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Now that I have installed a new pump at my well, I am trying to restore the old Goulds Jet Pump, 1 HP. It appeared to be "frozen" so I took it apart and it had must rust inside it. is there a way to remove the rust from both the armature (stator??) and rotor surfaces? Sand paper? What grit? It...

Wow, too much- I unscrewed the old tank from the old pump, tank is still good, almost new. Added a little pressure to 20 lbs (stated on sticker), screwed it onto the top of the pump thread, turned on the power, and pump runs, then stops, and stays off! Tested pump by turning on the hose faucet...

Thanks, Tom. I peeked around a bit more before I started messing with the speings like you said, and i decided to take apart the 2 nipples on the to/from the narrow pressure black tube that feeds the PS. They both were clogged! Geez, no wonder. I ran a fine steel wire through both of them, and...

If it is a bad PS can I install a new one I have , the range for which is 30-50 psi? I cant tell from the manual Tom posted what psi's the pump is rated for. All I can find is on page 2, showing "discharge pressure " of 40 psi. Would my 30-50 work?

I got it running!!!!!! Yahoooo! Finally. On 240V. I dont know what I did differently, but it works. I primed it with a garden hose, and it pumps great. BUT, it doesnt shut off unless I cut the power to it. Now that I (we) got this far, what do I do to the pressure switch to naike it shut off? I...

Wow, so helpful, Tom. Thanks. I should study that! I will let yous know what happens, if I can glean anything from that manual........

I have 240V at the terminals at the PS. Yes, the black hex shaped switch is at 240V. But no V at the PS terminals. So wierd. Gotta be a bad PS, right? BUT, just now, I tried something- I disconnected the 2 wire leads coming from the back of the pump from the PS, and connected them directly to...

Model is Craftsman, 390-2518. SN is not readable anymore. Never requested/demanded that one here must be an electrician. Help offered though is most appreciated, whatever your capabilities are. If you cant help, then thats OK. I was able to post a pic. Not sure if that helps, people. I have no...

got it, here:

Crazy- I tried to upload just one picture of the back of the motor like Tom suggested and I get from this website "the uploaded file is too large for the server to process". Sheeeesh. Tom, When you say "120VAC settings", you mean the simple hex switch to switch back/forth from 120 and 240?

It just hit me- I was looking at the end/rear of the pump wiring and the green ground wire has no connection to anywhere. Could that be the problem? Should I connect a wire to that and ground it where the power source is at the pressure switch, together with the source ground?

So, 240V at the pump itself (bypassing the pressure switch) condemns the pressure switch???

OK, so if one just switches the selector it may require more work like rewiring? That may be my problem. I made no other wiring changes assuming the switch was all that needed to be done. I never knew. I should look at/study the diagram on the label. Feedback appreciated.

remember- in post #1, it ran on 120V before I connected it all up.......

Yes, it has a capacitor. It is a Craftsman, Model # 390.261B, the B may be an 8, hard to read. 3/4 HP. Can I run this on 120V? The switch can be switched to the 120V side. Then I use only one wire, and cap off the other? Think that would help? I dont care what V it runs on, I hardly use it...

This is insane- I just measured ohms and V and got continuity on all 4 contacts on the switch. ALSO, now, I am getting 240V on the 4 contacts!! So, I figured, let me take V on the 2 leads going INTO the motor itself, I opened up the back and touched the 2 hot leads at the motor itself and they...

Well, I got 240V at the 2 wires from the source (taken at the 2 "buttons" on the pressure switch), but not at the 2 other screws/contacts at the switch. But the contacts are "touching" meaning, the switch 4 contacts are touching the contact points on the switch . What is the mystery? Shouldn't...

People. Have a shallow well pump, Craftsman 3/4 HP. Tested it with 120v first to make sure it actually runs. Then connected it all up with pvc pipes, and electrical 240V. I switched the button to 240V internally first. I have voltage at the pressue switch but the pump will not even start. I...

Decided to take it to a local starter rebuild shop nearby, like shadetree said, one that I have used years ago. They glued it (cured overnight). Mower starts right up now! No more chasing ghosts. I mowed my overgrown lawn! Yahoo! Anyway, thanks so much people, for all your advice/support. What...

My Owners manual for the tecumseh is simply a large sheet, folded 4 ways, and contains no part #'s for any parts. The starter has 2 #'s underneath it- posted in post #54. I looked around but found no such #'s, even on the Tecumseh site.

Wow, more god info, I never knew. Thanks Bert . So, where you buy a new starter for my model Tecumseh? You guys must have good sources that the average DIY is not familiar with. I posted my model # starter above, if that would be useful. Post 54. After all this work, so many posts, so many days...

Yup, removed the commutator, and one magnet of the 4 is completely unglued. Think that was the cause? that cant be good. Can it be reglued? Epoxy, like JB Weld?

I get it now, Shade. Will try to take apart to inspect, worst case, I know of a starter repair shop nearby! Been there before years ago. Anyway, I will get back to you guys for an update when I get it fixed!

