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It does have a vent that is attached to the ROPS bar. I can't recall ever have a bad carb that worked perfectly for 10 minutes at a time before. Hence my question. Thanks for the reply. Will check tomorrow and report back.

Working on a Kubota ZTR with a Kohler CV682 3024. Engine starts right up and runs good for about 5-10 minutes. Then will shudder and die. Let sit for about 10 minutes, same exact thing. Good compression on both cyls. Plugs weren't bad but I changed anyway (they had 100 hours on them). I verified...

My guess is that he won't work on them because after market parts are not readily available. That means he has to go to a dealer, buy the part at retail price, mark it up, then sell it to you. Also, every Stihl saw Ive seen is hard to start if not used nearly every day. Echo offer saws in all...

I checked for continuity of the light brown wire from the brake switch to the seat switch. It was good. If I defeat the brake switch, the mower works perfectly. Runs, drives, PTO works as designed (on in seat, kills engine if no one in seat). 🤯 I'm not arguing, just frustrated. .

Unfortunately the seat switch did not fix it. I tried a new switch, even tried a new brake switch, even tho I bench tested ok. I'm stumped.

I looked at the wiring schematic about a hundred times trying to see what else was in that series. I just could not see that that switch is effectively a double switch. Everyone I every replaced either worked or didn't. First time I've had one work for the PTO but not for releasing the brake (at...

Thank you.

Thanks, but you're not understanding what I am saying. I read pg 15. If the operator is not present the seat switch should kill the engine when turning on the PTO. That happens. It also kills the engine when getting out of the seat without the park brake set. The issue is that with the seat...

Let me rephrase that. Shouldn't a bad seat switch kill the engine as soon as the PTO is engaged b/c it thinks the seat is empty?

I understand. But shouldn't a bad seat switch also kill the engine when the electric PTO is engaged if the seat is empty?

Good day all! I am currently working on a Husqvarna YTH24V48 with Briggs Intek 724cc 24.0 hp. Question is about the park brake switch. With brake pedal depressed it starts and runs perfectly. Blades engage with PTO. Issue is that as soon as brake is released, the engine dies. I ruled out seat...

Also be careful of "FOR Champion" or "For XYZ" when looking at search results. I searched "Champion RC12YC" and ended up getting some crap that said "similar to RC12YC".

I would make two observations, #1 the intervals at which you change is as important, if not more that the brand of filter. Don't buy a "great quality" filter and think you can go 500 hours between changes. And #2 ONLY use oil specifically labeled for air cooled engines. Too often I hear people...

A good strong blower is your best friend for cleaning deck after each use.

Thanks, I will further dig into the choke. Maybe it's not closing 100% (tho I'm sure I checked it pretty well). I'm pretty sure the oil pressure switch does kill spark but my issue is definitely fuel / air. Starts immediately with starting fluid. TA

The other thing is it starts with the choke (required) for a day or so. It's only after 3-4 that it acts up.

I agree, the choke was absolutely my first thought but I've verified that the butterfly is closed all the way. I've removed the cable and held it closed by hand, same result.

2014 Hustler w/ FX691V. After replacing the longblock and reusing the fuel system, charging, exhaust etc. I developed an issue with cold starts. I didn't realize it immediately b/c I fully expected to use starting fluid on the first start. When using the mower daily the issue dues not appear...

I found it. It was corrosion on the female spade connector on the kill wire and terminal. As soon as I tried to separate the two I knew it was the problem. Some light sanding and a dab of dielectric grease and it's like new. Thanks for the help!

As I was thinking after I posted, I realized that I had not tried a direct kill wire. I was too busy scratching my head wondering if there was such a thing as a coil that won't die! I appreciate the reply. I'll go out to the shop and try that in just a bit then update. Thanks!

BR800 blower, runs perfectly but can not shut off with kill switch. I used ohm meter to verify both the yellow and black wires in the handle have continuity. I also cleaned the contact point on the kill wire inside the handle. I suspected bad ground b/c before cleaning the contact point there...

I too learned the hard way that otherwise identical looking switches may be pinned differently. Now when I replace one, I flip them over and verify all the pin soder points are aligned the same. This is just a guess but the switch (and wiring diagram posted) for the Honda powered machine might...

