. So, in my experience...

I'm not fact-checking anything!! It's not our responsibility. This is why I make all my suggestions with certain keywords that let me off the hook. Saying things like "depending on the mounting design, you may be able to...." Allows me to make a suggestion and reference what I have done many...

Deleting that and not post any further comments or help would make you the one that can dish it out but can't take it. You have given a lot of great information on this forum but we are not required to conduct ourselves the way you want us to or by whatever standards you want to have. It was...

Absolutely! I just wrote another big one about this because it brushed me the wrong way too. It is not your responsibility to research or even bother considering what model number it is if you don't know exactly how that engine looks off the top of your head before you give advice or recommend...

What he should have said was IF there's room to drill through and put a nut on top. Lol This would have eliminated the problem of him being wrong. -I wish- there weren't so many people on social media and in forums that are just chomping at the bit to pull the "GOTCHA" to tell someone...

Because we don't put an overpriced plug into an engine that is not giving us any higher quality for that price. In fact it gives us extra aggravation due to the non standard size. I refuse to use them - just because I can.

I've been using dcpr6e ngk stock number 3481 since these engines came out.

Yes but I wouldn't have a Kohler plug in my engine even if it is an XT series engine because they use the wrong size hex head! Lol That was an absolute arrogant, jerk move on their end.

Use whichever one you like. Frankly, heat range makes little to no difference on these engines. You will notice that Honda takes the same 140 and 160 engine and some come with a BPR6Es and others come with a bpr5es which is one heat range hotter. I think I looked up one time and found that one...

Some of those things you say can be true in certain situations but it feels like a lot of Doom and gloom. Lol Also, there is no need for a "really good" fuel stabilizer like startron which is more expensive. Plain old traditional red Sta-bil is what I've been using commercially for almost 14...

You were told wrong. Lol While it may have been someone's personal opinion that it was a waste of time to use sta-bil in ethanol fuel or their point was you'd be better off to get ethanol free fuel and I don't know whether or not they're wanting you to put sta-bil in that or not but the fact is...

Put the comp tester back into the toolbox. It's just not needed. I have fixed 1000s of mower engines and have never screwed one into one. Well, not at the first time when I realized they are not like cars. The only tester you need is your finger If it blows it out nicely, it has enough...

First of all, messing with the governor and adjusting its static adjustment is one of the LAST things you ever do to one of these small engines if it's having a running problem, surging or hunting. Pretty much all of these surging issues are not the governor but rather the carburetor is slightly...

New doesn't mean right... Especially with eBay and even more so amazon carbs. I NEVER recommend replacing carbs as opposed to cleaning it the old ones or fixing them because sometimes the new ones don't run correctly and you are almost always installing a worse quality carb than you are taking...

If it goes back to running but surging and hunting for a proper speed, take you a shot cloth or a microfiber towel and fold it into fourths and lay it for it restricts the intake hole under the air filter. This should reaching up the mixture a little bit or you can also try moving your lever to...

That is a very odd situation if it's that inconsistent. I have never seen one of these that wants the camshaft lobe slipped, that would ever run anywhere near properly or even continue to spend enough to call it running after this happened. It's pretty much like when one gets a bent push rod or...

True but if you adjust the end so it doesn't have so much slack before it actually starts to open the choke and if you lubricate the bottom near the spring area and make sure it's not rubbing against on either side as it moves, they become quite consistent with their opening and closing.

We call that the compression release bump or the ACR bump. The camshaft has an automatic compression release built on to it very close to the intake lifter lobe. At low RPMs it kicks a small little finger out which protrudes out past the base circle of the camshaft in the spot where it's...

I also forgot to mention that we need to get some universal terminology consistent here. The title of your thread says Briggs & Stratton engine won't turn over but it does seem that the engine is turning over and spitting just fine through all of the posts. People often use different terms and...

I assumed from your earlier comment where you were wondering if someone sold you the wrong tension spring, that you understood basically how the system worked. You could be on to something with the spring as it is a very small spring and very weak. As soon as you start the engine, it needs to...

There's a whole lot of jumping around and grasping it straws here throughout the thread. A good diagnostic procedure is almost more important than knowing how to actually do the work to fix one. Lol I think I read through all the highlights of what's been done but it all boils down to you have...

I've seen Toro ZTRs with steering wheels.

I didn't either.... Until I did! I had an aftermarket fall in 17 hrs. No lobes were worn but they were slipping and spinning on the splines that are supposed to hold them in place. Lousy quality metal and likely assembly too. I used a number of aftermarket with no issues but that was several...

That's the style I like. Or put a 90° on the end and put the plug facing the ground so you can just hold a milk jug right up to it and drain your oil.

I'm not sure which part of my statement you're disagreeing with but it's still quite factual. Now, my comment that they are low performance little turds has some opinionated flair to it but they are in fact low performance compared to most any of those motorcycle engines were talking about...

I have never, ever notice any running difference in any two-stroke equipment due to what type of oil was being used. I have noticed a different color of the gas and often more or less smoke coming out the exhaust and sometimes a different smell of the exhaust but never have they run any...

But NEVER at the ratios they recommend. Amsel isn't the first to do this. There was some "super high tech fully synthetic magic oil" one of the lawn mower shops was selling back in the mid 80s for my dad bought some commercial equipment that said no matter what your equipment called for, use...

I too was having to clean out the carburetor bowl on Tecumseh engines back in the seventies and early '80s way before any of the fuel had 10% ethanol in it. You would typically find a big what I call grease bubble floating around but more than likely a water and moisture bubble. Once you dumped...

Keep telling yourself that but trust me it's not the case on most engines and probably not yours either. Have you really used a degree wheel or a timing light with a degree dial to check your total advance? Sure, a lot of us did this on our old hot rods and muscle cars but these engines are not...

Well, first of all carb problems or fuel related issues are never going to cause you to need a new engine! They are simply aggravating. Secondly, I haven't used 1 oz of fuel that didn't have 10% ethanol in it for probably the past 22 years. This is not because I wanted to but because all the...

Yes. iso-heet is the isopropyl one.

Someone who was talking about the computer software and models etc, which is way overkill for this and I doubt it helped them solve their problem at all, was talking about the faster you spin the blade the better. This is not actually true. In the arena we're dealing with it probably is because...

I would have no faith in 1 oz per gallon fixing anything in fact I would guarantee and bet money on that not doing anything. This is why I say I've used it at much greater concentrations because I have gotten results from this. If you found out later it was not fuel related but rather ignition...

All the gas that I have used for well over 15 years is 10% ethanol and I also believe the gas has gotten worse and worse over the years as far as quality BUT I have seen no difference in the lifespan of rubber fuel lines. Now, the clear vinyl ones or the tinted ones etc yellow faster and get...