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This is how an amateur learns from his mistakes. There was no saving the Rod journal. What’s not shown in the picture is on the other side of the journal is a huge chunk that was taken out during the blow out.

Alright, Here is a super exciting update. I think I have the problem figured out. When I ordered a new crank shaft, I went part number for part number. But here is the problem. The flywheel key inserts are in different locations. The crank shaft on the right is the bad one. Gotta be the wrong...

Ok, Just want to update. I purchased a leak down tester last night and ran 100 PSI at TDC (compression stroke) The results were about a 15-18% leak. Hissing could be heard coming from the breather tube which was connected to the intake tube as well as hissing could be heard coming from the...

Key has been replaced and is still intact

It is a brand new cam shaft. The spring is working and the cam shaft is lined up correctly with the dot. I’ve went through every suggestion on here to set the valve lash and still get the same results. Here is a video of what it is doing…..

I purchased it by part number. Still can’t get it to run. I purchased the cam shaft new by part number. Still can’t get it to run. I’ve tried everything. Code is 100916ZD. I’m going to send you an email.

Or just TDC on the compression stroke right before the intake valve opens

So to clarify, am I finding TDC on both the exhaust valve and intake valve and as I find the tdc, I adjust each correct?

Know of any youtube videos showing this process?

Fuel is almost brand new, Just got it a few weeks ago. I am beginning to wonder if something else got damaged when I ran this thing without oil (should've checked before starting.) When the dry engine stopped running, it completely snapped the arm rod in pieces, took a huge part out of the sump...

Thanks for the tip. Does this sound like valve issue to you? With the back firing and white smoke?

I will throw the old $0.02 worth in. welp, I guess I have some positive news. I now have a large back fire from the exhaust with a ton of white smoke when I have the throttle lever on the “choke” position. Other than that still won’t start. Spark gap in the service manual says .30 which is what...

Checked it already, it’s fine

Do you know if the cam shaft style would make a difference? My old one is rounded at the end while the new one is slotted. From what I understand, the slotted one is also used for an engine with an oil pump. Old one

Valves are set to spec per the service manual.

Had the engine on its side after rebuilding all component parts. Didn’t realize all the oil leaked out and didn’t check the oil. 🤦‍♂️ Still no luck on it starting. Just put a new spark plug in and still no start. I am running out of ideas here. The last thing I can think of is taking a look at...

Thanks. I will check the flywheel key tonight and see if that fixes the issue

Ok update on this… I took the whole thing apart and found that I had the cam shaft timing not lined up correctly….. smh…. Got everything back together, tried to adjust the valves again and now I have back firing out of the exhaust when I have the throttle cable at low speed. At this point I’m...

Also, I confirmed that I do have spark. I also sprayed a little carb cleaner into the intake to see if it would start and no luck

I have compression now. I tightened the exhaust valve up a little more than specs… either my feeler gauge is wrong or some other reason. Now i have no start

Ok so oddly enough I tightened the valves a little more than the specs and now it’s turning over with no problem… but now I have no start…

Can you elaborate more or do you know of any YouTube videos that can explain it?

Help everyone…. Ok, this is going to be lengthy. I have completely rebuilt my Briggs and Stratton model 31C707-0026-G. It all started with a broken piston Rod arm. I figured while I was rebuilding and the engine was old I replaced multiple parts. (Cam shaft, cam shaft timing gear, tappet valves...