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! So just so I understand, is the original stator / reg for 15 amp and the new one is 20 amp?

I agree. I was hoping for someone to say something like "no problem, use the new one". The old one tests good with the ohm meter. I would just rather use all new parts since it's already apart and the old one is so rusty. I know I'll kick myself if I have to take the whole thing apart again. Thanks!

I got it.

I did. Forum says the file is too large. Can't seem to make them small enough.

I'm working on a Kohler Kt735-3051 on a 2016 Hustler Raptor 52". Previous owner said the engine "wasn't getting fire", so he took the top off of the engine and left it outside under a tarp. The stator and coils are completely rusted so I ordered new ones from Amazon. The original stator has 2...

I'm certainly not making excuses for the repair shop (especially if they are selling FX1000 for $4K) but, as I'm sure you know, low compression isn't always as simple as a blown head gasket. Their "techs" are getting paid pretty well and anything beyond a very minor repair runs the risk of...

I describing the fuel pump, I thought there were only 2 kinds out there. The vacuum operated one on the side of the engine cover and EFI. I guess I should have called it "vacuum" rather than "mechanical"?

Bert, thanks for the detailed method of sharing how to chase the fuel issue it seems to be having. I thought that I had been detailed enough in describing the issue. The FR691V is mounted on a Husqvarna Z254f and is NA. I was unaware that that were EFI versions of that engine out there.

Thanks anyway! Appreciate it.

I don't believe turning on the key will make a mechanical fuel pump make the fuel flow without the engine running.

FR691 with 155 hours. Starts and runs perfectly for about 15 mins then starts missing really badly. New plugs, fuel and air filter. Adding a little choke helps it smooth out but not 100%. Steering arms in and out seems to make no difference, neither does turning off PTO, so I'm thinking fuel...

This is obviously just a guess but, it may not have been anything you did. I just did an autopsy on a SV840 that had locked up for no apparent reason. The gear that drives the oil pump and the Woodruff key were laying in the oil sump. All the internals look fine except the crankshaft is stuck in...

Yeah, I repaired it and used a zip tie to keep it up off the edge of the baffle. I looked at the rest of the harness for possible trouble spots then moved and zip tied anything that looked like it could rub. Thanks again.

You absolutely NAILED IT! The carb solenoid wire was rubbing on the metal baffle. I couldn't see it until I moved the wire as it was pristine on top but worn through an the bottom that was resting on the edge if the baffle. Thanks for the help! Hugh

I'm thinking stator. On the longblock swap it was pretty straightforward. Moved stator, flywheel, coils, fuel delivery, muffler, etc from one block to the other. Does the fact that it runs fine for 30 minutes or so give you a clue as to the fault? Thanks for the help!

Hello all, I'm working on an old (2009) Bad Boy Pro 27 with a Kohler 27 hp. I did a longblock swap using a used longblock and the original accessories including charging system etc. Mower preformed perfectly for several hours then began blowing the main fuse. I traced the issue back to the...

Without a receipt, it will just be store credit!🤣

I would suggest checking battery voltage with a meter with PTO off and as you pull it on. Also, repeat with the deck belt off. See if the battery is weak and drops or the PTO is going bad OR if the load from the deck is a problem (ie seized spindle/ idler).

Very first thing that I did.

Thanks, I have verified the key is not sheared. I have tried starting fluid BUT I didn't think to open the choke after setting it to start for the initial test. I have good spark on both plugs. I will start over today.

I understand and I don't get mad at anyone trying to help. I was trying to give you as much info as possible as to what I have done. I have been using in-line spark testers with plugs installed. I will re-check everything mentioned. Thanks again.

Ok, thanks. I have set magneto gaps to .010". Re: the carb shut-off, I've tried starting fluid directlyinto the intake manifold. No difference. That's what lead me away from fuel issue. It has good compression turning by hand, I had ruled out valve adjustment solely b/c it doesn't even try to...

Thanks for the info. Now, as weird as this sounds, I have good spark with the kill wire removed (only 1 each) BUT now I also have spark with it attached. On both coils. And still no start. Additional info: my buddy says he replaced head gaskets sometime last summer and it ran fine but he says...