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Like trimmer line can't as well.

Trace the white back and run a separate new wire to the switch S terminal that supplies the 12v solenoid. If that works you're looking at two relays that must operate to send power on to the solenoid.

A replacement head that uses cable or wire rope. That'll keep you busy trimming and not changing line all the time.

Those cheap modules can be used to convert an old points and condenser saw to electronic trigger so don't see why they wouldn't work the same as a name brand. I've converted a few old McCollough and they start easier and run just as well.

Ground?

I think it's more "disturbing the Force"......electric mowers have that effect.

Full throttle?

You are now, officially, a parts cannon. 🤔

Pretty simple....cut out the back of the frame hole.

If this machine has any time at all on it, and a lot of starts, the starter commutator get glazed and the brushes don't make adequate contact. All you'll get is a sight click from the relay or the stronger one from solenoid. Easy fix. Remove and disassemble starter. 600 grit paper to clean the...

If it cranks when jumped, what made you think it was the solenoid? It has to work to actuate the Bendix.

How old is the mower? Lots of hours? If that's the case might want to drop the starter and check the commutator. Neighbors mower did just what you describe so pulled it for them and cleaned the heavily varnished commutator. It's an easy fix if you have the tools and skills. The one thing I would...

Mine on a 54" Lightning has lasted from 2008. They are units originally designed for gates and the big 10' sat dishes, ball and screw actuators. Be wary of the travel at the very end of the stroke as sometimes the unit will not retract because the ball has reached the end of the screw and...

Just for those reading this, the washer is a Belleville type that is cup shaped. The concave side goes toward the shaft the convex side toward the bolt head. If put on upside down the washer is just along for the ride and secures nothing.

Looked at a parts breakout.....is there perhaps an opportunity to safety wire the tube to the body of the pump? There is the nice lip on the tube but can't tell if there is an opening above to slip the wire thru. I'd avoid any kind of chemical restraint such as epoxy, unknown how long that would...

Mostly incorrect . Everything made after the early 80s has switched to materials that are ethanol agnostic as it doesn't do anything to them. Pre Buna-N orings were the common failure and after the switch to Buna-N no more problems. Same holds true with diaphragms.

Most likely the impulse port for the fuel pump diaphram in the carb body.

Hence the need to exactly specify which engine gets the same carb spec as the OEM carb. If you cannot adjust them they are pre jetted for a specific displacement engine.

Almost forgot....the old spark testers were just neon bulbs in a non conductive pen except for a cupped aluminum cap that fit over the plug wire. If the bulb lit up, spark. Also useful to check electric fences to see if they're on or not.

An inexpensive IR thermal gun is worth its weight when diagnosing some problems. Objective measurement beats subjective measurements every time. 😏 Well...that's just not true. As an aviator of injected engines, you may have the capability to run rich of peak EGT or lean of peak EGT......rich...

Seems to me you're out voted by "broad brush" real world experiences. What you may think is a Yamaha may not actually be a Yamaha but one in name only.

A Kawasaki is a better bet.

On my 731 the plug leads are carbon track type....meaning they have a carbon impregnated string carrying the electricity to the plug. I cut the rubber boot off and found that the cap had not been fully crimped to the lead and did not contact the carbon string. Replaced both caps with these...

How do you know it "overheats"?

Sounds like "what he can do" will resolve itself......

Obsessing over straightness and angle is unnecessary. Whatever the angle, irregardless of "straight", when the steel blade hits the grass blade the steel wins. Every time. A dull blade tears, a sharp one cuts.....for awhile. Be more concerned about balance.

Loosen is not removed....mud daubers love, for some reason, to build mud capsules in the muffler. Make sure that's not the case. Otherwise, remove carb, disassemble, inspect and blow all passages out with at least 30 psi or higher. What you describe can be either fuel starvation or blockage. I...

https://www.amazon.com/SIMPERAC-Carburetor-RY252CS-RY253SS-RY251PH/dp/B0BWF5CMX2

F4040 Tygon yellow fuel line is rated for gasoline.....not all yellow, or for that matter, any color, lines are gasoline rated.

Got mud daubers? Check the exhaust can. A possibility....not the possibility.

And to follow up on this advice....make sure the inlet in the tank is not sucking up against the tank and the tank is free of debris. I usually install sintered brass fuel clunks in the tanks. A lot of surface area to filter thru and damn near impossible to keep from working even if there is...

Problem is.....the answers you'll get here may be way wrong. Try something like this : https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-403-charging-lead-acid#:~:text=With%20the%20CCCV%20method%2C%20lead,and%20%5B3%5D%20float%20charge There are other pages for different chemistries.

A typical charging rate for a lead-acid battery used in a lawnmower is 1 to 3 amps. Manufacturers recommend a charge C-rate of 0.3C, but some research suggests lead-acid batteries can be charged faster, up to 1.5C, as long as the current is managed towards full charge. A 12-volt lawnmower...

StarTech is right. Run it in then run it out several times with blowing out the hole between attempts. It will go to its final depth but don't force it. Slow and easy.

That's a self tapper all right.

There's a large range of metric threads. Industrial standards define 1st, 2nd and even 3rd choice diameters in order to rationalise and reduce necessary stocks as far as reasonably possible. M7 is a 2nd choice size, so not common. That would be .2755 in. 35/128". You sure it takes an over 1/4"...

A spring scale attached to the idler and a stationary point on the deck with zero as the full slack, zero tension point and then tighten adjustment to 30lb. My guess is it's not hooked to the belt but to the tensioner idler pulley. Otherwise if there is a specification for the belt it would be...

Hmmmmmmm.......both from Kawasaki.

"Yes, some Baldwin filters are made in the USA, specifically in Nebraska. Baldwin has manufacturing facilities in the USA, Mexico, and other countries. While they have expanded their global presence, Baldwin's manufacturing base in Kearney, Nebraska remains a key part of their operations."...

Bet the "original" is made in China too. Show us the lab reports that tells us this is true. 🤔

Bet the "original" is made in China too.

Bagger. Mulcher. 🤔🤫

Anyone that suggests lapping the old valves to the old seats should be ignored. All you'll do is have shiny valve faces and seats. Seats are interference fit....there is no "popping in" or out to be had. If you had a welder and were proficient you could run a bead around the inside of the seat...

Want to help your clutch live longer and reduce belt whipping? I have one of these on a Bad Boy Lightning 54".....makes a great deal of difference in the blade spin up. When you hit your blade switch you are dumping full amperage to the clutch and really loading the engine. Doing that the clutch...

"Latest Spark Plug Brand Rankings According to the latest global automotive spark plug rankings, NGK spark plugs are still firmly at the top of the list, and their excellent ignition performance and excellent durability have been unanimously praised by car owners. Followed closely by Champion...

NGK is not the cause of "ripping the cord out of your hand" . As regards plug choice you are looking to be in the same heat range as the OEM plug as well as the obvious physical characteristics. No more, no less. If a two stroke is fouling plugs it's gas/oil ratio, type of oil, Explain the...

NGK is not the cause of "ripping the cord out of your hand" . As regards plug choice you are looking to be in the same heat range as the OEM plug as well as the obvious physical characteristics. No more, no less. If a two stroke is fouling plugs it's gas/oil ratio, type of oil, plug heat range...

They can be but not for the reason most people would think. Here's my experience with mine. Kawasaki coils use carbon track plug wires, simply a string that is carbon dust impregnated in the sheath. My engine would run rough at times and then one day one cylinder just stopped firing. Coil...