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Well, I think I'm on the right path... The base where the engine sits is actually flexing. I made a support for the front part of the engine, just below the valve adjustment cover and the improvement was significant... The deck vibration is now becoming acceptable... But if the shaft is not...

No company returned positive information, always a “maybe” or “could be” and I will not pay for transportation and service that way. I returned the purchased part and worked on the old one, achieving a good result... better than the new one, but only in the oscillation of the pulleys, as I have...

As consumers we are in a bad spot... B&S USA referred me to technical assistance. B&S Brasil, paid me a lot of attention, but couldn't say anything about the specification and couldn't even test another one from stock, as here they only sell it for the 17.5Hp engine, which according to them is...

This appears not to be made of two halves but rather hot formed and then welded to the shaft I believe in a standard form and welded by machine... even so, there is human interference in the operation, where the greatest probability of error lies... perhaps in the rush to produce.

Well... I ended up buying a new pulley... but... it also shows the same symptom, less so, but it does. See that the lathe bench even vibrates at high speed (700RPM). I'm asking B&S to find out what the vibration specification is to condemn the new pulley.

It's already in my plans to remove and evaluate, I haven't done this yet because the tractor stayed in place... I had to return with the empty trailer for another activity. I even have to take measurements, as some sellers are private importers and have never seen a lawnmower tractor in...

I wasn't successful... some, like Jacks, report other models or B&S brands.

An internet seller says this pulley is the same for Murray and Husqvarna LT 131 and LT 151. Do you confirm this?

Just like I didn't understand!?!?

Well, unable to turn the engine shaft very slowly, I tried to set the lowest possible speed by moving the carburetor and the problem is now evident, leaving no doubt (for me) that this is the root cause of the deck oscillation.

I agree that the cutting speed is always maximum, but I use it a little lower for sites with only leaves, which don't need high RPM. As I said before, it could be that I am very demanding and if the low is resolved, the high will be very smooth. Without the weight of the cutting set, the...

I think I'm working with cold iron... everything I've been doing seems to have little or no effect on the vibration item... it's possible there are several causes and I'm eliminating each one, but the main one remains. I don't have anything to turn the engine slowly, so I removed the spark plug...

Evolution: I placed an angle bracket with several holes that represent different angles of the steel cable to the axis of the tensioner pulley support... in relation to the initially chosen point, the vibration improved a lot in holes 2 and 3, getting very little at maximum rotation, but at low...

No answer??? I believe it has to do with the adjustment of the belt tension, because from this hole the brakes start releasing the spindles and the belt engages in the grooves of the pulleys, transmitting the movement of the engine. One more question: The pulley engagement lever describes an...

Does anyone know how to inform the function of this coincident drilling? https://youtube.com/shorts/FKgPIvgYJqE?feature=share

Makes alot of sense... I tried to eliminate the gaps by putting shims around the bushing and adding washers. all made of aluminum foil (from a beer can), the vibration has decreased significantly, but it's not gone and I don't know if the vibration that remained can be considered normal, as I...

Well, back to the topic... I did a re-evaluation of the balance, looking for something more dynamic, re-evaluating the axles for looseness or bending (everything perfect), I clamped the assembly on a piece of iron vertically and... The pulley has little or no influence...a small gap in the...

And now the closing with a golden key, using the last word in direction alignment.

As I said yesterday, today I straightened a draglink in the heat and it was symmetrical in relation to the other. A negative point was that I cut the welded screws wrong (short) and had to weld others, which were aesthetically even better than the previous ones. Another negative point is that...

My vise is small and my bench is very weak... but I didn't use heat to straighten it out... it was on the arm itself and a good iron tube. This piece is common iron, stamped in two halves and soldered, not very hard. I redone a weld that broke and fixed the other one that was already opening...

I managed to get it right without too much trouble... all I had to do was use the larger vise from a friend's auto shop.

The bushings are reasonably good, but there is a gap of +- 2mm in the bushings in relation to #2 in the longitudinal direction... grinding the smaller diameter side of one of the bushings it disappears, but there are strange wear marks for normal use. Bertsmobile1 said that " The bushes # 67...

I already did that a few days ago... there was a lot of looseness and I corrected it a little, but I think it's acceptable due to the age of the machine, but now I'm going to remove and analyze the geometry of the tubes... or they welded crooked (not likely) or it was a heavy blow. Review the...

I don't know if I understood what you wrote correctly, but the industry strives to do things to hold you to them and I don't like that... often there's no way.

The balance movement is normal... there is a gap that I also consider normal... the problem is that stopped on the plane I can observe that the vertical axes of the wheels point slightly in opposite directions (front/rear), which leaves the wheels looking drunk. I like mechanics, I have many...

