Search results

It's not the cost of fuses that worries me. IF I can get the 12V to stay on long enough to find the wire, what do I do with the 12V wire ? Ground it ?

Star Tech, if I knew more about the gounding system, I would continue myself and not bother you any further. I'm at a loss not knowing and would like to know how to test for the 12V without blowing fuses. I do appreciate your input.

I was trying to figure it out myself but I still don't understand how the grounding system works. I toned the Pink wire just to make sure it was going to the parking brake. The tone wouldn't run on the grounded wire until I released the brake. I assumed a wire past that switch had it grounded. I...

When I got to the part about grounding the red wire at the seat switch is when I noticed I had 2 red wires. That part was most confusing of all. How does that switch work if disconnected ? And is it necessary after disconnecting module ? I disconnected the interlock module turned key ON, blew...

Star Tech, I got my seat switch in and started my rewiring of the Scag. I read thoroughly and when I got to the seat switch part, I found I have 2 RED wires and a BROWN wire going to the switch. One red goes to hour meter and one red goes to the PTO switch. I had 12V on one of those red wires...

I'm sorry to seem too dense to comprehend your reply but, "means you do not (x) to be applying (x) to the ignition coil kill terminal", sounds like a word or two are missing in this statement.

Star Tech, One major question on my mind (yes, it's confusing), when you say "don't do this unless the circuit is converted to a grounding", what exactly determines that the circuit is grounding ? I'm assuming it's the rewiring of the PTO switch. ?? I just want to have this part straight in my...

I have ordered the seat switch with bracket. I won't expect it within a week (hopefully sooner) but I most probably will be back here with questions and to let you know how it works out. Thank you for your input, Star Tech.

Thank you for those instructions. I will study the wiring to familiarize myself thoroughly before snipping. BTW, the PO also removed the seat switch and connected the wires together. I'll have to replace the switch and plug.

I have verified that all safety switches are good. Looking at the diagram for a 5 pole relay, it shows that the terminal the green/black wire attached to is (or should be) grounded. I have the relay grounded. All this is very confusing to me but I would like to get the safety features working.

Thanks for your reply. I have this diagram. Not the switch make/break table. All seems to be wired correctly with Green wire from switch to relay HOT when key to start. I don't understand how it gets to the Green/White (stripe) wire going to the engine harness. If I ground Green/Black (stripe)...

This is 2002 Tiger Cub STC 48A 20CV s# 7640064. I had to dig for the wiring diagrams I have. The manual diagram isn't much help.

Hey Folks, I'm back to working on my Tiger Cub I rebuilt last summer. I posted questions in September about rewiring because of PO rigged the wired and did away with all safety switches. I'm still trying to figure out how the safeties all work through the harness. Today's question is ...does...

Thanks for your replies. I considered riveting myself but I noticed it wasn't common rivets.

Yes, I saw this parts diagram ($90.+) and found replacement pads ($28.+) online. I just haven't figured out how new pads would attach without re-riveting them on.

I have a 2018 Tiger Cat 2 with brake pads worn down. I've pulled the wheel and looked. I see no way to replace just the pads. They seem to be riveted on. Do you have to replace calipers to get new pads ?

Thanks, Bertsmobile, I agree with you about the diagram in the manual. After hours of toning wires out and trying to figure out what the diagram says, all I accomplished was a slight headache. I'm retired from a scheduled job so I have plenty time and will hang with it.

That's what I was considering doing since I've already spent more rebuilding this mower than it's worth. Even the harness to engine pigtail was cut out. Is there a way to test the interconnect module to tell if it is good ?

I've rebuilt a 2002 Scag Tiger Cub that I had originally bought for parts. I have it to 'like new' condition with lots of sweat involved. The only issue I have now is a butchered wiring harness that I had wired just to get the engine to run. I've toned the harness following the wiring diagram...

Thanks for your replies. I lucked out. The wire was also pulled back in the connector and wasn't making contact. All is back working !

I did buy the bolt from the local Scag dealer ($5. just for the bolt). Threads were OK but it broke one of the wires when it slid down the shaft. I spliced the wires back, installed clutch and it doesn't lock in. I'll pull the clutch and start testing again tomorrow. Hopefully, I can find...

Thanks for all the advice. I have a new bolt and washers.

Thanks for the positive reply. I'm headed out to pick up another bolt and hope for the best !

