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Gear pullers have fine threads because they allow for a more precise and gradual application of force when pulling parts, ensuring a controlled extraction without damaging the component or the surrounding area, thanks to the smaller pitch of the threads which enables finer adjustments during...

Fine thread, same as gear pullers etc

Could also pick up a thread chaser kit

Most hardware stores sell taps individually, cheaper than kit & better quality.

As stated, adjust the valves first, then if not fixed continue with next step/question. FYI,Those are not the model numbers.

If your carb has the idle jet with limiter, the procedure is to bring idle screw down to 1,300 rpm (holding against set screw) adjust turn clockwise till slows, then turn counter clockwise till slows then set back to midpoint. Place limiter cap with half moon segment down. It is a base fuel idle...

Starting fluid too explosive & can blow head gasket, use a non chlorinated Brake Clean. (Brakleen)

Read most of posts, you said you adjusted valves & think you were talking about top dead center on another mentioning valves. Valves are adjusted cold (70*) with piston heading down about 1/4" past TDC on the power stroke.

Yes, and you can check the idler pulleys for noise.

You are removing deck, change the bearings without removing spindles the from deck. If you put on a bench it's an easy job.

The fronts in same hole, the rears in same hole, 1/2" height difference from front to rear & you expect the front & rear wheels to be in the "same" hole!!? What happened to common sense? Me going to turbo my rider! Zoom........ Note: "Just off the ground" is the key!!

If you have gasket, use one. Sealant valve covers have "bumps so sealer can work. Use torque wrench to tighten flywheel, cheap one from Amazon in fine for home owner. / make sure crankshaft is not bent if you hit something big & it stopped engine. Tooluxe 03703L Dual Drive Beam Style Torque...

the pulley grooves could be grabbing the belt / getting a factory belt or known good aftermarket recommended / new spindles move smoothly / recommend new idler pulleys / recheck all nuts & bolts tight /

if the $5 doesn't work, get a good one! or use a new spark plug grounded to engine & crank over. or throw parts at it - NOT,

how did you verify spark, light or gap tester. light style can fool you.

broken drive belt, did you pull wheel & lose axle key, trans axle needs rebuild.

Didn't listen the first time to check & watch valve movement. Hummmm... common sense??

See my question to you & Star Tech post & picture, does that help

Yes, hoping to answer 'Grounded', (Again, the mower runs. But I don't understand why, and I would very much like to know. Thanks.)

ohm reading contact point, magneto side, to ground at block / ohm reading contact point, ground side, to ground at block / all with bale pulled / different or same?

take an ohm reading of each, some coils have (the kill wire) have a low ohm reading, where kill side (ground) is 0 (ish)

My thought was piston on intake stroke sucking oil by intake valve stem seal. Not the static testing.

do both intake valves have the same 'deposit' on the stem?

if belts, are they on the correct side of guide?

worn valve guide/seal sucking oil / should of removed valves with head off, usually can do by hand pushing spring down /

Well, I'm out as for my understanding of 'terminology'. I'm going now to finish my rocket ship power pusher thinger. :rolleyes: :)

Tomatoes, tamotos, red things, page 23 looks clear to me!? Drag link / front rod, again! Deck wheel, page 12, adjust to just off the ground after deck level completed. Then says put in same hole = miss print in manual, can't be in same hole & adjust just off ground in all cases.

When mulching only cut when grass is dry and no more than an inch at a time. This is the law of mulching and everyone is breaking the law! :eek::rolleyes::)

Stens doesn't find 539120806 belt, no cross.

Try new spark plug & then coil.

picture under seat & front head on.

Pull the rear fender assembly off, a little work but will save time & have good access. Or drain gas & flip up on back end. 135C452E000 (1995) Looked up as guess by year, looks like no plate.

Pull the rear fender assembly off, a little work but will save time & have good access. Or drain gas & flip up on back end.

Pull the plate & take pictures, we can all be on the same page, Thanks.

At least it hopefully narrows the playing field! ? Picture of unit would maybe, perhaps help.

95 = year/ 06 = month / 02 = day / 5B plant & assembly line

Variable Speed Pulley Fits MTD White 717-0800 717-0800A / Flip Manufacturing Through plate in front of seat. Good idea to change both belts.

Sometimes if belt starts to fray pieces of belt can get stuck stopping movement. If taking apart there is a fiber/plastic washer on top. NLA but ebay had some in the past. Or match up at hardware store. Had one where roller bearing started to seize. Ebay has pulley assembly if needed, factory NLA.

What fuel line?? Carb mounted on tank!? Per previous posts.

I put mine on it's side, bar up, to keep oil in the tank.

cap vent plugged

In USA, From Gardner, my cost, Rebuilt a few with good luck. Pay attention to that pin!! Good Luck...

Never match blades, look up by model #s, Oh Ya, your smart, own own company. I'm not going to You! Even I know to look up parts as my customers match blades - big mistake!!

Most on this site looking for help, won't have 'that' feel, price of tester cheaper (usually) than throwing parts at machine. 50 - 60 lbs good considering ACR and under 500rpm. He can always loan to friends & neighbors that may need help. Getting over 500rpm can be done with drill, but, you have...

Had a generator with low compression, started ok, but bogged down with load applied. Compression test told story, no need to go any further, like Oh NO must be carburetor. So yes, there is need for basic testing, especially since I have a 'not so smart thumb pressure gauge'...

Buy a compression tester and a leak down tester. These are necessary first steps to diagnosis engine running issues. Everything is just guessing, seem to be getting off course?? Valve adjustment cold (70 degree ish) compression, warmed up engine. Good luck!!

If I'm seeing this correctly, the engine is shaking and the mower frame is not. Have you tightened the engine to frame bolts?

If I'm seeing this correctly, the engine is shaking and the mower frame is not. Have you tightened the engine to frame bolts?

New belt, should be able to find part number on it, at least rule that out if factory belt. Like said, pulley grooves could be worn grabbing belt.

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