Another stage almost completed... But there's still a problem... it looks like this piece (#2) is crooked. I'll take it out tomorrow and check it out...

Previously I had shown that I managed to hit the up/down movement of the deck, but I didn't show how. I tried first not to shoot the water, and it turned out really well... here's the solution, simple and cheap.

It arrived! A few minutes, while filming the deck. Mas agora só semana que vem...

I bought these spherical terminals to modify the drag links to be adjustable and two more smaller ones to see if I can improve the #188... I'm waiting for it to arrive...

continuing...

I don't know the past beyond 2 years, when I bought it, and I noticed a very annoying gap, which I decided to eliminate now... and with materials that I have available or recycled... zero gap, zero cost... for 50 years ahead.

And speaking of bushings... I'm finishing replacing the steering shaft's upper bushing with a bearing...

I'm in contact with the representative here, in fact the indication is the M250, code MYI-12-12. Depending on the price, I already order...

That's what I thought about the thickness... This is the material used in the bushings for the front wheels... at least OREGON claims.

Good information and with measurements...👍 But in terms of material... the manufacturer Igus reports dry working and dirt resistant... looks good as it would eliminate the need for grease. Since Murray, Husqvarna, etc... originally use grease, it looks like the original stuff is not as high...

Does anyone know what material the bushing #74 (Bearing Col Strg.) is made of? I found a world manufacturer of bushings and the advertisement seems to be a good thing... do you know? https://www.igus.com/info/plain-plastic-bearings

I made a cape to put on the end, but it won't last long, because this piece (#188) has three movements and should be like #202, with pivots.

Looking for a better angle to shoot, I noticed that the #64 axle (pedal) could come out without too much trouble by removing 4 bolts from the rack and 2 from the bottom bushing of the steering wheel shaft... the only remaining slack will go away! ... but I will have to remove spring #161...

I managed to shoot in a good position... You can see the ear with the oblong hole, the brake rod and the clutch belt. In reality, the start of the brake will depend on adjusting the distance between the disc and the brake pads, which is regulated (in my case) by the central screw and on the...

Every country has its problems... we are not technologically advanced, but our agribusiness is excellent and the current government is killing the goose that lays the golden eggs... do you see where this is going? With a democratic narrative that is better for the population, they take upon...

This is a big dogfight... around here Ford closed, GM is extinguishing a shift for 10 months and VW is paralyzing some production lines. The politic is not good, legal uncertainty and currency stability, is and will still push away big companies. In US the competitiveness is great and the one...

What a salad! All to reduce costs and maximize profit... Just a gap that I couldn't remove...junction between #188 and #64, because #64 has welds and I preferred not to change it, but it turned out much better than before. By the way there is another mistake in the diagram...#188 goes first in...

Your comment about the various owners of Murray is interesting... it seems that Murray is an unwanted child, an ugly duckling that nobody wants... So it could be that my deck (Husqvarna) originally came with the machine... and I'm blaming the previous owners. Well, my assessment of my system...

My system is... No threaded rod, bushing... I think it was made during the period when employees didn't know who was going to be the boss...kkk... The adjustment can only be made by the central screw of the brake assembly. And don't worry... as I said before, any opinion is welcome.

Yes Sr. ...🤦‍♂️ Motor Model - 31P777 Type - 0602 B1 Code - 100209ZD Did I forget something? PS.: I just remember that my mower is frankenstein's cousin.

Rod #29...#26 is a spring... But I believe that in fact there is something different that is not showing up in the diagram... I'll clear that doubt tomorrow.

I only identify an adjustment in the approximation of the pads to the disc. And it makes sense to start the brake only after disconnecting the transmission (by belt) from the gearbox. On the pedal shaft, there is an ear with an oblong hole, which allows the brake to be activated some time...

When removing the spark plug, how was it? Wet or dry? If it is wet, the engine is drunk with excess fuel > check the tightness of the stuck inlet valve/float or the spark may not be coming out > check the spark plug wire is broken or leaking spark to ground, coil open or shorted, switch on /off...

As the pedal is unique, the logic is that at the beginning of the pedal stroke, the clutch is activated/disabled and then the brake. Separately everything works, but there is a jump when leaving and a certain delay in starting the brake, seeming that the functions are overlapping. When...

StarTech Your measurements are correct (3/4 x 1-3/8) and there are no common bearings with such measurements... not even in the metric world. A possible solution is bearing 6003 (17 x 35 x 10mm), but you have to rough 2.05mm on the axle, place a shim on the side of the wheel, change the "C"...