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Sorry for being gone for so long but I ended up finding out what the issue was. So, I had the mower in my shed and was wondering why the linkages would not fit. I have seen online the parts diagram of the intake and noticed a small detail that made me wonder about the intake. The control panel...

I have seen a John Deere 636M that has the same 603cc engine (not the same model) and it does not have a rod holder but it still concerns me that the rod is not being held by anything. I will try this and see if it fits, Im also going to order a new governor arm and linkages to make sure those...

And thats what I was thinking it could be but since its okay when I manually hold the governor to reach low idle speeds, it sounds fine. I have already adjusted the governor but I will try again and see it that does anything. Another thing I notice is that the hole where the throttle rod goes...

I have a 2011 John Deere WG32A that as 120-140 hours on it. My dad does landscaping full time and I help part -time since I work full time somewhere else. He " decommissioned" this mower due to it having issues and a local Deere dealership not knowing how to fix it. Well, here I am wanting to...

I got a chance to test mower with both plug in and out of mower. In mower, it can’t get passed the compression stroke unless I physically move it out of that stroke, then it has no issue turning over aside from turning over slowly and once you let the ground jumper off ground and back on...

I haven’t been able to test the mower with plug out today cause of rain and have no cover to do the tests.

So what do you think the issue could be ? New starter ?

Just with plug in. After work today I will try with plug out. Engine did turn over but when it was as compression stroke, the starter would not be able to turn the engine. I had to turn the engine manually to get it out of compression stroke and once I jumped the starter again, it would turn...

so I got my test results:I did check valve clearance and from what the manual for the mower states, lash should be around .004-.006 so I went with .005 and checked. Both valves had some drag to them but other than that, they were not tight nor loose. I started to jump the mower with the battery...

would using the mower battery not in mower and having the jumper cables connected to it work as well or does it have to be a car battery? Would that just defeat the purpose of using the mower battery ?

Okay, so first connect car battery positive to positive starter post. Then connect car battery negative to engine hook Correct ?

Starter solenoid is underneath the seat. Starter has only the hot wire to starter post. Should still work ?

This was all with the spark plug in. I did it before with it out and it spun over but turn over speed stayed the same. Engine also sounds as if something was dragging it from going any faster, which I do have traction belt removed so that eliminates any restrictions. This was before I tore into...

Spoke too soon. Engine won’t turn over now, stops at compression and whines from the starter solenoid. I did get a scent of something and checked the starter. The smell is coming right from it and is hot to the touch.

so today, I managed to get some time to work on the mower. I first cleaned the ground going to the frame of the mower with sanding paper and installed cable. Installed battery since I had it off just in case the battery wouldn’t drain and checked for battery voltage at starter wire on starter. I...

I will try this. And that was my exact thoughts on the starter since it was not being used to turn the flywheel, which would be the load. I haven’t checked if battery voltage is present at starter yet but will for sure check. I will update when I have done all listed above. Thanks!

But would that cause the engine to turn over slowly? With spark plug out, it will turn over but seems as though it is being held from spinning faster. At this point, I already removed the idler pulley below engine that drives the traction belt just to see if something was seized and is pulling...

So even with starter being bench tested, it could be bad? I didnt hook up a battery to starter, just used a jump box so I have no idea if that was the right way to do that test. And you are correct, battery is under seat, along with solenoid. Starter was the only thing I could think of when they...

I have a Craftsman T210 with the Kohler 5400 series engine (PS-KS540-3011) 18HP 541CC. It belongs to my cousin and their original issue is that it would not turn over. First, I found that current battery had only 1v, was told they replaced the battery, and it was a new one but could've not had a...

Sorry for the confusion and I saw this post and had the same issues going on so that is the reason I posted on this post. The question I have is the same as the original post, I have too much compression and after adjusting valves, I still have the same result. The battery I used from my zero...

Saw this post due to my current situation and hope to find some answers. I have a cousin whose craftsman T210 started having starting issues. I brought it home and started to diagnose it. Everything pointed to bad ACR but the main thing that made me think of that was when you'd turn over the...