I have a Tecumseh OHV130 engine. Are all tecumseh OHV130 starter motors the same? There are 2 #'s stamped at the bottom of my starter- 36914 and 38026. It has 10 teeth. Cant find any of these code #'s on Amazon.

So, I will remove the starter, and maybe rebuild? Buy new? Think Amazon would sell my starter (Tecumseh)?

WOW!! That didnt take long!! Starter disconnected, and I get 12V at the far end of the solenoid!!! Also, 12V at the starter main wire! I also put my ear next to the starter and the squeal is coming from there, not the solenoid!!

OK, lets go for it- disconnecting the starter now.......

I have a one spade terminal solenoid. Hope that helps.

More good tips, Bert. I was skeptical about the (my) paint removal idea, as the factory never had a problem with that paint. So, update: I am noticing (along with the usual CLICK) a squeaky squeeaaaaal when I turn the key to ON, applying 12v to the solenoid, like it's struggling to do something...

You mean the last 2 lines on Bert's post? Will have to get a test light.......no big deal.

Thanks, people. Am going to scrape down/sand down all the factory paint from the mower frame, and remount the solenoid. Will also try removing the spark plug, and crank. Cross your fingers.

OK, so heres what In got, based on following advice above- The blade safety switch plunger was not being depressed enough to activate the switch terminals and allow the voltage to flow to the solenoid. I tested the blade connector wire tip (tiny wire that energizes the solenoid) and was getting...

I found it- it is activated when the clutch is depressed all the way, and levers push down the pin/plunger on top to close the circuit, for starting (right?). I was unaware that this is called the neutral safety switch (Duhhhh). I tested this switch yesterday, not knowing it was a netrau switch...

MTD Model is 134A 667 F118, (mentioned post #27). Hope that helps. My diagram from the Tecumseh manual is sooo small, hard to tell what wires go where. EveN WITH A MAGNIFYING GLASS. Anyway, let me peek around for this switch, as you described. I am not quitting. PS: am am also trying to ohm...

UPDATE: So desperate now, I resorted to testing all safety switches, including the key switch. Used an ohmmeter. I tested the blade safety, the clutch safety, and the key switch. All 3 were good. Only one I could not find/test is the neutral safety switch. Where is it? There is a goofy thing...

I removed the plug, and engine turned over easily a bunch if times (where with plug in, engine turned only about 1/2 circle, and stopped). So, key switch is good, solenoid is good, and I guess starter is also good. Put the spark plug back in, and now nothing happens at all. Not even a jolt from...

Wow, I didnt think about that. Great idea! Like that, there will be much lower load on the starter. Will try that tomorrow!! Thanks to all here so far that have had so much patience with me. You guys are just plain great.

Right- after thinking about it in post #28 (2 posts above) since I mentioned that the engine turned a few time (although with a struggle) that should confirm the key switch is OK. I think I should take apart the starter. Thanks, Veg.

OK, I couldnt do all the suggested test on the so many above posts (its a lot of work), but so far I popped in the new solenoid, and V at battery now stands at 12.20V. It turned over a few times, then stopped. I couldnt take good V at the far side of the solenoid (it's hard to connect the 2...

MTD Model is 134A 667 F118, if that helps. There is just a float bowl under the carb. Ya know, I used starter fluid and still nothing must happened. Maybe I do need to dismantle the carb, and clean. Done it before on may mowers.........But 1st, get the engine to turn.

All this must be under the assumption that the key switch works, right? So far no one mentioned to suspect the key switch (I think). There are 5 wires going in there, in the clip/connector (hard to reach/check/see). I dont want to make this more confusing that need be, but I am not 100% sure the...

Well, that is great to know. I am expecting the solenoid delivery today.

Tecumseh OHV-130, based on my manual. 358cc. Engine model 206820B. Engine Family TTP 358U1 G2RA.

I did the check above, line 3 and 4, and the starter did not turn at all. Not even a crank/noise. But, I unbolted the 4 bolts from the starter, and bench tested it, and it turned with 12 V. Why??? Maybe brushes are worn but enough to turn WITHOUT a load, I dunno. Also, the test I did on the...

So even with a 12.45V reading a battery can still be undercharged? One thing I did not try is to actually jump the solenoid with a heavy wire, then try to jump starter. Have to try it tomorrow, as it is dark now. Thanks!

Got the battery back fro AZ and now showing 12.45V. So I tried starting with just the key switch, no luck/activity- zero. Then I checked for V at the R side of the solenoid with key ON, and no voltage at all, even with having had sanded all down to shiny brass. Then, last resort, tried jumping...

Wow, I sanded down the contacts on the solenoid, they were rusty. Then the mower turned over with just the key! No need to jump. But still, did not start. Buying some started fluid today, and having the battery charged at AZ. Plug is good, and does fire (I removed it, placed it against the...

People, 1998 MTD rider, with tecumseh engine, battery shows 12+ volts, but no start. So I tried bypassing the key switch and jumped it directly from the relay thingy (just under, in front of the seat) to the bolt/nut on the starter motor. I got it to turn but never started. tried started fluid...