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On a Craftsman, the brake must be set to both bypass the seat switch and to start the engine. The engine charging circuit is mostly useless for long-term use, and you should have a battery maintainer on the battery, to ensure that it's charged when needed, and to extend the life of the battery...

Definitely not the 50A setting which is supposedly for starting, although I've never seen one be able to start anything but a lawnmower or motorcycle sized engine. Most chargers will have an automatic charging circuit, unless it's very old and very basic. So whether you do a 10A fast charge...

I gave up on the Lawn & Garden lead acid batteries many years ago, and have a pile of worthless ones laying in a pile on the farm, some of which only lasted about a year. They will show voltage, but quickly deteriorate to have no cranking amps left. I've tried regenerating them, adding mag...

For my old Craftsman LT1000 I've used on the farm for 20 yrs, I scored some old worn auto brake pads with a cutoff wheel on a grinder to the size of the OEM "pads" on the mower, used a chisel to remove the cut pad piece from the metal backing, then glued them on with JB Weld. They have worked...

1. Buy a meter, which will be cheaper than replacing parts without knowing what's bad 2. Put the neg meter probe, starting first test under load on the battery negative [with + probe on the battery +], and then test at the starter ground to ensure that you have a good ground for the starter...

Another option that I've done many times, get some line of the larger diameter to route to where it terminates onto the smaller barb fitting. Use a short piece of the smaller diameter tubing [a piece of the old bad one] on the barb fitting and slide the larger dia tubing over the smaller...

My mower is only for the grass and weeds, since there is no lawn on the farm. I tried everything... tubes, slime... but finally, the only thing that worked was lugged tires on the mower. Haven't had a problem with either of those rear tires since, and that's been probably 15 yrs ago. Now the...

To eliminate all extraneous wiring and issues, use a good voltmeter and check the cranking voltage right at the starter, and then moving both the positive and negative probes to various spots to find where you lose starting voltage. If you have full voltage at the starter [with your - probe on...

Everything in life is a tradeoff, particularly anything associated with equipment, because all engineering is a compromise of one thing for something more desirable. Sure, the purest fuel you can get will work better, but enough to warrant the extra cost and bother? That's up to you. I've got...