My friend asked me to help figure out his Scag quit mowing. After looking at the clutch, it was obvious. The bolt holding the clutch on the crankshaft was gone and clutch had slid down off the key. We looked all over the yard, no bolt found. What are the chances it just backed out ? Or stripped...

The owner said go ahead and buy the ECM, she's paying, so I did. Installed the new ECM, started the mower fine but, key switch would not kill engine. ?? I cleaned all the safety switch connectors and PTO switch connector. I has worked without issues since. I can't say now if it was the ECM...

I haven't found any $5 parts on a JD mower ;)

Thanks for your input. I found a wiring diagram and studying it, I'm leaning toward the ECM being my culprit.

I looked all over the mower and didn't find anything that looked like a time delay. Would the ECM act like the time delay when you turn the key off ?

Thanks for the tip on disconnecting kill wire. I mowed for about 30 min. when it quit the first time and fired back up when I placed spark detector in line. I left it on and went mowing, it died 5 min. later. It would not start back up. I verified no spark again and disconnected kill wire. It...

Thanks for the tip on disconnecting kill wire. I mowed for about 30 min. when it quit the first time and fired back up when I placed spark detector in line. I left it on and went mowing, it died 5 min. later. It would not start back up. I verified no spark again and disconnected kill wire. It...

I will try that today and let you know. Thanks.

I wasn't familiar with this model until this week. It belongs to an elderly neighbor and it does have a delay after you switch the key to OFF.

Thanks for your reply. I have a spark tester and had it on the mower with me. It's definitely losing spark. When it cools down, maybe 5-10 min., it will fire up and run again for maybe 5 minites and shut down again. Fuel pump is working the entire time. Not a fuel problem. It quits like you...

I have been pulling my hair out over this 'overheating' (?) John Deere. It has a Kawasaki 600V-as21 engine and will shut down usually after 15-30 min. mowing. My first thought was coils. I bought new Kawi coils. same result. I removed anti-backfire solenoid. same result. I replaced spark plugs...

I don't find a crankcase reed valve other than in the breather.

Thanks, hlw49, that's something (reeds) I wasn't aware of.

Thanks, I have a manual and rebuilt engine as close as possible to the specs. While I was lapping valves, I noticed slight warp in head. I placed sandpaper on glass plate and took some of the warping out. Could that warp or pitting in valve seat be my culprit ?

Did you ever resolve your safety interlock issue ? I also have an '02 Tiger Cub with a bad module. I have bypa$$ed it for now.

I bought this '02 Scag for parts then, unfortunately, decided to restore it. It had a replacement engine (CV23) on it with breather separator missing from valve cover. Being it was sitting out in the weather, PO stated it was full of water. I tore down the engine and surprised there was no...

Thanks to all who tried to help. I can only hope the engine stays together until I get it broke in. I need to sell it for the parts money, at least, whistling and all ...

Thanks for that ! I'm really tired of chasing ghosts. I've practically rebuilt this engine twice looking for this strange noise. The engine seems fine other than, who wants to buy an engine that sounds like that ?

Yes, it is solid on the end. I'll check it out again tomorrow. Thank you for your help. I can't think anymore for the frustration. I have the engine 'uncovered' but no noise with spark plugs out. I only hear it after it starts.

I changed out oil pump and pressure relief spring/ball. Didn't help noise or oil pressure.

I have a new problem with oil pressure - 66 PSI at idle after engine warms up. Started up at 72 PSI. Could this noise still be coming from the oil pump ?

I did look and the oil pump is the only thing in that area. I've never heard an oil pump sound like that ?? I haven't tested oil pressure. Yet !

I purchased a stethoscope today and definitely heard noise better. The loudest, most distinct I heard it was on the back side of the block, opposite from cylinders. I don't feel any slack in the PTO or flywheel shafts nor oil leaks. Before I break into this engine again, what would be the most...

I've pulled the heads off already checking head gasket for leaks. While listening with the hose, it sounded like metal tapping in time with exterior noise. ?? valve tappet and cam, maybe ?

I reset air gap to .012 (.002 more) and it didn't seem to help. New carb hasn't been adjusted.

I tried the fuel hose. I could hear a pinging on cyl #2 that I don't hear on cyl #1. I went around the engine and can't hear anything else. I pulled rocker covers off and reset valves after it cooled down. They were bad out of spec on cyl#2.