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I looked at the ECU reset instruction to refresh my memory and the only thing I did differently was instead of waiting 10 seconds, I would advise techs to wait 15 seconds. The issue I came across one time was, I was on the phone with a tech trying to help him do the reset and when I said to turn...

Yeah, you likely set those codes when you ran it with the O2 sensor disconnected. Check the manual for the ECU reset procedure to clear those codes. I don't remember that procedure off the top of my head or I'd tell you how to do it. It's pretty simple but needs to be precise. Then run it again...

Before you take the top cover off again, (and I should have thought of this before), take the rocker cover off and remove the spark plug. Turn the engine over by hand and watch the valve movement. See if the valves are opening and closing when they're supposed to. Also see if the intake valve is...

Sounds like ignition and fuel pressure are fine. It could simply be a bad O2 sensor. If you could get codes from the ECU that could help. And apologies if I missed it, but when the issue first started and you felt it was running rich, did you ever notice any black smoke. If so, how do the...

It was in your previous post that you ran the engine. I was trying to ask if you actually tried using the equipment? Make it do work so the engine has to carry a load.

Can you post a pic from the top showing both cams?

Have you tried actually using the equipment with the O2 sensor disconnected? My guess is it will lack power as I believe it might actually be running lean. To make a MIL, you'll need a test light with an incandescent bulb, not an LED. Clip it to the positive terminal of the battery and probe...

Just FYI. Make sure the washer is on the side with the compression release lever. Some early engines had a washer on both sides until the folks on the assembly line were re-educated to only put a washer on the side with the compression release. The washer is only there to keep the compression...

Do you see any black smoke when you feel it's running rich? Lean exhaust also stinks and burns eyes but there wouldn't be any black smoke. And like ILENGINE mentioned. Try running it with the O2 sensor disconnected. If it runs better don't automatically think you need a new O2 sensor. You might...

There is an intake timing mark and an exhaust timing mark on each cam gear. Could you have possibly lined up the marks on the wrong sides?

J8C was the standard Tecumseh spark plug for years and years which is basically the same as the J17LM or the resistor equivalent, RJ17LM. I've also used the J19LM and RJ19LM on Tecumseh engines with no issues.

What's going with it that makes you think it's out of time?

If you’re needing a solenoid shift starter, it’s part number is 25 098 11-S. That number is probably superseded now but that will be a good starting place.

You'll have to take the starter off more than likely. If the shaft is bent, it will be noticeable. If it's easier to take off the blower housing, you might be able to see it that way too.

Something else to check for after making sure of your connections, is to check for a bent starter shaft. A bent shaft will cause the drive gear to move in and out in relation to the flywheel ring gear. If the gear happens to stop when the bend is causing the gear to be closer to the flywheel, it...

Another vote for Toro. And if you want battery powered, Toro makes those too. I'm going to assume you were exaggerating to make a point that you wanted something powerful, but if you find something in your budget, that will mow knee high damp grass on any morning including Saturday mornings...

The Courage twin cylinder engine was a very good engine. The Courage single cylinder, not so much. It's not too uncommon to have carb issues when fuel is left to get old and stale. The DSAI ignition was something that rarely had any issues and it was the same with the DSAM ignition. ASAM...

Like IL mentioned, your engine has solid lifters. Only the Command engines had hydraulic lifters. If memory serves me correctly, the SV twin clearance is .004-.006 on both intake and exhaust.

180 lbs of compression is perfect and what that engine would have had brand new. We like to see a minimum of 150 but 140 doesn't necessarily mean you have a major problem. What does the spark plug look like on the 140 side? Does it look a lot different than the 180 side spark plug? Like was...

With everything plugged is as it would normally be, do you get any spark when cranking the engine over? I doubt there is anything wrong with the DSAM. I think you have a supply voltage issue. With the DSAM unplugged you're measuring voltage that isn't being asked to do any work. When you plug...

Yes. It will fit just fine. Kohler used to in some cases warranty that swap. You just have to make sure you wire it correctly.

Yeah, same wire harness part number so it should plug right in with no modifications. Exhaust will fit fine too.

I've added some info to my previous post if you want to look at it again.

Do you have the original spec number of the engine? Should be 69XXX. MTD normally used a pretty basic spec engine so finding a replacement shouldn't be too hard. I have an engine comparison spreadsheet I can check if you can post the original engine spec number. The spreadsheet lets me compare...

Kohler only used Nikasil on the early CV and CH 25 engines. The issue you have was typically caused by dirt ingestion. The Nikasil was supposed to stand up better to dirt ingestion but unfortunately it didn't. Kohler changed to cast iron liners on the 25 hp just like the rest of the Command...

Something I got in the habit of doing before I install an oil filter is to remove the gasket and wipe out the channel the gasket goes in to remove any possible oil that could be there. Like ILENGINE mentioned, Kohler and others had an issue with oil getting in that channel where the gasket goes...

Yeah, when I first heard about it back in October I wondered if it would have happened if Herb were still alive. I guess it's hard to say. Glad it doesn't affect me anymore, but I do know it has some folks in distribution concerned. It probably won't mean much to the dealer base.

What makes you think the primer isn't working?

For what it's worth. The 1.8 hours is just for replacing the head gaskets. If you have to R&R the engine, add 1.5 hours so 3.3 total in that case. If it's on a Toro Dingo, Kohler will pay the 1.8 for the head gasket replacements plus 8 hours R&R of the engine. If you have a difficult...

Glad you got it.

Agreed. Looks like there might be a minor oil leak somewhere.

Clean your switch up a bit and see if any of the terminals are labeled. If they are labeled the same as the pic I attached the Oregon 33-389 or Kohler 48 099 01-S are two that would be the same. The Oregon one is available on Amazon for around 20 bucks. Rivets also posted the part number for the...

Yep, and not to mention solid state breakerless.

Yeah I should have attached it differently. It cut off a bit of the picture in the thumbnail but if you click on it to open it, it should become a much better picture.

Any chance you could post a picture of the terminal side of your current key switch. There are several switches you could make work but it could be nice to know what type of terminals your switch has and how each terminal is labeled. An Oregon switch part # 33-389 could be made to work but not...

And just to throw in what might be considered useless info, most of the old guys I know call a magneto a magneto, a coil a coil and the newfangled thing you’re speaking of an ignition module. It is an item made up of different components all combined into a modular unit. And when mounted on an...

If it looks like the one in the picture, I would mount it so fuel flows from the small end toward the large end.

Run an unswitched hot wire directly to the + side of the coil. If the engine starts and runs fine, you know all of the ignition components are fine. Now just find out why you aren't getting power to the coil while cranking.

No need to check. Sometimes when points and condenser get replace a person might connect the condenser to the + side of the ignition coil and that doesn't work. You probably have no voltage to the coil while cranking. Just a thought but has the ignition switch ever been changed? If so and it...

If the answer to IL's question is yes, is the black wire from the switch the only thing connected to the + terminal on the coil?

Yeah Fiebig. I put on some of those meetings. We would rotate.

We've probably seen each other.

Where did you typically attend Kohler updates? Effingham?

I wouldn't think the carb would have anything to do with it. Having the choke on reduces the amount of air being drawn in and in theory should reduce compression if anything. Reduced compression should actually make the engine turn over easier. Did I read correctly that the engine did turn...

Yeah, just start with trying to crank the engine with the plug wires removed from the spark plugs and see if that helps anything. If it doesn't then there is no need to mess with air gap.

Kohler had an ignition timing issue with some of the big block engines causing them to hang up when cranking. It was a rare enough issue that Kohler never tried to find a fix for it. That left folks in the field to try and come up with a solution. Leave the spark plugs in but remove the spark...

Without the engine spec number I can't be 100% sure, but this is most likely the OEM Tecumseh filter FWIW.

kohlerengines.com With Kohler it's the serial number. They don't call it code.

You have a + and - sign on the coil. What is connected to the + side of the coil?

Sorry it took a while to get this info but with the holiday they just re-opened today.